Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I just reread the whole thread and it doesnt mention anywhere if I have a float or a f120. Down the page someone also asks the question but no answer. You just mentioned that I should change to 140 but if I have a f120 then I cannot do it only if I have a float and my shock has a II on the side which makes me believe it might be a f120...
 

·
noMAD man
Joined
·
12,220 Posts
That previous post does have the description of the F series. chuckie33 answered about the stickers, and I pointed out the much more intricate webbing in the back of the Float arch as opposed to the F series arch. Show us a pic of the back of the arch, and we can be sure. I sold my F series off my '08 SJ FSR Comp, but I think I'm recalling that "II" sticker being on that fork. The word "Float" should be on a Float fork, but Spec gets some weird OEM stuff done for them sometimes. The most definitive answer will be on the back of the arch.

Yeah, the stupid catalog is often wrong on some of these components which is just about false advertising IMO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
745 Posts
It's an F series. That's not a II, it's a sideways F. If you look closely at it, the word "series" is on the stem of the F. According to Specialized, it's supposed to be a Float, but it's not. Mine's like that, too.
 

·
noMAD man
Joined
·
12,220 Posts
Pedalfaraway said:
Sorry if this sounds ignorant but what is the Difference between a float and an f series fork?? I always thought f100 meant Float 100.
It's a slightly cheaper and slightly lighter Float. They apparently cut corners on the travel rod, which uses a roll pin to drop travel instead of the Float spacer system. You can drop travel on F series forks but not raise them. The Fox tech section shows how this is done. The F series chassis has little to no webbing reinforcement in the arch...and possibly other areas that we can't easily detect. The Float will probably be a tiny bit stiffer as a result. The F isn't an OEM fork or such, but it's sort of like that IMO. I can't read Fox's mind, but it seems to me that the F series was perhaps a cost cutting effort.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
TNC, thx for all the help you have provided us... Last question about making the F120 RL more plush and use full travel.... First when I remove all air from fork it goes down all the way so I assume the oil reservoir side of fork is fine. I need to put 45 psi to get 1.25 inches of sag for my 175 lbs body and it seems to loose and mushy during sag. I was going to check the oil level on the air side (as that seems the easiest to do) do I have to make sure the air is completely out when taking the oil out of the top and if so can I just flip bike upside down to remove the oil above the piston once I take the air socket off? How much oil should I leave in there once I remove all the oil from the air side top? Thanks...
 

·
noMAD man
Joined
·
12,220 Posts
I'm not much of a Float or F series fan. I'm sure others will be able to provide way better direction there for creative Float/F tuning. I like air forks that either have a dual air design or a coil/air hybrid. Staight one chamber air forks always seem nearly impossible to get full travel and small bump compliance for me...too much compromise on one end. On your sag issue, one thing that might sound weird that I'll recommend on a lot of air fork tuning is not to become too focused on sag measurements. Especially on one chamber air models, I think it's better to start with a sag measurement but then juggle air pressure while riding to achieve full travel. I think in many cases people find that the sag number will not be the recommended amount. This is some of that compromise deal that I mentioned. People are different, however, and settings can vary wildly for different riders and conditions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Swthrtsuzy said:
It's an F series. That's not a II, it's a sideways F. If you look closely at it, the word "series" is on the stem of the F. According to Specialized, it's supposed to be a Float, but it's not. Mine's like that, too.
Mine is an 08 comp and spec. says it's a float on the website but is an F series on the bike as well. Also noticed that the 08 elite says its a float and 09 elite is a talas now? Also another misprint maybe is the 09's being listed as having a 2.2 front tire in the book and the web when i've seen a comp and expert both with 2.0 fronts on the floor at some lbs's
 

·
Go SOLAR...
Joined
·
1,077 Posts
Dude you need some glasses if you don't see the word "series" on the sticker. Use that education of yours, visit the FOX site and learn how to do things...it's hard to answer people who are just lazy. Why in the hell are you running 1 1/4" sag anyway?

And use the damn search function....the travel issue has been talked about numerous times in the last month....

there is no need to check the damn oil. good grief
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Sag setup

Travel XC/Race FIRM PLUSH
80 mm (3 1/8") 12mm (1/2") 20mm (3/4")

100 mm (4") 15mm (5/8") 25mm (1")

120 mm (4.7") 18 (3/4") 30 (1 1/4")


This is why I am doing 1 1/4 sag....

The fluid that I just took out helped alot getting more travel so it does work. Why dont you finish High school then come back and talk....
 

·
Go SOLAR...
Joined
·
1,077 Posts
.....for someone with a degree you sure are clueless. I don't know where you got that chart from, but 30mm doesn't equal 1 1/4".
You must have been asleep that day...either that, or the web school didn't cover that for your EE degree plan.

and yes most high school students would have known that....and your a college grad???? You have to be kidding....
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top