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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the 2011 stumpjumper 29er SS and I recently did the 36tooth ratchet upgrade on my rear dt swiss 240s. My question/concern is this. With the original 18tooth ratchet in there I could lift the bike off the ground, pedal the bike real fast and let off the pedals and the wheel would free spin forever and the pedals would immediately stop while the wheel was free spinning.

After I did the 36 tooth upgrade, if I hold the bike off the ground and pedal it really fast then let go of the pedals, the pedals will continue spinning and you can't hardly hear the rear hub anymore unless I grab the pedals to stop them from rotating then the hub gets really loud like it did when it had the original 18 tooth ratchet in it.

I'm not sure if this is even an issue, or if the pedals are suppose to keep rotating when i stop pedaling them by hand? It's not like it's acting like a fixed gear bike, it just doesn't seem right?

My friend just had his converted to SS and came to show me how loud his white industries hub is, he picked the back tire off the ground, reached down with his hand and started pedaling, let off and the hub instantly started screaming and the pedals were dead still. This is what concerns me about mine, because if I pick my rear tire up and reach down by hand to start pedaling, then let go of the pedals, my pedals will keep rotating and the hub doesn't start doing it's "scream" until i reach down and stop the pedals from spinning.

Is this an issue? It just doesn't seem right to me...any advice/opinions welcome.
 

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Sounds like you need some DT swiss red grease in there. I could make jokes about how expensive it is, but it's actually not funny :( msrp is similar to the street value of crack I've heard.

After a fresh repack my 36T drags a little but won't start turning the pedals until the very very last rotation. Then after the grease distributes it drags very very little and finally it starts dragging more when it needs a repack.

Did you install it? What grease if any was used? Your chain tension is severely tight is it?

oh here's a crappy vid I made, I think it had some miles on this rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
They used some type of oil. I'm not sure what kind it was, but it's highly recommended and used by a lot of shops.

Should I re-do with the dtswiss grease? That's what i've been reading everywhere is to use the dtswiss grease with these hubs.

If so, how do I properly clean out all of the oil and repack with the dtswiss grease?
 

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yes, if you like your warranty and a properly working hub, buy the grease. I got some from amazon. clean it with some degreaser, lightly wipe out the area near the cartridge bearing in the hub. you don't want to penetrate the seals of the bearing with degreaser. simple green would even work. OR take it back to the shop and tell them how they effed up, probably the best approach in case the ratchet is effed.

But you need to learn how to do the service yourself b/c it will need it often. takes 5 mins.
 

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Too much grease on the teeth around the circumference, too much grease in the spring, and/or too thick a grease can cause the ratchets to not properly disengage from each other, which will cause it to not freewheel properly. If you don't correct that problem it will likely wear the edges of the ratchet teeth down till the hub no longer engages properly.

There have been a few threads in the wheels and tires forum on grease alternatives with many good suggestions. Some comments even came second-hand from DT Swiss that alternatives are fine just make sure they are fully synthetic. The special DT grease is pretty thick but apparently quite slick (in fact, some people have found it to be too thick and had problems when it "stiffens" in colder weather and stops disengaging properly). You'll still have to be careful about the amount of grease you use even if you use the proper stuff

Personally I've stuck to a thinner synthetic homebrew mix in my DT 240, though it does require relubing a little more often than a thicker grease. I use Pedros Bio Grease thinned with synthetic motor oil and it has worked very well for over a year with my 36t upgrade
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Good info, thanks to everybody who has this handful of knowledge!

So cleaning it out, just pop it off the same way I did originally, take out the ratchets and springs, and just spray some degreaser or simple green in there? Not too much obviously? Don't wipe it down in there with a qtip or anything? Let it air dry? Just spray the simple green in there a little and maybe sit it upside down so the rest of the degreaser will drip out?

Also, when applying the new dt swiss grease, I apply it to the ratchets only correct? Do I apply it on top of the teeth and on the sides as well? Just a tad bit?

Sorry, i'm not very knowledgeable about a rear hub, first time to mess with one. I want to do it right and I want to do it myself so I can work on it in the future and do maintenance and cleaning on it as I like to take great care of my stuff and make it last.

Somebody should make a step by step on removing, cleaning everything off, and re-installing. :) but then again, who has that kind of time huh ;)
 

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nmanchin said:
Sounds like you need some DT swiss red grease in there. I could make jokes about how expensive it is, but it's actually not funny :( msrp is similar to the street value of crack I've heard.

After a fresh repack my 36T drags a little but won't start turning the pedals until the very very last rotation. Then after the grease distributes it drags very very little and finally it starts dragging more when it needs a repack.

Did you install it? What grease if any was used? Your chain tension is severely tight is it?

oh here's a crappy vid I made, I think it had some miles on this rebuild.
I need you to show me the process on sunday
 

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I think it would be better not to spray, but to wipe with rags or shop towels. The hub and freehub bearings are right behind the springs on either side and though they're sealed I personally feel better not spraying degreaser at them.

The sliding teeth around the edges are very important to lube, as both ratchets need to be able to slide in and out very easily so it always properly disengages from the other ratchet and so they doesn't resist against the spring and slowly or only partially engage. Spread some of the DT grease in each gap around the edge but don't fill it. My best guess would be to have the gap 1/3-1/2 full of grease before you slide it in, but that's just a guess. When you slide them into the hub you can help speed up the process of distributing the grease by pushing each ratchet in and out close to the the full distance they can move, which is more movement than they should see during normal operation anyway

The ratchet teeth definitely need grease too. Wipe grease around the ratchet faces so there is a film everywhere and a small deposit next to each tooth and you should be good. The amount of grease on the ratchet faces doesn't affect the engagement function as much, you just need it for lubrication from the metal to metal contact and enough that you don't run out of this lubrication too soon
 

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Surfdog93 said:
Excuse my ignorance, but what improvement do you expect from this modification and how does it apply to "general" riding ?
Is there a drawback ?
The hub engages quicker, which means that when you are coasting or backpedaling and then start pedaling, the hub moves through fewer degrees of rotation of free movement before the drive mechanism catches and your pedaling actually starts powering the bike forward. Since engagement is a property of the hub, your gear ratio multiplies it and changes how much you feel it in the crank. The lower your gear ratio the more your crank moves before the hub engages, and below 1:1 your crank has more free movement than the hub does. The higher your gear ratio the smaller the delay.

In my experience, it matters most for technical climbs in granny gears, matters less technical climbs in the type of gear ratio that most SS bikes use, and doesn't really matter at all if trails aren't technical and you can just keep pedaling uninterrupted most of the time. I have the DT 36t upgrade on my main trail bike and it was a nice upgrade for how I use that bike, but my "cross" bike has a 12pt hub (which is generally considered extremely poor engagement) and I've never noticed a problem at all even when I try to focus on it while riding
 

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boomn said:
The hub engages quicker, which means that when you are coasting or backpedaling and then start pedaling, the hub moves through fewer degrees of rotation of free movement before the drive mechanism catches and your pedaling actually starts powering the bike forward. Since engagement is a property of the hub, your gear ratio multiplies it and changes how much you feel it in the crank. The lower your gear ratio the more your crank moves before the hub engages, and below 1:1 your crank has more free movement than the hub does. The higher your gear ratio the smaller the delay.

In my experience, it matters most for technical climbs in granny gears, matters less technical climbs in the type of gear ratio that most SS bikes use, and doesn't really matter at all if trails aren't technical and you can just keep pedaling uninterrupted most of the time. I have the DT 36t upgrade on my main trail bike and it was a nice upgrade for how I use that bike, but my "cross" bike has a 12pt hub (which is generally considered extremely poor engagement) and I've never noticed a problem at all even when I try to focus on it while riding
Thanks Boomn,
I had remembered quicker engagement, but did not really know how it would apply
 
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