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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The DRCV shock on the Trek Remedy is fantastic. It's the closest air shock to a coil I've ridden. It is head and shoulders above any air can that I have ever ridden. It's still not a coil though. I've found that if you set it up stiff enough to handle big drops, dirt jumps and fast aggressive riding it is chatter on the small stuff. Sketchy. If you set it to 35% sag it wallows and bottoms out excessively. It seems like there was not a happy medium.

Being a big fan of coil and oil suspension I set out to convert my remedy to a coil rear shock. I even talked to a couple of custom shock builders and no one had a solution. Trek has 10mm bearings for the drcv shock so it's not just a bolt it on and go endeavor. To my knowledge no one has done this conversion on a 2010-2011 to date. This is my journey through the conversion. I imagine it would also be possible to convert any standard air can using similar parts to a DRCV as they sell them now to the public.

There are two different ways to do this. One is with a reducer and the other is with The RWC needle bearing kit. I did this the hard way first. With needle bearings top and bottom. What I found was that there was two much play in the double needle bearing kit top and bottom. There are bearing in the top anyway, so there was no need for the needle bearing kit up top.

Parts List

NEEDLE BEARING CONVERSION KIT 39.88mm part number NBKRWC3988. This kit fits the top and bottom shock mounts


ENDURO® MAX FULL-COMPLEMENT BEARINGS part number 608 2RS MAX 8mm x 22mm x 7mm. These bearings will convert the 10mm bearing to 8mm.


Fox Rear Shock Hardware Kits part number 803-03-046


Homemade press

Step 1

Remove the cranks, you will need to get to the bottom pivot.

Step 2

Loosen the bottom pivot. The bottom shock mount is under pressure from the main pivot.

Step 3
Remove the top and bottom shock bolts and remove.

Step 4

Press the bearings 10mm bearing from the outside in. You can use a socket. I used an old stem spacer.

Step 5

Press the new 8mm bearings from the outside in. If you don't the you could have the bolt you are using for a press stuck in between the bearings. (Don't ask)

Step 6
Bolt the shock up. You will need two 1mm shims for the top. You can get those from a local hardware store.
Do not tighten. The main pivot should be torqued down first.
Main pivot 300 inch pounds
Lower shock mount 85 inch pounds
Upper shock mount 150 inch pounds

Done.

More pictures




This is when I had it built with needle bearings on the top and bottom. I found it had some play in it. That is when I decided to go with the reducers on the top.



There are still bearing up there. There is not a single hint of restriction


Bottom mount with the RCW needle bearing kit. I would highly recommend getting this kit. The main bearing on all the trek FS are so tight that the shock wasn't even moving in the DU bushings. There was huge restriction in that bottom mount, so much so that it was shearing the paint. Basically built in low speed compression.



Suspension settings.
I weight 190lb and like a pretty firm setup. I went with a 500lb coil and run about 28% sag. I also tried a 450lb coil and ran about 30% with it. I preferred the 28% sag much better. It is all down to personal preference though. These are the settings I liked for both. I started at the trek recommendations for the scratch, and then tweaked them from there.
190lb
450lb coil, 1.5 turns of preload. rebound 8 clicks out, lsc 6 clicks out
500lb coil, .5 turns of preload, rebound 7 clicks out, lsc 7 clicks out

My problem with the rear was that it seemed to get overwhelmed in really rough fast terrain. I love this bike, and the coil has made it even better. I don't notice the weight at all. It pedals amazing, I actually prefer it over the air. I still have that stiff pedaling platform that stays high in it's travel how I liked the air setup, but now the small bump compliance is amazing. A huge upgrade. It rips

I can go out with my XC buddies and hang with them on the climbs, hit dirt jumps without slamming the bump stops, and the next day go keep up with all the dh guys with their sleds. It does it all.

Can't wait for an MX Tune from Push.
 

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Thanks for posting the awesome write up. What model is the new shock? I recently replaced my EX8's rear shock with another one after the seal around the air valve blew out. If it happens again I might try something like this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's a 2011 fox van rc. As soon as push gets its mx tunes done I'm getting pushed. It really did completely change the bike. 28 percent sag is perfect for the coil.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks it went pretty fast once I had the parts. Even without it push it to me to huge difference. I can't wait till the mx tunes are ready.

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Thanks it went pretty fast once I had the parts. Even without it push it to me to huge difference. I can't wait till the mx tunes are ready.

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Damn, PUSH is out of stock on the MX tune. I know PUSH uses avalanche parts for the MX tune. Perhaps Avy is another place to consider?
 

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Was there a lot of binding in that lower pivot on your bike ?

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
{QUOTE} Loosen the bottom pivot. The bottom shock mount is under pressure from the main pivot.

I did not have to loosen the bottom pivot on my bike to remove the shock. I did have to size the shock reducers because the Cane Creek's were a bit too long. I would think any fitiment of the reducers other than 0 preload would put tension on the lower chainstay bearings.
 

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Hey guys,
This is my first post on the forum and I wanted to thank the thread starter (dhalsey), great work and great write-up! I bought a brand new leftover 2011 Remedy 8 from LBS for cheap money and then proceeded to pretty much upgrade everything (except for the seat, seat post, and rear shock). At first I thought the DRCV shock would be great, given the reviews its a very decent air shock. However after a few weeks of riding at Highland Mountain Bike Park I've been unable to find a decent balance between sag and excessive bottoming out.
Because I've already spent to much money on the bike I wanted to get a decent used coil shock, fortunately I just picked up an Elka Stage 5 shock in very good condition for little money. I bought the shock before coming across this thread and was sure I'd have to machine special mounts, at least for the upper mount. Thankfully I came across this thread which is a huge help, now I can't wait to get this shock and parts needed so I can get it installed! I'm especially excited to get rid of the tight tolerances in the lower shock mount, like dhalsey the stock lower mount on my Remedy was very tight (even though the lower main pivot was torqued correctly). Even with the upper mount removed it was very difficult to pivot the air shock on the lower mount.
Not that anyone will care but I'll post back in the next week or so with photo's and my own experience with the conversion from air to coil. Again I can't thank dhalsey enough, this is really a huge help and beats either machining special mounts or trying to make it work with off the shelf hardware store parts!
 

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Unfortunately I'm not able to send private messages yet dhalsey but I was hoping you could help me out. I was able to order all the parts I need to convert my Remedy 8 to run a coil shock except for the Fox reducers (part # 803-03-046), I ordered them from CambriaBike but they won't get delivered until next week (but I want to ride this weekend)!

With that said you mentioned in your article that you initially ran the RWC Needle Bearing kit on both the upper and lower mounts but had issues with excessive play which is why you ended up going with the Fox reducers on the upper mount. I'm curious how it was possible to run the RWC Needle Bearing kit on both the upper and lower mounts considering each mount has a different face to face width (the lower mount is 39.88mm and the upper mount is about 48mm give or take)?

I couldn't tell from the photo you posted (when the bike was running the RWC on top and bottom) how you made the 39.88mm needle bearing kit fit into the 48mm wide upper mount? I'm asking about all this because until my Fox Reducers arrive I'm just going to run the stock Fox reducers (that I pulled out of the stock DRCV shock) in the lower mount and use the RWC Needle Bearing kit in the upper mount along with the RWC Max bearings which will reduce the bolt size down to 8mm. Thank you very much for taking the time to read this and for sharing your experience!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I used the original drcv spacers that came with the rear shock originally on the bike I think I had to add spacers as well. get it on there annual find you might not need any spacers at all

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As stupid as it sounds I didn't even think about that until you mentioned it. So I just went down and measured the width of the stock DRCV shock (without the spacers), its 39mm-40mm. Once you add in the spacers its the same exact width as the upper mount, good thinking! Assuming the parts arrive before Friday I'll be up and running this weekend! Thanks again for your prompt reply and help!
 

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I'm trying to figure out could I install the Cane Creek DB coil to my 2011 Remedy and replace the DrCV shock. Fitting the shock will be very tight, if possible at all and the 10mm bolt at the top with press fit bearings complete the challenge, will have to think about the 8mm bolt to both ends.

Dhalsey: how much clearance do you have at your bike between the seat tube and coil and what year your frame is? Could you upload a picture that shows the clearance?
 
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