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greedy
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been working on a buddy's rear wheel for a couple days now and have narrowed the problem down to the RWS. It is a 10mm composite skewer on a new I9 wheelset (6 mos. old). At first we thought the drag was break in, but I swapped a qr axle from another I9 hub and it spins perfect. It is on an Ibis Mojo sl. I've changed the cassette body along with the big freewheel bearing. It works wonderfully under any circumstances unless the 10mm axle and RWS are installed. All the parts for the RWS seem to be accounted for. I suspect that the problem is some capatibility issue between the skewer and the frame.

I've been dealing with I9 during this narrowing down process and will talk with them more Monday. I was just wondering if any of you guys have had this problem.

btw Industry Nine's customer service is amazing.
 

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Doesn't sound to me like you've fully isolated the RWS as the problem since you did a full axle swap too. Just throwing out possibilities, but it could be something related to the axle, such as bearing stops out of tolerance so that the hub shell and the axle bearing stop are pushing in opposite directions on the inner and outer races of one of the hub bearings and causing it to bind

Actually, maybe you are ahead of that. Does the drag happen before or after the RWS is tightened up in the frame?

Nothing better than a company being great with service after the sale though :thumbsup:
 

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greedy
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
boomn said:
Doesn't sound to me like you've fully isolated the RWS as the problem since you did a full axle swap too. Just throwing out possibilities, but it could be something related to the axle, such as bearing stops out of tolerance so that the hub shell and the axle bearing stop are pushing in opposite directions on the inner and outer races of one of the hub bearings and causing it to bind

Actually, maybe you are ahead of that. Does the drag happen before or after the RWS is tightened up in the frame?

Nothing better than a company being great with service after the sale though :thumbsup:
Thanks for the reply. I don't think that I mentioned it, but I've tried both axles in both cassette bodies, in both hub shells and the RWS axle combo is that only thing dragging. It only seems to drag after it is tightened up in the frame. I think that I may try it in my hardtail, which has a different dropout and different frame material (TransAM).
 

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meh....
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have2ride2day said:
It only seems to drag after it is tightened up in the frame.
unless the rws skewer is bent it's not the problem. it's a skewer. replace it in the "problem hub" with any other skewer that you can get as tight and it'll (the hub) most likely drag just like with the rws.
 

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This is troubling news! I just got a new set of I9's set-up for the 10mm. I haven't discovered this problem yet because I haven't started the build. BUT, I have found in the 3 minutes I took to play with it, that I couldn't get the RWS all the way through the axle. Tried going through both directions, but something near dead center seems to block it. Can't tell much visually looking through it. Perhaps a tiny lip in the axle from machining or something like that? Anyone else have this issue before discovering the drag issue? Again, haven't messed with it much, and I'll take it back to my LBS and let them REALLY try to force it, if that's what is needed.
 

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greedy
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, I think that I have found my problem after talking with I9 tech support this morning. Seems I overlooked some vital information in the technical manual:

"NOTE: Due to the preloading nature of 10 and 12 mm through-axle designs, it is recommended that these hubs be adjusted while installed on the bike."

I have not tried preloading the bearings with the wheel installed and the RWS tightened down, but if I had to bet on it right now, I would bet that this is my problem. I can't believe that after all that, 30 seconds and a small allen key would have solved this a week ago. Oh well, both sets of hubs needed to be cleaned and regreased anyway and I learned a lot about I9 hubs along the way.

I'll post up tonight if this works for me.
 

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greedy
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
rwitte said:
This is troubling news! I just got a new set of I9's set-up for the 10mm. I haven't discovered this problem yet because I haven't started the build. BUT, I have found in the 3 minutes I took to play with it, that I couldn't get the RWS all the way through the axle. Tried going through both directions, but something near dead center seems to block it. Can't tell much visually looking through it. Perhaps a tiny lip in the axle from machining or something like that? Anyone else have this issue before discovering the drag issue? Again, haven't messed with it much, and I'll take it back to my LBS and let them REALLY try to force it, if that's what is needed.
The RWS should slide right through. You or your LBS should call I9. They have been a wonderful help to me. It has been a breath of fresh air after dealing with so many customer service departments in the cycling industry today.
 

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greedy
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
customfab said:
that sounds right, due to that wimpy little set screw on the adjustment collar. I doubt it will hold the hubs adjustment with a RWS through bolt. I've been using the RWS through bolts on my 240s trouble free.
Actually the set screw is only intended to keep the dustcap from rotating or threading on the axle. The RWS would have to be able push the dustcap across is threads to have any effect on bearing preload. This has been entirely the mechanic's (my) fault.

I haven't had a chance to work on it anymore. I don't think that troubleshooting hubs is what my wife had in mind for Valentine's Day. Maybe tonight.
 

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I had this same problem using an RWS on an older Hugi dt 240 hub - which has no way to adjust preload. The wheel is now a trainer/backup wheel so i never tried to figure it out. I just use a regular skewer.

I have another wheel with a newer 240 and 10mm rws. I've got that mofo cranked down tight - no drag.
 

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have2ride2day said:
Actually the set screw is only intended to keep the dustcap from rotating or threading on the axle. The RWS would have to be able push the dustcap across is threads to have any effect on bearing preload. This has been entirely the mechanic's (my) fault.

I haven't had a chance to work on it anymore. I don't think that troubleshooting hubs is what my wife had in mind for Valentine's Day. Maybe tonight.
That's right, it's been a while since I've worked on an I9 hub, although the couple of customers I take care of that have them need them serviced pretty often.
 

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greedy
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482 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That fixed it. Although it is hard to get a good feel for bearing preload when the wheel is on the bike and the RWS is clamped down. It spins free, but now I'm afraid it is on the loose side. I'll just keep an eye on it over the next few weeks. :thumbsup:
 
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