The smart money would be to call the manufacturer and ask them what is the standard they set that fork up for. But I'm sure some one on here owns or has owned that fork.
Pikes with no adapter are 180. If you check your adapter it'll say something like "180 to 203 PM" and it'll be about 11mm thick.
You'll never in a million years notice that weight savings, but you'll definitely notice a lack of braking power! I wouldnt do it unless you're specifically having a problem with the front end locking up.
Pikes with no adapter are 180. If you check your adapter it'll say something like "180 to 203 PM" and it'll be about 11mm thick.
You'll never in a million years notice that weight savings, but you'll definitely notice a lack of braking power! I wouldnt do it unless you're specifically having a problem with the front end locking up.
I would have no qualms going to 180. But I really haven't ever lacked braking power as long as everything was working properly. If anything, I had brakes that were too grabby, and bigger rotors could exacerbate that.
I could understand doing this with shimano brakes, but with guides...? Tweaking the lever reach and/or pad compound is plenty to adjust the feel, without crippling performance. I'm curious about OP's reasoning.
You may or may not need new bolts. It's easy to check (remove the adapter and see if you bottom out), and every shop i've worked at would be happy to give you the correct size if necessary. They accumulate them because nobody downgrades rotors.
I’m curious as well as to the rationale for the downgrade. Having 180s front and rear on all my bikes, I have been suffering from acute rotor envy for some time now.
Took the bike to LBS where they changed the caliper. Still looked the same so took it back for a re-check but was told that it's fine as it is. So I am able to align the caliper so that it does not rub (pain in the ass tho because pistons are so uneven) when driving straight, but on uphills or tight curves it still rubs a bit. LBS also told that switching to smaller rotor would probably fix the mentioned rub as smaller rotor would warp less under stress.
Current rotor is almost dead straight - would probably bend it more if tried to fix
To me, that caliper does not look 100% OK and in the other thread OP got new one from SRAM under warranty.
Have already resetted the pistons multiple times and still the inner side pistons move out much more while not retracting much. Outer side pistons barely move.
As far as step 5, tread carefully. There's a fine line between piston out enough to clean thoroughly and piston on the floor, and it's about one lever squeeze.
I imagine there's a few folks around here that can vouch for that.
Yep. Done it myself a few times. It's an annoyance but no biggie. Usually you can just push it back it but if it does fall out completely it gives you an opportunity to really clean the piston and wipe out the bore with a lint-free wiper. Stick it back in and bleed.
My Guide T's did the same damn thing on 180mm rotors. One side of the calipers pistons would advance further out then the other side. No matter what I did, they always wound up like that. Got rid of those POS's and got a set of Magura Sport Trails. Best $250 I've spent on the bike.
Yeah, figured that out too. Actually got the sticky side pistons moving more now - my Topeak powerlink pliers were just the "right" tool to hold other side in place while pumping the lever Much better situation now based on this days ride.
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