Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know there are a few of you on here running drops off road. I just did my first off-road ride on drops last weekend and it was fun. However, I notice that on decents my wrists start to complain. I like where my bars are now for flats and climbing and was thinking i might just add some interrupter levers on the tops of the bars for decents. Is anyone else running their drops this way. If so how do you like it. I am not 100% sure I'll like haveing my hands that close together on decents either. That's why I am asking.
 

·
Mantis, Paramount, Campy
Joined
·
4,754 Posts
Love It On My Cyclocross Bike

I have never set up a drop bar MTB that way but I love the levers on the flat section on my 'cross bike. They are a tad narrow but I run narrow bars on my MTBs generally so it isn't too different.

If I was running bar end shifters or STI I don't think they would be as uesful. However I run Ergo levers and when decending with my hands on the hoods the jarring usually results in my hand slipping and hitting the downshift button.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,696 Posts
Luther said:
I know there are a few of you on here running drops off road. I just did my first off-road ride on drops last weekend and it was fun. However, I notice that on decents my wrists start to complain. I like where my bars are now for flats and climbing and was thinking i might just add some interrupter levers on the tops of the bars for decents. Is anyone else running their drops this way. If so how do you like it. I am not 100% sure I'll like haveing my hands that close together on decents either. That's why I am asking.
Without seeing your set up, I would guess you need to raise your bars. Usually the tops level with the saddle is a good starting point. Get it situated so that your drops are in the same position as a flat bar would put you in. This way you wont want the interrupter CX levers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,079 Posts
The 'cross type of levers mounted on the tops are okay for general riding and for 'cross dismounts. However, if, as you are describing, you want to ride on the tops for descents, I don't think you want to be on the tops of the bars. The hand position is just too narrow to have any leverage on the bars. Your control over the bike will be compromised.

If your wrists are complaining, I would first try to rotate the bars up or down - depending on where they are now to a position that your wrists like.

What bars are you running?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,991 Posts
Luther said:
I know there are a few of you on here running drops off road. I just did my first off-road ride on drops last weekend and it was fun. However, I notice that on decents my wrists start to complain. I like where my bars are now for flats and climbing and was thinking i might just add some interrupter levers on the tops of the bars for decents. Is anyone else running their drops this way. If so how do you like it. I am not 100% sure I'll like haveing my hands that close together on decents either. That's why I am asking.
I've used them on my CX bike, never on a MTB. I actually like them quite a bit, and use them on rough off-road section. There's two types: one mounts on the "bulge" and one further out. I like the ones that mount outside the bulge as it gives me a wider grasp on the bar. I run 46cm bars, and can ride with my hands near the outside of the bar, which is wide enough for me.
 

·
slower than you
Joined
·
1,398 Posts
ive run drops on several mountain and cross bikes over the years... currently have wtb dirtdrops installed on my rocklobster singlespeed and a surly crosscheck. i have never used interrupters, for the reasons mentioned above... but, if your wrists are uncomfortable in the braking position, as mentioned, reposition the bars... ideally, imho, the bar ends should be angled slightly downward, pointed towards the axel on the rear hub, so that the hooks are a little more ergonomically positioned for your hands. it's also a good idea to play with brake lever position... too low or too high can induce a great deal of hand fatigue when braking longterm... best to ride around with naked bars for a few hours to find the sweet spot before taping the bars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,696 Posts
rockychrysler said:
best to ride around with naked bars for a few hours to find the sweet spot before taping the bars.
Yes, thats the best way to get it all situated perfectly prior to wrapping.

I also like my WTB bars pointed down a bit, it gives your hand a flatter part of the hook to rest on while hitting bumps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Rumpfy said:
I guess this is where we ask for a picture to see the position of your set up...I think that'll help.
I'll try to get some photos up later. The bike is a stock Rock Combo with the Specialized Branded dirt drops. The top of the bars is about an inch lower than the seat so I guess I need to look for a stem with some serious rise for this bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Luther said:
I'll try to get some photos up later. The bike is a stock Rock Combo with the Specialized Branded dirt drops. The top of the bars is about an inch lower than the seat so I guess I need to look for a stem with some serious rise for this bike.
Luther, you may want to try
this stem. (I have no affiliation with the seller beyond being a customer.) They usually offer "long" and "extra-long" quills - check back and both varieties should be back within a day or so. I put one on my RockCombo and had no problem bringing the bars up to saddle level. I sanded the black finish off mine, and while it's no Nitto Pearl, it does look okay. The Nitto Periscopa in the Rivendell catalog also looks nice.

...Then again, I'm using these on 25.4 mm WTB drops, and the Specialized BB-1 may be 26.0 mm in diameter...

- jonathan
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top