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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys,

I want to go 1x10 with my current XT 2x10 drivetrain.
Currently have 11-36 cassette with 26/38 rings and a shadow+

Reasons why: simplicity, weight reduction, I rarely use the 38T ring, and to reduce cable clutter on the bike (ripley).

Problem is I don't know if I should got 30T or 32T. Ibis states the anti-squat works best with a 32/34T. I'd go 32, but I'm worried I wouldn't be able to make it on some of the climbs. Would I feel that much of a difference between 30 and 32?

Any thoughts?
Thanks.
 

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No idea. Rider weight, terrain, ability, etc all factor in.

If the Ripley works best with 32 or 34 then stay with that. Why spend all that money on a great frame only to make it less than what Scot and Dave designed just for the sake of going 1x and not being able to pull a 32T.

It's hard to beat your 2x10 setup. Yeah it weighs a tad more (are you losing races by short time gaps, are you a lean and mean racer, do you carry a big heavy hydration pack....then the weight of a 2x10 is a moot point) and "everyone is doing it" and the cleanliness of a 1x looks better.....but if you're walking hills or destroying knees or stressing over a steep climb that's 3 hours into a ride then what's the point of a 1x with inefficient anti-squat gearing on a great Ibis?

My bike's 30T with 42T 1x11 granny is about the same as my other bike's 38/26 with 11-36 in granny. I also have a 32T ring and 42T setup, and I will tell you that 30T bike is very nice when it's a steep nasty hot tired day compared to the 32.

So factor in that 32T with 36 cog on the 10 speed based on your weight, ability, terrain, etc. I'll say it again: a 38/26 with 11-36 is a great all-around setup for trail riding and multi-hour adventures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
~175lbs with all my gear, ride mostly in Illinois, Wisconsin, Michigan but go out to Crested Butte/Durango once a year.

I don't race. The thing is, if I'm usually in the 26T, I'm already shorting myself in terms of what the frame wants. I figured a 30T is an improvement either way.

You do make a good point about just keeping it as is.
 

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NedwannaB
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No idea. Rider weight, terrain, ability, etc all factor in.

If the Ripley works best with 32 or 34 then stay with that. Why spend all that money on a great frame only to make it less than what Scot and Dave designed just for the sake of going 1x and not being able to pull a 32T.

It's hard to beat your 2x10 setup. Yeah it weighs a tad more (are you losing races by short time gaps, are you a lean and mean racer, do you carry a big heavy hydration pack....then the weight of a 2x10 is a moot point) and "everyone is doing it" and the cleanliness of a 1x looks better.....but if you're walking hills or destroying knees or stressing over a steep climb that's 3 hours into a ride then what's the point of a 1x with inefficient anti-squat gearing on a great Ibis?

My bike's 30T with 42T 1x11 granny is about the same as my other bike's 38/26 with 11-36 in granny. I also have a 32T ring and 42T setup, and I will tell you that 30T bike is very nice when it's a steep nasty hot tired day compared to the 32.

So factor in that 32T with 36 cog on the 10 speed based on your weight, ability, terrain, etc. I'll say it again: a 38/26 with 11-36 is a great all-around setup for trail riding and multi-hour adventures.
Dropping to a 30t RF n/w ring myself from a reg 32t ring to help with chain line on my 1x9 650B Superlight more than getting an easier granny gear(tho I'm sure I'll enjoy it). Currently running a 11-34t xtr cassette that still has some life left. May bite the bullet later on and get a XO1 or Canfield 9 rr drivetrain setup if I feel the need to get some top end back with a smaller final drive cog.

Most likely revamping my vintage XTR 952 series crank set on my hardtail to 2x9 if I can find a set of reasonably priced 5 hole 74/110 bcd replacement rings in 22/36 or 24/38.
 

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hey guys,

I want to go 1x10 with my current XT 2x10 drivetrain.
Currently have 11-36 cassette with 26/38 rings and a shadow+
You are using 26 most of the time apparently with no problems, so 30 or 32 should be ok in terms of anti-squat. But 26 to 30 or 32 is a bit of a jump. Ratios for the last 3 cogs in your cassette ( 28 32 36) are:

CR 26: 0.929 0.812 0.722
CR 30: 1.070 0.938 0.833
CR 32: 1.140 1.000 0.889

So if you use 26x28 or 26x32 a lot I would go 30, but if you don't I would go 32. I personally would wait and see what Shimano actually releases and keep the dual now!
 

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I would not worry about the big jump from 26 to 32 teeth. Yes, the most used area of the cassette will change, but it is unlikely that you run out of range altogether. You do have 36 teeth in the back after all, it provides a very good torque even with a 32 teeth chainring on a 29er.

Larger chainrings and cogs are better for drivetrain life (all parts incl. chain) as well.

There will be a time when you'll stall and are unable to turn the cranks any further: you run out of max power. But if you had a 30t chainring instead of 32, would it really make that much of a difference? If you're worried about this, the best thing you can do is hit the gym. In just a few months the increased maximum power will make more difference than a couple of teeth on the chainring.
 

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Adding to the good input already received, if you go 1x10 then it's easy to buy two raceface narrow-wide rings. A standard 32 for the majority of riding and then that 30 or 28 for the trip to Colorado. On a related note I like the interview with Pivot's Chris Cocalis and his comments on gearing, 1x and Colorado riding. Not an apples to apples for you, but maybe helpful:

Interview: Chris Cocalis of Pivot Cycles, Part 2 | Flow Mountain Bike

Getting back to Dave Weagle’s ‘I can’t fit the front derailleur’ problem – how do you feel about single-ring drivetrains and the possibilities and challenges it opens up to you as a frame designer?

I don’t think it’s likely or possible in the near future that we should be going to a one-by drivetrain on every bike. For a certain segment of riders or for certain type of trail, XX1 or XO1 are super kick ass. But I won’t go to Colorado with my XX1 bike. I did an endurance race up in Flagstaff that had a tonne of climbing on it, so I took my 429 Carbon XX1 bike with a 28 tooth up front. And man, I paid the price on every climb – I needed two gears lower – and then I’d spin it out on every descent. I spent the whole race wishing I had a double chain ring up it, like a 22/36.

So that’s where I’m at on that issue. And I joke with Shimano, let’s just go to a 14-speed and you can give me a 9-56 tooth cassette out back… and then I’ll go to a one-by drivetrain.
 

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chasing simplicity
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hey guys,

I want to go 1x10 with my current XT 2x10 drivetrain.
Currently have 11-36 cassette with 26/38 rings and a shadow+

Reasons why: simplicity, weight reduction, I rarely use the 38T ring, and to reduce cable clutter on the bike (ripley).

Problem is I don't know if I should got 30T or 32T. Ibis states the anti-squat works best with a 32/34T. I'd go 32, but I'm worried I wouldn't be able to make it on some of the climbs. Would I feel that much of a difference between 30 and 32?

Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Faced same decision for my SC 5010. Decided to get 30t raceface narrow wide ($49 universal cycles). Going to ride it with my 11-36 xtr cassette awhile. If I more granny for super steeps and technicals then I'll try the oneup components solution (40 cog, drop 15 and 17, replace with 16, which they include...whole deal $90.) if you want a 42 cog it's $100).
 

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Here's how you decide:

- Determine the lowest gear ratio you need based on your current set up.
- Determine what size chain ring you need to achieve it with your current cassette.
- Determine if that chain ring will give you a high enough high gear with your current cassette.

If so, buy the chain ring, and you are done.
If not, you need a cassette with a bigger big cog, so you can use a bigger chain ring, start at beginning, iterate until finished.

About "anti squat" effects - Do not, even for one second, think about this.
 

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Cactus Cuddler
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Steve nailed it - just ride it, and see how many times you use each pair of extreme gears (24:36 and 24:32 and the 36:13 and 36:11). If the latter two aren't getting touched, 30T. If you can get by without the lowest granny, then 32T is the answer.

The physics of the antisquat have more to do with rider weight and rider specific output than the gearing, let alone the fact that terrain all but invalidates that idea - have the gearing range for how you ride the bike, the suspension will work with that.

Finally, if in the course of testing you realize you're using both of the bottom two gears, and at least one of the top gears with any frequency, just save money and stick with your existing 2x setup. I did that same above test, and realized that I camp in my lowest gears quite a lot, but still used my 36:11 gear quite a bit, so looking at sunk cost it was way smarter to keep what I have, and spend that money on a dropper post.
 

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Rocks belong
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If you decide you want a 32T, PM me. I have a brand new, red, RaceFace 32T N/W in RF packaging. I accidentally threw away the wrong packaging bag (I had two brand new rings), so I can't return it.

I'd be happy to let it go at a good price.
 

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I have a 32 in front on my 3 ring cranks with 11-36 out back on my ibis mojo sl. I kept the 22T granny on and I just shift it manually (finger) when I need to climb the real steep hills. The simplicity and weight savings are nice.
 

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I went back and forth and ended up with 34T up front and 11-34 in the rear. You will learn or adapt to what you have eventually and hopefully become a stronger rider. I bet on the average ride I only use 3 of my 10 gears. It is amazing what you can do with less options.
 

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32T for 26", 31T for 650b, 30T for 29" as rule of thumb for average rider. I'm average and have one of each ( though 26" is now 32T X 17T SS). Subject, of course, to your personal strength and ability.
 

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i'm using a 30t with 11-42 (with wolftooth GC) cassette on my full suspension rig and a 32t with 11-36t HT. Truly a matter of personal preference.
 

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I have a 32 in front on my 3 ring cranks with 11-36 out back on my ibis mojo sl. I kept the 22T granny on and I just shift it manually (finger) when I need to climb the real steep hills. The simplicity and weight savings are nice.
That's a great idea. I might give this a try.
 
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