DT RWS 9mm Thru Axel Conversion: Worth it?

Jeez, be careful or the Search Engine Police will arrest you!

Here's one thread I was following myself:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=506898&highlight=hope+conversion

I just ordered/received my second setup. First on DT 's, second on Hopes. I feel that it stiffens up the older Reba's a bit

Yea its worth it, I did this conversion on my hope's and it made my reba and whole front end seem stiffer and more able to point and shoot in the intended direction.Not sure about the ease of switching DT hubs but the Hope's were a 5 minute conversion.

DT Swiss hubs are equally simply to convert. Got to say it is a worthy upgrade in my eyes over your standard quick release... if you have a wheel that can easily be converted.

Will these work on any brand hub with standard 9mm QR's (Shimano Deore) or just on DT Swiss?

dragbike said:

Will these work on any brand hub with standard 9mm QR's (Shimano Deore) or just on DT Swiss?

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I think only Hope & DT Swiss make the adapters to make it happen.

I use the 9mm RWS on my '09 Reba with a DT 240s hub and I like it. I'd still prefer a TA, but it does better than a standard QR skewer.

juansevo said:

Well I learned of this option a few weeks back and well do feel my front end could use some more steering precision (using a 2009 Reba). I have DT Swiss 240 Hubs so learning I could do this 9mm thru axel QR upgrade sparked my attention a bit. Any thoughts? ease of conversion? etc??

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Through BOLT, not through axle. totally different animal.

IME with standard hubs/forks the diameter of the hub axle end cap makes more difference than how the hub is held into the fork.

dragbike said:

Will these work on any brand hub with standard 9mm QR's (Shimano Deore) or just on DT Swiss?

Click to expand...

Few QR hubs are convertible to through bolt. The through bolt skewer replaces the axle (or at least the 9mm axle stubs),

Specialized Stout hubs are still floating around that use the system too. I ordered one of these...it's not here yet though. That seller has another one listed right now...or did earlier today.

Industry 9 also has a 9mm through bolt option.

I think a similar outcome could be achieved with a Shimano Deore hub by converting it to bolt-on.

Yes, there is a difference. Is it worth the price of admission? I dunno. I tend to think so, so I gravitate towards equipment that can be converted to thru hardware even if it isn't set that way initially. It isn't as noticeable as the jump from qr to 20mm, but there is less waggle out of the forks none the less.

I just converted my 240s to thru bolt for my Intense 5.5 Haven't given it a full test yet but initial parking lot ride leads me to believe that its definitely worth it. Immediately noticeable on the front

shiggy said:

Through BOLT, not through axle. totally different animal.

IME with standard hubs/forks the diameter of the hub axle end cap makes more difference than how the hub is held into the fork.

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Shiggy, sorry for the question, have tried to get a straight answer other places.

Is thru bolt more secure than QR? If so, is it significant?

I built two DT 240s (one for the gears, one SS) using the oversize 240. I went w/ that hub for the option to run them anyway I want-QR, thru bolt, and thru axle.

I really like the thru bolt. I just put a 2010 reba on the SS and didn't go thru axle since I was so happy w/ the thru bolt.

Where is this going? They are expensive, not as easy to remove and still worth using. Run em if you can.
Now, on the rear? Never tried it on my hardtails. Seems like a wasted application.

Now on the other hand- I just built a few rental bikes for the shop I work w/. These low end bikes had a RockShox Dart on the front (26"). Using the non real test of pinching the F wheel between my knees and twisitng the bars- the Dart set up is WAY stiffer than a quick comparison w/ Fox QR15 bikes. WTF? I was surprised too. Not sure what that's all about. Just putting it out there.

Can someone please explain how the 9mm helps with stiffness??
No, I am not trying to be a smartass.
I honestly want to know.
When I look at the pics of a standard QR hub the 9mm axle is the same size as the small section of aluminium that the drop out usually sits on and that the 5mm skewer threads through. Given that the size of the end nut on your skewer is unchanged and that the 9mm skewer is the same size as that section of aluminium I do not understand where the additional stiffness actually comes from.

I noticed improvement

juansevo said:

Well I learned of this option a few weeks back and well do feel my front end could use some more steering precision (using a 2009 Reba). I have DT Swiss 240 Hubs so learning I could do this 9mm thru axel QR upgrade sparked my attention a bit. Any thoughts? ease of conversion? etc??

Click to expand...

When i installed one using a 240 hub and a 07 reba, The installs very easy. You pop off the qr endcaps and install the ones supplied wit the larger ID to acommodate the larger 9 mm and then install the thru bolt axle and rachet. Its a nice upgrade and the improvement is noticable.

I've run QR, 9mm and 20mm. Improvement from QR to 9mm was slight, though it did help. Improvement with 20mm is no comparison. Unless you race or do time trials, I'd go 20mm if you are running a bigger suspension 29'er bike. Just my experience, YMMV.

TR said:

Can someone please explain how the 9mm helps with stiffness??
No, I am not trying to be a smartass.
I honestly want to know.
When I look at the pics of a standard QR hub the 9mm axle is the same size as the small section of aluminium that the drop out usually sits on and that the 5mm skewer threads through. Given that the size of the end nut on your skewer is unchanged and that the 9mm skewer is the same size as that section of aluminium I do not understand where the additional stiffness actually comes from.

Click to expand...

Not sure I can clarify any of it w/ my drivel but...
The QR end "caps" and the hub caps are the same size between a Thru Bolt (not to be confused w/ a thru axle) and a standard QR. I think the stiffness comes between the greater clamping force and the larger axle.

The force they are trying to eliminate is the twisting of the legs (as described to me by a fork designer). If you hold your arms our like fork legs and rotate your hands as if you were using screwdrivers in each hand- this is sorta like the legs twist they are trying to prevent.

So w/ the larger axle the gap between the axle and drop out is reduced to pretty much none and the greater clamping force it reduces this fork twist. Ehhhh is this clearer or did I dream this debris up?.
And as listed above the thru axle (20mm or 15mm) goes alot further to reduce this same twisting.

I guess added benefits of either system (and stiffer fork arches) is to keep each legs' progress up and down the stanchion the same as well.

Johnny Chicken Bones said:

Now on the other hand- I just built a few rental bikes for the shop I work w/. These low end bikes had a RockShox Dart on the front (26"). Using the non real test of pinching the F wheel between my knees and twisitng the bars- the Dart set up is WAY stiffer than a quick comparison w/ Fox QR15 bikes. WTF? I was surprised too. Not sure what that's all about. Just putting it out there.

Click to expand...

Amazing what a little bit of mass buys you
The non-hollow crown and steel stancions are stiffer. Almost worth doing a frankenfork with Dart or tora uppers, reba lowers, and reba internals :thumbsup:
Getting off topic though...

RandyBoy said:

I've run QR, 9mm and 20mm. Improvement from QR to 9mm was slight, though it did help. Improvement with 20mm is no comparison. Unless you race or do time trials, I'd go 20mm if you are running a bigger suspension 29'er bike. Just my experience, YMMV.

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fair enough. but if, like me, you can't afford a new 20mm fork, the 9mm upgrade on my hope hub on my inbred has been great...front end feels just that bit more solid and every bit helps.

i'm really glad i did it.

my tuppence worth.

For my 08 Sultan w/ 120 mm Fox, the 9mm axle was a big improvement.