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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since some of us jumped on the recent Drake deal, thought I would start a thread so we can see what air pressure others are running.

At 200 lbs, I was surprised to find the stock setup of 20 lbs just about perfect. Similar to my R7, I've found that I prefer a little lighter psi and close the abs (tpc on r7) a couple of clicks.

I was prepared to have to order a firmer ride kit. I imagine it will loosen up when it breaks in and I'll have to up the pressure some.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
mullen119 said:
Im 155lbs and run mine at 45psi. I also removed 2 shims from the high speed compression stack and run 4 clicks of low speed in most situations.
After seeing your post, I thought I should check my psi to make sure it didn't come with more than 20psi. Then I saw where a 165lb person (TiCain) only runs 10psi. http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=682606&page=2

I guess differences between frames/setup could explain some differences, but 45psi seems high for your weight. What year is it? Could they have changed springs for the '10's?

What effect does removing some shims have?

Thanks
 

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rlouder said:
After seeing your post, I thought I should check my psi to make sure it didn't come with more than 20psi. Then I saw where a 165lb person (TiCain) only runs 10psi. http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=682606&page=2

I guess differences between frames/setup could explain some differences, but 45psi seems high for your weight. What year is it? Could they have changed springs for the '10's?

What effect does removing some shims have?

Thanks
My drake is a 2010. To get proper sag, I need 30 psi. I ride very aggressively though and run 45 to help with bottoming. running the extra 15 psi has not really effected small bump compliance, so it works well for me.

removing shims allows the high speed compression to open with less force. being fairly light, I found the HSC would not open without a big spike. removing the 2 shims allows me to run more low speed compression without feeling that spike. heavy riders might find the HSC opening to easily and may need to add shims for the opposite reason.
 

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I just got one of these drakes, first air/coil so a bit clueless on it's setup. I have the sag about 3/4" but it rides.. like a spring - bouncy bouncy. Very annoying. I have it at about 30 psi, I think I'll bump it up a bit. How do I setup the spring (bottom dial) and the lockout has a bunch of clicks. I assume it's one of those ride and tweak thing but any info much appreciated.. Thanks
 

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The bottom dial should be the rebound, turn it a couple of clicks from the softest setting.

The lockout isn't a lockout, it's the low-speed compression tuning (although at full turn it is a low-speed "lock-out"). I run mine full open most of the time, but with a couple of clicks on it won't dive so easily on the brakes (but still blow open for high-speed hits).

It shouldn't be bouncy at any rate, they're pretty well damped. If the sag is right i wouldn't bump more air in, that certainly isn't going to fix your issue.
 

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BrandonMiller said:
I just got one of these drakes, first air/coil so a bit clueless on it's setup. I have the sag about 3/4" but it rides.. like a spring - bouncy bouncy. Very annoying. I have it at about 30 psi, I think I'll bump it up a bit. How do I setup the spring (bottom dial) and the lockout has a bunch of clicks. I assume it's one of those ride and tweak thing but any info much appreciated.. Thanks
As said, The blue knob at the bottom of the fork leg rebound. There are no clicks, just close it a little at a time until the bouncy feeling is gone. It only turns about 1/2 a turn so dont turn it to much to fast.

The red lever is low speed compression. The more you turn it, the more the fork will resist movement at low shaft speeds. Some people associate low speed compression with riding at low speed, but this is incorrect. Low speed compression is about how fast the fork compresses. When you pull your front brake, or hit a small bump, the fork compresses pretty slowly. The more LSC you run, the more the fork will resist moving over those small hits. There is a internal shim stack(high speed compression) that allows the fork to move freely over higher shaft speeds like bigger rocks, roots, or drop offs. When you run the LSC all the way closed(locked out), you are running on the HSC only. If you push down hard on the fork, you will feel it slightly move and hear the oil flowing.

The idea of LSC is to find a setting that keeps pedal bob and brake dive to a minimum, yet still absorb the trail, keeping you from having to reach for the lock out all the time. My signature is a link to a thread I made about how to custom tune your HSC shim stack and make the most out of your forks damper.

The coil spring is not adjustable without changing the spring its self. The only spring adjustments is the air pressure. Set it up to get 25% sag and then adjust based on if you feel it is over or under sprung. Manitou says 0-50 psi is the range, yet they also said 0-100 in a different manual.

Hope that helps!
 

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dundundata said:
I don't want to hijack this thread but how do you think this fork compares to the R7?
The R7 is more of a XC race fork and the Drake/Minute expert are more of a trail/light AM fork. They use the same damper(with different HSC shim stack). The biggest differences is that the R7 is a straight air fork that has 30mm stanchion tubes. The other Manitou forks have 32mm stanchion tubes. So the R7 will be a little more flexy in high stress situation like rock gardens and fast turns. The R7 weighs about a pound less then the Minute expert, so if your looking to save weight the R7 is a great choice.

Look for a Manitou Marvel as well, Its essentailly a 32mm stanchion tubed R7 with a new air spring called ISO(its new so I know nothing about it). its about the same weight as the R7 as well.
 

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mullen119 said:
The R7 is more of a XC race fork and the Drake/Minute expert are more of a trail/light AM fork. They use the same damper(with different HSC shim stack). The biggest differences is that the R7 is a straight air fork that has 30mm stanchion tubes. The other Manitou forks have 32mm stanchion tubes. So the R7 will be a little more flexy in high stress situation like rock gardens and fast turns. The R7 weighs about a pound less then the Minute expert, so if your looking to save weight the R7 is a great choice.

Look for a Manitou Marvel as well, Its essentailly a 32mm stanchion tubed R7 with a new air spring called ISO(its new so I know nothing about it). its about the same weight as the R7 as well.
Or the best of both worlds!

I have an '08 Minute MRD, which has no coil spring but has 32mm stanchions (it is "noble air", not mars). It weighed in at 1495g with an uncut steerer for a 130mm QR fork. I've now upgraded it to ABS+ and a 20mm thru-axle. God i love this fork for heavy xc, and it was an utter bargain. :)

I've ridden later model forks and they aren't noticeably more supple. Also, mine is a gulf racing blue (or ocean blue as manitou calls it). :p
 

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Cubits said:
Or the best of both worlds!

I have an '08 Minute MRD, which has no coil spring but has 32mm stanchions (it is "noble air", not mars). It weighed in at 1495g with an uncut steerer for a 130mm QR fork. I've now upgraded it to ABS+ and a 20mm thru-axle. God i love this fork for heavy xc, and it was an utter bargain. :)

I've ridden later model forks and they aren't noticeably more supple. Also, mine is a gulf racing blue (or ocean blue as manitou calls it). :p
I wish they still made a Minute MRD. Sales on them must have been low or else they wound have kept it around.
 
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