Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I already know about avid full Metal jackets, but don't want straight runs of stainless steel tubing. I saw what I'm looking for at rays mtb last time I went, but never bought/asked about them. Now I can't find them anywhere online. That are just like the stainless lines for hydralic discs but they were definitley for mechanical brakes. Anyone know what I'm talking about?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
810 Posts
I had some of that housing on a BMX bike like 5 years back....think it was either Avid or Odyssey. It was just SS braided housing with clear vinyl outer over a teflon liner...and pretty sure it was Avid thinking back on it.
 

·
...idios...
Joined
·
5,662 Posts
Goodridge does brake cable sets with a braided outer (link). The kits also have plastic protective tubing for the exposed sections of cable - assuming that you don't run a single outer length.

edit. Now that I think about it, Clarks do a braided outer which looks very similar to braided hydraulic hose. Clarks Pre-Lube, that's it (link). Not very good cables, if I remember rightly.
 

·
Another Monster.
Joined
·
73 Posts
May I ask why you want braided hoses for mechanical disks? Without trying to be rude, they're very poor at best. Why not save your money and get some hydrolics with braided hoses and see a performance upgrade not only with hydrolic disks but with braided lines too?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hmmm...didn't know they were bad. And as for hydralics, no way! I've seen more hydro lines snap in crashed than you could imagine, yes even stainless steel ones. Then your stuck w/ a very expensive repair. Now if I snap a mechanical cable they cost a few dollars to replace at most( not that I've ever seen one snap). If I run good full length housing my BB7's are super easy to maintain. I've ridden my buddies bike that has juicy sevens on it and yeah they had more modulation, but no more power than my mechs. And looking at the price I'll take my BB7's all day long.
 

·
Another Monster.
Joined
·
73 Posts
Destin said:
Hmmm...didn't know they were bad. And as for hydralics, no way! I've seen more hydro lines snap in crashed than you could imagine, yes even stainless steel ones. Then your stuck w/ a very expensive repair. Now if I snap a mechanical cable they cost a few dollars to replace at most( not that I've ever seen one snap). If I run good full length housing my BB7's are super easy to maintain. I've ridden my buddies bike that has juicy sevens on it and yeah they had more modulation, but no more power than my mechs. And looking at the price I'll take my BB7's all day long.
I've been riding a fair while, I work in a workshop and I've only seen a couple of bust hydraulic lines, and they're not that expensive to repair. However, I've yet to find a mechanical disk brake that's impressed me. I've never seen a bust outer on a mechanical line, but that's because I've never seen anyone who's nuts enough to ride hard with them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
647 Posts
mini_death said:
However, I've yet to find a mechanical disk brake that's impressed me. I've never seen a bust outer on a mechanical line, but that's because I've never seen anyone who's nuts enough to ride hard with them.
They're called BB7's, this company called Avid makes them. Plenty of people use them, from XCer's to DHer's, and depending on your rotor/lever/pad combo you can achieve pretty much any feel you want at any power level you want. Not that big a difference in weight, and boy are they cheap! In fact, one might say there is practically no difference between these and hydraulics. Nuts, huh?
 

·
Another Monster.
Joined
·
73 Posts
General Hickey said:
They're called BB7's, this company called Avid makes them. Plenty of people use them, from XCer's to DHer's, and depending on your rotor/lever/pad combo you can achieve pretty much any feel you want at any power level you want. Not that big a difference in weight, and boy are they cheap! In fact, one might say there is practically no difference between these and hydraulics. Nuts, huh?
Well I hope you enjoy them, I'll be sticking to my hydraulics if it's all the same. As for Avids, I'd never ever put them on my bike unless I was being paid to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
810 Posts
I'll just chime in with my two cents...
Why put braided lines on mech. brakes (disc or V)...well, they look pretty cool and most of them are nice cables with teflon liners and they work as well as plain black shimano/ diacompe lines so basically because they look better in someones opinion.
Hydro vs Mech discs...I'm sure this subject has been beat to death on here and I don't feel like searching for all the arguing. I would guess for the OP, since he talks about going to Rays indoor MTB park (and not that I've been there but I have seen pics), I would venture to say he isn't burning down a 5,000ft mtn where his brakes are being torched. And if he is trying or has friends that do BMX style tricks (barspins especially) and bailing off ramps/ bridges I can totally see having mech. discs over hydro stuff. I do have a hydro on my DJ bike because I got it cheap, but it does make me nervous about blowing a line or kinking it where a mechanical brake wouldn't be as big of deal.

As for mini death's opinion of Avid...well 10yrs ago I thought the same about Rock Shox and well, whatta know I have RS fork now that I'm pretty happy with. Times change, all companies have ups and downs, star products and stuff so bad they would like to pretend they never made it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
actually i ride alot of downhill, and find my bb7's to work better than hydros! this is because there is no fluid to boil! i was riding DH with my buddy when he couldnt stop due to overheated brakes! ive never seen mech brakes do that! ive seen two or three lines break at rays, but the majority have been on downhill courses where branches snagged the line, or something caught it in a crash. my avid mechs have as much power as any entry to mid level hydro just less modulation. im not gonna drop $350-400 per wheel on brakes!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
810 Posts
Destin said:
actually i ride alot of downhill, and find my bb7's to work better than hydros! this is because there is no fluid to boil! i was riding DH with my buddy when he couldnt stop due to overheated brakes! ive never seen mech brakes do that! ive seen two or three lines break at rays, but the majority have been on downhill courses where branches snagged the line, or something caught it in a crash. my avid mechs have as much power as any entry to mid level hydro just less modulation. im not gonna drop $350-400 per wheel on brakes!
Cool, hopefully, no offense taken at me guessing your riding style (which is oh so accurate over the net, NOT!).:rolleyes: ;)
I am totally with you on the mechanical brakes and especially the cost per value of them. I've found rotor size makes a bigger difference than hydraulic or mechanical actuation.
 

·
Meh.
Joined
·
17,508 Posts
Destin said:
actually i ride alot of downhill, and find my bb7's to work better than hydros! this is because there is no fluid to boil! i was riding DH with my buddy when he couldnt stop due to overheated brakes! ive never seen mech brakes do that! ive seen two or three lines break at rays, but the majority have been on downhill courses where branches snagged the line, or something caught it in a crash. my avid mechs have as much power as any entry to mid level hydro just less modulation. im not gonna drop $350-400 per wheel on brakes!
You can still overheat rotors or suffer from pad fade with mechanical disc brakes...

BB7s do grab nice, but my hydraulics still bite harder and offer more modulation.

BB7s can't self adjust for pad wear... the lever travel can change quite a bit as the pads wear during a long downhill or a muddy ride.

BB7s are certainly the best mechanical disc brakes out there, and they are better than some hydraulic disc brakes.

I've never ripped a line out of my hydros. If you do... you usually rip it out at the lever end (at least with the repairs I've done)... so grab a couple new fittings, trim the damaged portion, bleed. That's hardly a time consuming or expensive repair. I have seen housing blow up and inner cables snap with cable brakes. It does happen.
 

·
Old man on a bike
Joined
·
12,398 Posts
Destin said:
yeah, mechanical discs all the way! anyone know of good cable housing that comes in multiple colors? preferably red. i want to run full length housing to keep it sealed.
http://www.jagwireusa.com/index.php/products/mountain/469

Don't worry about your bb7s, they work great. Most guys have way more brake than they can actually use anyways and don't use what they've got well anyways (just look at all the brake bumps on the trails these days, probably from bozos with hydraulics grabbing too much at the last minute).
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top