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I replaced my Surly one with this. I prefer the fixed position and no spring.

Unless it is tightened down firmly it can move and thus slacken the chain.

Better still is to spend your money on a SS frame :)
 

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blet drive
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ya but i just billt up my old ht for now.. the wife bought me a full suser not to long a go so no ss frame yet!!
 

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Portland, OR
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the dmr is suppost to be a good product. looks a little flimsy. the surly gets terrible rateings. really look into a rennen tensioner. they're suppost to be some of the best.

PM BikeSATORI I believe he was looking to sell his, or you can get them new on pricepoint for $49.99
 

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todd_freeride said:
...the dmr is suppost to be a good product. looks a little flimsy....
It's steel, so it will not break if you have a crash and hit a rock with it. Just bend it back. Better than alloy in my opinion.

Mine doesn't feel flimsy at all.

I don't use tensioners now that I have proper SS frames and the DMR STS is the only tensioner I kept out of several because I thought it was the best one. Hope that helps.
 

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bikes are people too
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I second looking into a Rennen.. a little more expensive (well, not really that much considering) but it is the last tensioner you'll have to buy, I'd put the bank on it.

Of course, it depends what sort of riding you're doing, I've heard the DMR is a bit flimsy on the trails, so when it comes down to it I would rather have something like my Rennen when I'm bouncin around on a singletrack. It's bombproof once you put it on and tighten it.
 

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dip n ride said:
I second looking into a Rennen.. It's bombproof once you put it on and tighten it...
Isn't the Rennen alloy? It's a very nice piece of equipment, but I don't know of any alloys that won't break if hit hard enough.

Steel bends and can be straightened beside the road by bashing it with a rock.

I suppose it depends how you ride. I'm not good enough to avoid bashing things...:)
 

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bikes are people too
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datako said:
Isn't the Rennen alloy? It's a very nice piece of equipment, but I don't know of any alloys that won't break if hit hard enough.

Steel bends and can be straightened beside the road by bashing it with a rock.

I suppose it depends how you ride. I'm not good enough to avoid bashing things...:)
www.rennendesigngroup.com

According to their website, it's 6061 Aluminum (for the body I suppose) and stainless steel for everything else.

I understand your concern about bending or breaking it... but I guess I've had pretty good luck, I've never fallen awkwardly enough or brushed up against something hard enough to break a piece of equipment like that off my bike. And it really is pretty sturdy, the body is 1/4" thick.. once you bolt it on it isn't going anywhere, and it stays close enough to the chainstay (in push up mode) that I don't really think you'd have to worry too much about bending it or (gasp!) breaking it off.
 

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...soon to be sith lord..
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dip n ride said:
I second looking into a Rennen.. a little more expensive (well, not really that much considering) but it is the last tensioner you'll have to buy, I'd put the bank on it.

Of course, it depends what sort of riding you're doing, I've heard the DMR is a bit flimsy on the trails, so when it comes down to it I would rather have something like my Rennen when I'm bouncin around on a singletrack. It's bombproof once you put it on and tighten it.
I have the DMR TensionSeeker, aluminum, spring loaded and have put LOTS of miles on it and have never had any problems out of it. The spring loaded tensioner allows you to change out your rear cog for smaller or larger ones without having to re-adjust your tensioner each time, as long as it's not a drastic change. It's been a good 'en! :thumbsup:
 

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For those of you who have the DMR or Rennen...

For those of you who have the DMR or Rennen...

Is your drivetrain as smooth since you have been using this tensioner. I installed mine last night, and just pedaling the bike the stand it just does not feel nearly as smooth as I originally had it set up. The original setup was the rear derailluer was locked in over the 16tooth cog and the front derailleur was locked in over the 32 tooth chainring. I am still using my old chain -- just shortened. The forward pedal stroke is not nearly as smooth as before -- but I notice it even more when I back-pedal. I am using the DMR in the push up mode -- it I really put a lot of push-up to it then the smoothness issue becomes even worse. I backed it off a small bit and it improves, just not near the inital geared bike smoothness. I have the chainline dead on -- I messed with spacers a long time to get it aligned. I am not sure if the reduced smoothness has to do with the extra rear cog wrap from using the tensioner "push up" or if it is just the chain side plates following the roller surface.

Any thought or ideas, or anyone experience the same thing and just say its normal?
 

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eman2 said:
For those of you who have the DMR or Rennen...it just does not feel nearly as smooth as I originally had it set up....
If it's your old chain maybe it's at end of life. Measure its stretch.

Other thoughts that come to mind are that you are using too much push up pressure - try less. The object is to have the minimum of pressure to do the job.

I assume you're using a grooved roller appropriate to your chain size - if your roller is for 3/16" chain then while a 1/8" chain may fit it would give the sysmptoms you describe.

Finally, is your chain well lubed? If it has ever been rusted it's junk.
 

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datako,

Thanks for the reply. The chain I am using is a shimano 8-speed. I am using the grooved roller than came with the DMR -- I believe that it can be used with an 8-speed but a bmx chain would be too wide. The chain is still a good as it was when I had it on the 8-speed drive train, I can't see how a new chain would make much of a difference. I think the rennen and DMR style of tensioners are sensative to how straight the derailleur hanger is -- I had to put a few washers behind the DMR to space is out because the derailleur hanger is recessed inboard at the attach point. I am thinking it might be a little cocked from side to side or tipped a slight angle -- I will have to keep playing with it.
 

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I've used the DMR sts. It's generally fine and I would recommend it. But I've only used it on my city bikes, never mountain biking, and the only other tensioner I've used is an old derailleur. It did have the occassional hiccup were I'd hear the chain pop, but it never came off. I think it was because I had the cog in the middle of the freehub body to line up with the middle chainring position and that was the limit of how far the orange bushing could move inward. Speaking of the bushing it only fits 3/32" chain, just so you know. And mine would always partially slide off of the bearing it rode on, but it never came off completely and it never caused a problem. That might have been related to the previous chainline issue.
 

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Just spoke to the bike shop. He says I should really replace my chain. I am using the old chain that was used to my old chainring and rear cassette. Now I have a new chainring and a new cog -- I need a new chain -- I am hoping things will be like butter once I get it on.
 
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