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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got this puppy machined. All from one block of aluminum for maximum thermal transfer. Dual SSC U-bins, dimming on one button, single/dual power on the other side. 1000mAH max. Still working it a bit, but my machinist is getting there. Still need the lower mount for the bracket. The main body has been sandblasted to increase radiative heat emmision, but the front and back plate have not. It will be uniform when it's done. The black sealing gasket is also a bit rough, b/c I couldn't find the right punch to cut the hole for the screws. It should sit flush in the final run. Just couldn't wait to get this out there and share :D

The picture shows the light on the helmet. That's just to give you a reference to my LARGE E2 helmet. It's just sitting on there, so it will be higher up when the mount is done.

EDIT: the title isn't that great, it's not really DIY. But I don't know how to change the title so that's going to stay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was debating the velcro...not sure about how well it will stick to the aluminum...

I'm using a buckpuck, and L2 optics, 15 deg for each. It's upgradeable with future star form factor lights, and there's some extra room in the front to fit some variety of lenses that are out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For the first prototypes, it was taking about 75 minutes to cut those fins per side, which means 150 minutes to cut fins per unit. He figured out some more creative methods, and cut that time down significantly. Still a SH*T load of work. I hope to have a few extras in there's interest out there.
 

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Post a price and I'm sure people will be interested. Bob's (il2mb) machined housings went pretty quick and he had like 30 of them. 2xspots on the helmet is a good combo with a good flood on the bars. Heck, That sounds like a great plan to me actually. I call first dibs on any extra housings!
 

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Was he using a 1/8" mill bit? If so, I can feel his pain. The problem with trying to make narrow chanels and fins is having to used mill bits that have the strength of toothpicks. Each pass has to be slow and shallow or they snap. My last build was much simpler and still took out three bits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
rockymtnway
You got it, 1/8" bit. I think 4 passes per fin. He broke 4-5 of them before figure out another way to make it. I forgot what it's called, but I belive it's basically a circular saw that's run across, cutting the fin in one pass.

joraff and all
I intend to sell them as complete units, wired, w/ battery. I selected an 11.1V 2200mAH battery. On full power, that should give you about 2.5-3 hours. Nice and light setup. The head unit is I think around 110g or so. PM me for details. I need to figure out a price. Let me put it this way...the housing costs as much as all the parts within. I think I should have 3 leftover from this first run.

msxtr
Here are a few shots of the inside. The LEDs are held in place with screws, making upgrading easier. The buck puck in the back has some shrink tubing around it so it's completely black. As you can see, there's not room left for anything. As a reminder, those gaskets are hand cut so they're a bit rough. The final one will be cleaner.
 

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Mmm... Tasty
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scar said:
Finally, someone got the direction of the slots for heatsinking benefits correct.
Not really... heatsinking is more important when air is not moving over the light head, so the fins should be set up for vertical air flow...

Still a very cool and nice looking light. It has a super robust look to it.
 

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excellent..

notenough,

Very nice. Slick looking DIY.

What was the cost of machining? That's a lot of milling.

I'm able to get my case, back plate, and angle bracket for around $25 if I pay for a run of 25 or more and provide material. I've thought of starting with a block of aluminum and machining. Certainly would allow for more flexibility in the design but my machinist would charge me 2-3 times as much.

Good job!

Bob
 

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doesn't matter

achesalot said:
Looks great! And you even machined your heatsink fins in the right direction :)
To actually determine it do the following:

Take a TC and mount on the inside cover of the case surface. Drive the LED at max current for about 15 minutes to achieve thermal stability while directing a fan at the housing perpendicular to the heat fins. Take a reading and repeat with the case heat sink fins parallel to the fan air direction. The two readings will be within 1-2 degrees.

Surface area is the most important factor followed by material (assuming of course that a metal is used)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Extra housing

Turns out I have one extra housing. I need to order parts to build it up, but will not be ordering the battery. If you're interested, PM me. You'll have to get the battery yourself. Delivery timeframe should be 2nd week of April. I've put together the first 6, and yes, it's a headache, but a sweet light.
 

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Very nice!

I'm interested in your circuitry. I was just barely able to wire up a bFlex, how do you have a buckpuck and two switches hooked up in this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
cdn-dave said:
Very nice!

I'm interested in your circuitry. I was just barely able to wire up a bFlex, how do you have a buckpuck and two switches hooked up in this?
That post I put up a few replies ago has the internal view. It's a really tight squeeze. My buddy modeled all the parts in ProEE. We didn't have any parts besides the buckpuck in hand, and had to guess on the DX clicky switches. Luckily, everything worked out. :D
 

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Dual Lock vs. velcro

I used a product called Dual Lock by 3M. It has a much higher holding power than velcro. BTW, I have two lights mounted now on a experimental mount, one with Velcro and one with Dual Lock - I cannot pull the light mounte with dual lock straight off, have to grasp a corner and twist up.

Anyway, just my 2cents.

Here is a good link describing the product. It is fairly expensive, but I bought enough to do two lights for about $5.50 at Ace Hardware.

http://www.itapestore.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=19
 

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