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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
But if I could change one thing, I would change the Head Tube angle to 71 or 72. I use it mostly for X-country, and love it because it fits me and rides well. (I am 6'6 and ride a sasquatch) I don't love the slow turning. I have owned it about 6 months now. I was thinking about when the warranty runs out, having the headtube angle changed by a custom builder. What do you guys think?
 

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I think that you should buy an adjustable fork and lower the travel. 71 or 72 is way steep for a 5" travel bike.

Experiment with different axle to crown lengths with the adjustable fork instead- same effect and more easily switched up later.

shammac said:
But if I could change one thing, I would change the Head Tube angle to 71 or 72. I use it mostly for X-country, and love it because it fits me and rides well. (I am 6'6 and ride a sasquatch) I don't love the slow turning. I have owned it about 6 months now. I was thinking about when the warranty runs out, having the headtube angle changed by a custom builder. What do you guys think?
 

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That would have been a good post for April Fools, but that was four weeks ago, so maybe you're serious? How exactly would a custom builder change the head tube angle?
 

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miles e said:
That would have been a good post for April Fools, but that was four weeks ago, so maybe you're serious? How exactly would a custom builder change the head tube angle?
In theory, removing a small amount of material from the bottom frame rail while leaving the top tube in tact would do this, right?

That being said it seems like a really crazy idea to me and before I started chopping a 5 spot frame up, I'd sell it and get something more XC oriented.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Jdub said:
In theory, removing a small amount of material from the bottom frame rail while leaving the top tube in tact would do this, right?

That being said it seems like a really crazy idea to me and before I started chopping a 5 spot frame up, I'd sell it and get something more XC oriented.
No other bike fits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
miles e said:
That would have been a good post for April Fools, but that was four weeks ago, so maybe you're serious? How exactly would a custom builder change the head tube angle?
I'm not real sure how, but I had one tell me he could do it.
 

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Jdub said:
In theory, removing a small amount of material from the bottom frame rail while leaving the top tube in tact would do this, right?

That being said it seems like a really crazy idea to me and before I started chopping a 5 spot frame up, I'd sell it and get something more XC oriented.
I wondered if that's what he had in mind, but generally you expect a 1 degree change in head angle with a 1" change in axel to crown length. I don't know that it's possible to take anything off the bottom of the head tube, but two or three inches would certainly be out of the question.

Changing the A2C via the fork is the only option I see. If he doesn't want to lose the travel, it might be worth looking into a longer travel fork with an intrinsically low A2C for it's travel (Nixon, DUC32) and running it at reduced travel.
 

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I agree with BX40. Get a shorter fork, or better yet, something like a Talas where you can dial in the nervousness you desire. Make sure you run as little sag in back as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I went to the fisher web site

bikerx40 said:
I think that you should buy an adjustable fork and lower the travel. 71 or 72 is way steep for a 5" travel bike.

Experiment with different axle to crown lengths with the adjustable fork instead- same effect and more easily switched up later.
because I had a cake before this, and was very happy with the way it turned. It had a 70.5.

If I were to go with another shock, what options would I have with out going to a Rockshox.(I HATE Rockshox!)
 

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you do have a few good options if you want to quicken up the steering:

1. check you suspension and make sure you're not running too much sag in back, causing the bike to "squat". Maybe you just need to add preload to the back and remove it from the front. Make sure your rebound damping in back is not too slow, this also can cause squat.
2. put on a fork with a shorther a2c measurement. A fox Talus would probably be ideal so that you can experiment. What fork are you running now?
3. run a longer stem and move your saddle forward. This will "quicken up" your steering and improve climbing, without actually changing your fit too much.
.

As for having your head angle changed, not a good idea at all! The only viable option would be too face the bottom and take off 5mm or so, but that's not going to help much and could really cause problems with fork/frame interference or frame strength if the head tube is butted.

Lastly, consider the reason nobody makes a 5+5" bike with a 72d head angle: at full fork compression, you head angle would be about 77d. Endo city!

shammac said:
But if I could change one thing, I would change the Head Tube angle to 71 or 72. I use it mostly for X-country, and love it because it fits me and rides well. (I am 6'6 and ride a sasquatch) I don't love the slow turning. I have owned it about 6 months now. I was thinking about when the warranty runs out, having the headtube angle changed by a custom builder. What do you guys think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
right now I have a MX pro 120mm (nm)

FM said:
you do have a few good options if you want to quicken up the steering:

1. check you suspension and make sure you're not running too much sag in back, causing the bike to "squat". Maybe you just need to add preload to the back and remove it from the front. Make sure your rebound damping in back is not too slow, this also can cause squat.
2. put on a fork with a shorther a2c measurement. A fox Talus would probably be ideal so that you can experiment. What fork are you running now?
3. run a longer stem and move your saddle forward. This will "quicken up" your steering and improve climbing, without actually changing your fit too much.
.

As for having your head angle changed, not a good idea at all! The only viable option would be too face the bottom and take off 5mm or so, but that's not going to help much and could really cause problems with fork/frame interference or frame strength if the head tube is butted.

Lastly, consider the reason nobody makes a 5+5" bike with a 72d head angle: at full fork compression, you head angle would be about 77d. Endo city!
NM, NM, NM, NM
 

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shammac said:
because I had a cake before this, and was very happy with the way it turned. It had a 70.5.

If I were to go with another shock, what options would I have with out going to a Rockshox.(I HATE Rockshox!)
I just viewed your profile and notice that you list Marzocchi under bike setup; you're not running a Z1, are you? If so your HTA is already closer to 68 degrees, so changing to a Vanilla would bring it back to 69.

Edit: Since you're on the MX you're already pretty low on the A2C spectrum of forks. Time to check your suspension and cockpit setup like the others have said.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
mx pro 120 (nm)

miles e said:
I just viewed your profile and notice that you list Marzocchi under bike setup; you're not running a Z1, are you? If so your HTA is already closer to 68 degrees, so changing to a Vanilla would bring it back to 69.
.......................
 

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shammac said:
NM, NM, NM, NM
Yeah shorter A/C fork would probably help quite a bit. The Fox Forks seem to have shorter A/C lengths than Zokes in a general sense, so the TALAS would probably be a good option.

I run a TALAS and I can change my non-Turner HA from 68.5 to 71 dialing between the two extremes of 90mm & 130mm. Really makes for a versatile ride.
 

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Change

The Spot has a 69 H-A. Going to a 70 on a 5" bike is reasonable assuming you are never getting behind the seat for any steep trail riding. If you do any technical riding the higher BB needed to use 5" of travel combined with the shortening of the front fork say, 3.5" of available travel will make the bike feel pretty unstable and wanting to flip. A 71 seems outrageous for a bike of that nature. Part of the slow steering feel you have is due to the overall large bike. You are 6'6" and the top tube length you need to fit has to be huge! That is going to make for a truck in the woods regardless of the H-A. Depending on how you use the bike should be carefully considered before sending it out for serious mods and re-heattreatment.

DT
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the advice everyone........

turnerbikes said:
The Spot has a 69 H-A. Going to a 70 on a 5" bike is reasonable assuming you are never getting behind the seat for any steep trail riding. If you do any technical riding the higher BB needed to use 5" of travel combined with the shortening of the front fork say, 3.5" of available travel will make the bike feel pretty unstable and wanting to flip. A 71 seems outrageous for a bike of that nature. Part of the slow steering feel you have is due to the overall large bike. You are 6'6" and the top tube length you need to fit has to be huge! That is going to make for a truck in the woods regardless of the H-A. Depending on how you use the bike should be carefully considered before sending it out for serious mods and re-heattreatment.

DT
After reading what everyone has to say, I think I will try a Fox Talas (90-130). Sounds like a good way to dial it in, or learn just to be happy. Comparing it to my cake, I love the way the spot rides, and would never go back. (not to mention I couldn't stop breaking cakes). If it ends up just being that the bike is longer, and therefore turns slower, I can learn to deal with it, b/c it is MUCH better to finally have a bike that fits.

Thanks again for all of the advice...........Shane
 

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tscheezy said:
He should have roughly a 69 right now with the ~495mm A-C of the MX. I would suggest a SID World Cup, and don't put any air in it. ;)
Yep that is basically the same A-C of the TALAS, although I do believe that the TALAS A-C is measured in 130mm mode. Dropping 40mm of travel, would get you to the 460mm range, but probably not a big enough impact to warrant buying a TALAS.
 

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'04 Ventana X-5

Call Ventana and see if they have any '04 X-5s in your size. The 04's had a 70.5 HA with a Marz 120mm fork. Put a Fox on it and it will go to 71+. Sherwood (the man behind Ventana) is really easy to talk to. If you want to spend the $$$$ you can go custom and have Sherwood make a bike exact to your specifications.

If you consider the Horst on your Spot the most important part of the bike, Ventana's seat-stay pivot might not make you happy.

I know exactly what you're talking about with regards to HA. My Salty with a 100mm Float has around a 70.5 HA and works great on trails like Clear Springs..

I wouldn't get your Spot chopped up.

op (Brian)
 

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shammac said:
No other bike fits.
You could sell it and have Ventana build you a custom frame. It wouldn't be a Spot but it would be awfully good. Which reminds me, doesn't Lee over at Dreambike use ridiculously steep headtube angles on his custom Ventana's? If so, it must be good, right?
 
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