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on my dodgy laptop screen it doesn't look that much better than the R2s but I am guessing that in reality there is more throw but less of a hotspot? Am I correct?
Still much better than the boom versions anyway!

What driver is that? is the the one that gillestugan linked to? here?

those drivers look good but there are a few user reviews saying they had problems. Is that just because they are being overdriven?
 

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aka RossC
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Discussion Starter #22
tobymack said:
on my dodgy laptop screen it doesn't look that much better than the R2s but I am guessing that in reality there is more throw but less of a hotspot? Am I correct?
The hot spot isn't quite as intense but is wider. You can notice it on the trees where there is much more of the trunks illuminated with the MCE vs R2's. The biggest advantage this build gives me is weight saving, it probably weighs half of my r2 build and my neck is going to be thankful.

What driver is that? is the the one that gillestugan linked to? here?

those drivers look good but there are a few user reviews saying they had problems. Is that just because they are being overdriven?
It is the first time I have used one of these drivers so I will see how they last
 

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Is that reflector actually solid aluminum? How well does the MC-E fit?
 

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Now thats commitment!! Great work Salty!!... also the loss of blood will make you lighter as well... :thumbsup:

Toby: Yep thats the driver, its over spec & the chip cooks...I have had no probs with the ones I have been using as I add copper slugs to the top of the chip...but really need to lower the drive current for better eff...

K
 

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ocean breathes salty said:
The hot spot isn't quite as intense but is wider. You can notice it on the trees where there is much more of the trunks illuminated with the MCE vs R2's. The biggest advantage this build gives me is weight saving, it probably weighs half of my r2 build and my neck is going to be thankful.



It is the first time I have used one of these drivers so I will see how they last
Now I have got home and used a decent monitor I can see what you mean. Very nice :)

On the driver, in case anyone is interested the dealextreme SKU07425 uses the same PT4105 device (with a completely standard cct) but has a piggybacked 5 mode controller.
DX state it goes to 8.4V but I've just tried one at up to 12V and it works fine, I can't see any reason why it wouldn't go to the full 18V unless there is something on the controller board that doesn't like it.

EDIT: btw. the driver in question is the one hanging off the side of the light shown here
 

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aka RossC
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Discussion Starter #28
kuksul08 said:
Is that reflector actually solid aluminum? How well does the MC-E fit?
The reflector is solid metal of some description although I am not quite sure what it is. Around the edges it looks a little like brass??. You don't need to mod the base at all, the MCE fits right in and there is plenty of room on the pill for it to fit.

If i was doing it again, i would probably get the MCE star mounted with individually addressable dies and trim it down so that it fits on top of the pill.

I will post a few more build pics when i tidy it up a little. It is a mess of wires at the moment.
 

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tobymack said:
those drivers look good but there are a few user reviews saying they had problems. Is that just because they are being overdriven?
It has been sold in many versions. Current version is very reliable when not being overdriven. Im using a few in home lighting applications driven at 12V 24hours/day, I also have one in a 3XSSC P4 light driven at 800mA from a 14,8V battery and one in a 2xXR-E driven at 750mA from 7,4V. Havent had any problems so far. Problem is that it comes overdriven from when bought from kai.
A lot of information of how to fix this and/or make it dimmable is in this thread at CPF.
 

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aka RossC
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Discussion Starter #31
Slow progress with this light. Still tinkering to optimize it. Since the beam gets a large doughnut when the pill is screwed all the way in, i needed a stand off so that i could get everything nice and tight with the pill only done up half way.

With all the torches i have cut up lately, I have heaps of the rubber switch boots lying around and recycled one to take up some space. It also acts as a handy electrical insulator to ensure there are no shorts.



Next i will fit a small heat sink to the back of the pill to try and handle the heat a little better. I will wait until i can get to my old man's bench grinder rather than using files however.
 

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aka RossC
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Discussion Starter #32
looking for inspiration

So here is a shot of the driver housing with switch that i need to mount to the helmet. It will sit near the back of the helmet in line with the light (about 10 cm away).

The only problem is that I can't figure out how to go about doing it :confused:

I am really looking for something very simple that weighs next to nothing and looks nice and neat. Does anyone have any brilliant ideas???

 

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aka RossC
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Discussion Starter #33
stick with what you know

I couldn't come up with another way to mount the driver housing so ended up doing the same as the light head. I have butchered some Al bar to fit into the back of the pill to try and soak up a little more heat.

Overall I think this is the end of the line for this particular light.. it is has ended up heavier than i would have liked (probably about 150g but haven't weighed it yet). It will still be my primary helmet light but thank god it will be dark so that no-one can see it as It should probably be in the fuglies.

 

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question.

Love your light. but I'm curious why you didn't put the controller in your pack with your battery?
 

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aka RossC
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Discussion Starter #35
texas said:
Love your light. but I'm curious why you didn't put the controller in your pack with your battery?
Well, 2 months down the line. I can now answer that question..... I wanted to be able to switch it off easily without having to fish for the switch in a bag or jersey pocket. SInce it is so questionable on heat, I didn't want to leave it on while stationary.


I have done a few more rides with this light now as the days start to shorten. I can safely say this little MCE won't last too long. There is a pronounced tint shift and corresponding drop in light output after the light has been on for a few minutes. It is clearly cooking the LED so I think I will chalk this housing up as a failure and move on.

I will probably pull out the MCE and make a better heat sinked housing and also recycle the driver housing. I have a spare MCE optic around here somewhere, so I will see how that goes in some kind of torch housing.
 

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Hi

Love the switch unit and your knuckle duster lights - Could you please give a bit more detail on how you made them?

Thanks
 

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aka RossC
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Discussion Starter #37
wizbru said:
Hi

Love the switch unit and your knuckle duster lights - Could you please give a bit more detail on how you made them?

Thanks
Sorry for the delayed reply, I am floating around Vietnam on hols at the moment. Crazy Crazy place.

1. Buy cheapy lights from DX as linked in my thread. If you want to keep everything the same colour and keep the anodizing, you will have to purchase a couple of sets. Alternatively you can strip off the andozing to get a clean metal finish like I did.

2. You end up using the little torches backwards. So cut them off to a lenght that will allow enough room to fit your heat sink and wiring +/- driver.

3. Push out the switch assembly from the end cap - you might need to be forceful - after a while my thumbs got sore from this and I found the best method was to use a socket smaller than the diameter of the hole, sit the endcap attatched to the torch body on top and hit it with a rubber mallet. They pop right out. I ended up filing out the front endcap a little to make sure it wasn't blocking any light.

If you are making a "duster" style light - I cut the duster shape out of a stip of Al that was the same width as the little space between the kunrling and the end cap. You will see what I mean when you have one in your hand. I used a drill press and hole saw to make the holes but in an earlier edition, I was able to get something that would suffice by using a normal bit and playing connect the dots with a file - time consuming but it worked.

4. Take another end cap from another torch body and file the thread down so that you can push it into what now becomes the back of the light. The tighter the fit the better.

5. Get some round Aluminium stock and file down until it fits tightly inside the torch body to act as the heat sink and thermal pathway to the outside of the body. I drilled out the back of the heat sink to save a little on weight. My heat sinks were around 10mm long.

6. Drill holes all the way through the Al stock to pass wires through to the LED.

7. AA (artic alumina) the LED star to the heat sink.

8. Depending on what optics you use - I used cheapy DX ones, You will need to file down the optic holder to get it to fit in the end cap. You need to take a lot off it.

9. Wire up and assemble. You can use the switch if you have room, which I have done in a couple of lights.

The switch box assembly was done exactly the same way, just in miniature.

Good luck
 
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