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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Whenever I would clean my bike (Epic 29er) I notice that the rebound on the rear shock would be set all the way fast. I always thought the knob would turn it self (I know not very plausible) or would get moved somehow when I was picking the bike up. I have noticed over the past 2 days that this is also happening with my '12 epic 29er.

This got me thinking and I have now realized when I remove the water bottle, from the left side which is easier due to the air valve on the shock, it rubs against the knob and turns it toward fast. If I remove the bottle to the right it also rubs but turns the knob less because the bottle puts most of the pressure on the air valve not the rebound knob. I have always removed the bottle from the left side due to the air valve. I tried removing it to the right on my ride today. At the end of my ride the knob was 2 clicks towards slow from where it started, also it is a lot harder imo to removed and put the bottle back when doing it from the right side, mostly due to the air valve.

I am using a specialized rib cage and switch between a purist and camelbak bottle, I have noticed it happens with both bottles.

I doubt I am the only one with this issue since it happens with both my bottles. If you have an Epic 29er can you check what your rebound is set to and let me know which way it is turned (if at all) ?

My plan as of now is to get a side loading bottle cage, which should hopefully eliminate the problem.
 

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Thanks for pointing this out.:)

I've had that happen a few times on my Specialized Epic. The red rebound dial underneath the rear shock would be set at full fast when it shouldn't be. At the time I put it down to the dial having shaken loose, or maybe someone else having turned it.

It makes sense that hitting the dial with your water bottle could turn the dial without realising it though. The rebound dial on a 2010 Epic brain shock has quite vague clicks so can turn easily. Is it the same on the 2011 and 2012 brain shocks too?

On an Epic frame the side loading bottle cage is much easier to use than the normal style of bottle cage. I'm using a Specialized Zee cage Right at the moment. It's secure enough and getting a bottle out of the cage is much easier than the normal Specialized cage. It takes a little more practice to get the bottle back into the cage though.

Specialized Bicycle Components : Zee Cage Right

I found it useful to use long bottle cage bolts and add washers underneath the bottle cage, so that it's less of a stretch when you reach down for the bottle. The washers bring the bottle cage up closer to you. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for pointing this out.:)

I've had that happen a few times on my Specialized Epic. The red rebound dial underneath the rear shock would be set at full fast when it shouldn't be. At the time I put it down to the dial having shaken loose, or maybe someone else having turned it.

It makes sense that hitting the dial with your water bottle could turn the dial without realising it though. The rebound dial on a 2010 Epic brain shock has quite vague clicks so can turn easily. Is it the same on the 2011 and 2012 brain shocks too?

On an Epic frame the side loading bottle cage is much easier to use than the normal style of bottle cage. I'm using a Specialized Zee cage Right at the moment. It's secure enough and getting a bottle out of the cage is much easier than the normal Specialized cage. It takes a little more practice to get the bottle back into the cage though.

I found it useful to use long bottle cage bolts and add washers underneath the bottle cage, so that it's less of a stretch when you reach down for the bottle. The washers bring the bottle cage up closer to you. :)
That's what I thought at first as well, the clicks aren't vague but the knob is very easy to turn.

Adding washers on a epic 29er frame would make the problem worse or the bottle impossible to get out. It's impossible now to pull the bottle out without hitting the knob.

Maybe getting a long bolt and just adding washers to just the bottom bolt would work. It is possible the bottle wouldn't hit the knob them but you'd have to down further to get the bottle out and back in due to changing the angle of the cage.
 

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With a side loading cage it's no longer a problem. Adding washers brings the bottle closer to the rear shock but you can still get the bottle out of the cage because you pull it sideways so clearance isn't as important. :)

Having the cage in a higher position close to where you naturally reach makes it quicker to get the bottle in and out of the cage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
With a side loading cage it's no longer a problem. Adding washers brings the bottle closer to the rear shock but you can still get the bottle out of the cage because you pull it sideways so clearance isn't as important. :)

Having the cage in a higher position close to where you naturally reach makes it quicker to get the bottle in and out of the cage.
Okay I thought you were saying the old cage, not sure why I thoguht that :confused:
That is a good idea but I'm not sure if the weight weenie in me will allow it :D
 

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A water bottle that you can get a good grip on is useful too. Many water bottles are a completely cylindrical shape, making them hard to hold.

A more traditionally shaped water bottle works better on the bike. You can easily grasp the bottle's curved top section to reduce the chances of dropping it.

I've been using SIS water bottles due to their shape, although you can get the same shape bottle from many different places. With the Specialized Zee cage the indent in the water bottle's shape actually locks into the cage so there's no chance of it being bounced from the cage.:)

Science in Sport | Sports Nutrition | Online Shop

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not concerning the water bottle, but when the shock lever gets dirt behind it, when you move the lever from full squish to propedal the rebound can sometimes move open on its own. It pays to take off lever and rebound adjuster and clean behind them.
 
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