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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I apologize in advance if this is duplicating too many of the mojo as an "all mountain posts..." What I am interested in is using my mojo for occasional lift accessed riding this summer on trails that have drops in the 5 ft. range but with smooth transitions. I am upgrading to a 160mm talas and havoc wheels and already run the 2.35's, 50mm stem, dual front chainring setup. With the slight flex and lighter weight frame I was wondering if I should instead consider buying a used Transition Preston or Bottlerocket instead of spending the cash on a new fork and wheels for the mojo. For the few times I will be doing the lift riding each year, it seems as if I would be better off spending the money on making the mojo better for my type of riding and have one good all-around bike with the increased fork travel I want and the beefier wheels for the rocky trails here. Seeing as some people are riding the mojo in DH races using 140mm forks I think the mojo can handle it. I figure as long as I am hitting nice transitions and not launching it like Lopes, I should be O.K. What are your thoughts? Anyone doing any man made park riding?
 

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Founder: Dirty3hirties
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You're gonna get answers like "Sure...do it....Lopes does it". And then you'll get people saying "No....get a "real" park bike". It's not as black and white as that.

I would say that it depends on what % of the time you're going to be in the park vs "all around riding". For instance, I would take the Mojo to Northstar the 1 time out of the year I would go......but if I lived in Tahoe, I sure as hell wouldn't buy the Mojo as my dedicated park bike. There are a lot better options....and you named 2 at the top of the list.

The Mojo's unique feature is that it can be a "jack of all trades" but it's not going to be theee best ride for a park. It's all about compromise.

Be honest with yourself. Figure out exactly what you'll be doing....what % of the time you'll be doing it, and get the best bike for that particular application.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, it's all about being honest about where/how often you ride....

When I bought the bike I traded Havoc's for XC-ones because coming from a sub 22lb. hardtail I thought weight was a big factor. Once I got used to the area I moved to I realized shorter stems, bigger tires, bashguard etc. all made my rides more enjoyable and I became more capable on the terrain. A couple months ago Idecided to start setting aside money to get beefier wheels because I get a rollover feel with the 2.35 Nevagals, and I keep bending skewers (so I will get a thru axle). With a TA and a beefier taller fork my head angle will be slacker , BB higher and overall my bike will be better suited for my day to day rides.

I can't really afford to get a new fork/wheelset AND a new park bike so I can either 1.) keep my bike setup with XC ones and a 140mm fork and get a used transition for the few times I go to the park. This however would make my day to day riding at my local spots less than optimal or 2.) Have my mojo setup with a new fork and wheels so it is optimal at my local spots and less than optimal for the few times I go lift riding. #2 seems to make more sense to me, I just figured I would see if anyone is finding the mojo to work well in parks to seal the deal. Thanks Ed
 

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mx_599 said:
first thing that comes to mind :idea:



reference:
https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=426322
uh huh... what a load of crock...
Why don't you wait till a full assessment from Ibis before making such claims...
The full story here for those that don't already know..
This is a spanking new SL frame with only a few hrs on it, the ower did a river crossing and noticed this crack...
Ibis are currently sorting him out, but have yet to determine what went wrong. Initial thoughts are a manufacturing defect rather than a design or choice of material.
 

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littlejohn said:
uh huh... what a load of crock...
Why don't you wait till a full assessment from Ibis before making such claims...
The full story here for those that don't already know..
This is a spanking new SL frame with only a few hrs on it, the ower did a river crossing and noticed this crack...
Ibis are currently sorting him out, but have yet to determine what went wrong. Initial thoughts are a manufacturing defect rather than a design or choice of material.
why are you so cranky? both these threads were in the same day...that was the first thing that came to my mind. the OP asked for our thoughts.

i made no claims whatsoever. what claims are you talking about? i just re-read my post.

i am sure i am not the only one on this forum who saw a flash of that photo in their head when this current thread was posted.

be honest...

mx
 

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Founder: Dirty3hirties
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mx_599 said:
why are you so cranky? both these threads were in the same day...that was the first thing that came to my mind. the OP asked for our thoughts.

i made no claims whatsoever. what claims are you talking about? i just re-read my post.

i am sure i am not the only one on this forum who saw a flash of that photo in their head when this current thread was posted.

be honest...

mx
That wasn't my first thought....actually, it didn't even occur to me. I'd take your bet and give you odds that a broken seat tube was far from anyone's first thought except yours.
 

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Once a Year

I rode my mojo at Thredbo on the lifted DH course. It handles quite large jumps OK. But in rock gardens it took a hammering. Actually it was me that took a hammering, it was like riding a rigid bike on my local trails. When things got rough all the travel was being used, probably packing up, and it was vibrating so much that my vision was bluring. I have got my floats it bit more plush now but I am replacing then with a manitou absolute 140 with 20mm axel. I have also bought a set of stans flows That I'm going to be useing as general trail wheels. This should make park life a bit more bearable but I wouldn't like to do it more than 2 or 3 times a year, unless it was smoother.
 

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ddraewwg said:
That wasn't my first thought....actually, it didn't even occur to me. I'd take your bet and give you odds that a broken seat tube was far from anyone's first thought except yours.
sure, okay...whatever. :rolleyes:

anyone that read that thread with the broken frame pics first and then later read this thread would have naturally had a flash of those images in their head.

mx
 

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Founder: Dirty3hirties
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mx_599 said:
sure, okay...whatever. :rolleyes:

anyone that read that thread with the broken frame pics first and then later read this thread would have naturally had a flash of those images in their head.

mx
You just repeated what you said earlier. :rolleyes: :madman:
 

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Another option… Rent. How many times could you rent and thrash a bike at the park before it would equal the cost of a different fork for the Mojo.

But if you do go the new fork option rout. A Manitou Nixon Air 160 - 130 is only 1/2 pound heavier than a 140 Float RLC, much less flexy when set at 140 travel and has great damping.

I just put a Nixon Elite 160 - 130 coil on my Mojo had have had a couple rides to compare to my PUSH tuned Pike 454 U-turn coil, and am very impressed with the Nixon. It's not quite as stiff as the Pike, but much stiffer and quicker handling on smooth hardpack and more stable in rocks than the Fox forks at 140 travel. Damping is as good as the PUSH’d Pike, and I like the very linear coil rate compared to the Pike that ramps up in progression a lot (too much in my opinion) in the deepest 2 inches of travel.

The Nixon air 160-130 has been reviewed by shop mechanic pro Texas rider “TNC” as being very linear for air (a good thing for forks), and like my coil version has the great TPC+ user tunable shim stack compression and rebound.

This Nixon was the first time I rode my Mojo with 160 travel added to the ½ inch higher head height using a 650b front wheel, so about 67.5/71.5 degree head/seat angles and 13.9 inch BB height at topout. I only tried that once on a longer single track downhill and it rode easy, more brake dive than I’m used to (note to self: crank up compression damping when using 160 travel). But it steered very well without any floppy feel slowing for tight downhill switchbacks. It’s defiantly much slower handling than 140, too slow handling to ride fast downhill on tight single track. There are a couple local very extreme steep downhill trails I’m looking forward to trying this Fork at 160mm.

The coil version Nixon Elite is discontinued since the 2007 model - unfortunate because they really got a light weight AM coil fork dialed. The air version is available in ’08, I don’t know about ‘09. If only they had the easier to turn travel adjust knob like the Pike U-turn and a Maxel like axle. At a pound lighter than the Lyric U-Turn with 10mm higher a2c an the same travel range, the big weight advantage of the Nixon Elite 160 – 130, sacrificing some stiffness, may be more appealing to those who climb a lot and usually ride tighter trails at the 130 – 140 height for better handling, but want the 160 for steep downhill or improved pedaling clearance and bump compliance over very rough trail.
 

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mx_599 said:
why are you so cranky? both these threads were in the same day...that was the first thing that came to my mind. the OP asked for our thoughts.

i made no claims whatsoever. what claims are you talking about? i just re-read my post.

i am sure i am not the only one on this forum who saw a flash of that photo in their head when this current thread was posted.

be honest...

mx
Not cranky.. or wasn't cranky.. I thought your post was extremely misleading..
And yes.. I did read the other post just before this one and it never even occurred me.
Perhaps you just have a very negative aura around you, therefore you seem to think the worst first? (j/k)
 

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d3toid said:
I rode my mojo at Thredbo on the lifted DH course. It handles quite large jumps OK. But in rock gardens it took a hammering. Actually it was me that took a hammering, it was like riding a rigid bike on my local trails. When things got rough all the travel was being used, probably packing up, and it was vibrating so much that my vision was bluring. I have got my floats it bit more plush now but I am replacing then with a manitou absolute 140 with 20mm axel. I have also bought a set of stans flows That I'm going to be useing as general trail wheels. This should make park life a bit more bearable but I wouldn't like to do it more than 2 or 3 times a year, unless it was smoother.
Hey.. I've ridden Threder's DH course and also Stromlo DH course. I found the Mojo to perform really well. granted I wasn't breaking any course records or anything like that... is your suspension setup right for those runs??
I ran 30% -35% sag front and rear and a couple of clicks less rebound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ended up buying a 2009 36 talas

I was able to get it for around $880 and I bought a pair of Havoc wheels for $350. I am selling my steel mojo to finance the change as well as my xc ones and '07 float 140RLC. I think the 160mm will help quite a bit where I ride on a regular basis. Most of my rides are so rocky the 140 QR isn't cutting it. Renting is a great option and if I progress to bigger drops I will rent or buy a used heavy-duty rig. I think with my new setup I should be fine on the blue trails with moderate drops. I am going to search for a good deal on the nixon and research it a bit. If I can get a good deal, I can return the new talas and save some cash for a used transition =)....

When it comes down to it, it's really about evaluating where you ride MOST of the time and choosing the best setup for that. For the 3-4 times I go to the smooth flowy trails of Kingdom Trails in VT, I may suffer with the extra weight (it will be 30 lbs. with the new gear) I may not have the best rig for lift riding either but the rest of the time where there are constant rocks and rollers with little elevation change I'll be happy.
 

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MTB Monkey
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ecibis said:
I was able to get it for around $880 and I bought a pair of Havoc wheels for $350.
I think you are going to love it. I threw a 36 Talas on my Mojo for a trip to Moab / Fruita. Coincidently, I also used a set of Havocs with 2.5/2.35 tires. It was a great match for all the ledges, drops, and rocks there. Sure, if I lived there, I would go with a bigger bike, but this was a great solution to have a bike that would take 3 ft to flat drops, bomb through rock gardens, and was efficient and light enough to pedal and climb all day. It just crushed on UPS-LPS-Porc, Blue Dot-Portal, and Free Lunch-Holy Cross.

I also run the bike with a Pike and a DT240/819 wheel set. And the 36, Havocs, and big tires do make a big difference. The really nice thing about the 36 Talas is that it is still a great trail fork at 130. I kept it there most of the time, and just stretched it out as needed.

Enjoy!
 

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littlejohn said:
Perhaps you just have a very negative aura around you, therefore you seem to think the worst first? (j/k)
very high possibility.

it would be like something in the movies where you are shown images and then told not to think about something while your head is being monitored. then there are cues flashed to make you think about it. if you do you will be submerged in a vat of acid. it would suck. very near impossible not to think about it.

all you guys have far greater mind control than me. :thumbsup:

mx
 

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littlejohn said:
Hey.. I've ridden Threder's DH course and also Stromlo DH course. I found the Mojo to perform really well. granted I wasn't breaking any course records or anything like that... is your suspension setup right for those runs??
I ran 30% -35% sag front and rear and a couple of clicks less rebound.
Yeah my suspension does have alot of sag. I just try and keep up with my mates on their hired iron horse DH bikes that also have DW link. My main problem is that I'm a bit light. I had to do the compression rod mod before I got near full travel out of them. Then I played with the oil volumes a bit and they were great for a while. But now I have blown 2 sets of seals in 2 months so I'm buying the manitous.

Are you a Canberra local? I ride Stromlo alot. I love the new XC uphill for the worlds.
 
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