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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
OK, as someone pointed out when I started the original DIY done cheap thread it really wasn't that cheap. Anyway, I like the title so I'm sticking with it.

Finally got my parts from Cutter.

MCE, M bin, WH tint, series configured
Ledil CMC SS optics
Maxlfex3 driver

The case is about an 1/8" longer than the originals. Needed to fit the Maxflex in there. I'm using the same battery that I've been running my 2 x R2 light heads on - 11.1 volt, 2400mah, Li-Ion from batteryspace

The MCEs are individually series configured as I said but the 2 devices are in parallel with each other so the max current to each leg is 600ma. I figure I'm getting well over 1000 lumens on high. Really like the CMC SS optics. No artifacts with a nice spread to the beam. It is broader beam than the SS optic for the XR-E but still quite nice. On high(1200ma) the case does get noticeably warmer then the same case with R2s but not so hot you can't keep your hand on it. I plan on taking some internal temperature measurements in the future but my initial view after riding with the light tonight is the case does a good job of dissipating the heat.

comparison pics - Taken with a point and shoot that only allowed me to set iso at 100 and shutter at 1 sec.

1. 2 x R2 @ 1000ma
2. 2 x MCE @ 1200ma
3. case-rear
4. case-front
5. 2 x MCE @ 1200ma (trail)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ocean breathes salty said:
That is a really nice looking light. How was the case made... it looks really neat!
The bar clamp also looks very interesting, what is it?

ps. How Aussie is the scrub in the beam shot!
Here is the thread from the original post.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=355347

The case starts out as a standard rectangular tube. I then have a machinist cut the fins, front bevel for the polycarbonate, and the rear plate. Taking the corners off makes for nice affect.
 

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Bandolero
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Nice job. I'd thought about upgrading my DIY Done Cheap with MCEs.

I see you extended the case 1/8". Was that really necessary or would it have been just a tight fit??
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
notaknob said:
Nice job. I'd thought about upgrading my DIY Done Cheap with MCEs.

I see you extended the case 1/8". Was that really necessary or would it have been just a tight fit??
Notaknob,

I sold you a case? Don't think I ever saw the build get posted. What did you put in it?

The additional 1/8" was added when I was looking at the Bflex driver. It is 1" in diameter while the Maxflex3 is only .9". The Maxflex3 might fit in the old case but it for sure does in the new one. The Maxflex3 is preferred so I can drive 600ma into each parallel leg.

Bob
 

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Bandolero
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Done last year

il2mb said:
Notaknob,

I sold you a case? Don't think I ever saw the build get posted. What did you put in it?
I finished it in February and got a few rides in.

I like it but since then have made up a few DIY Dinottes with the 10 degree DX lens. I usually carry one in my bag "just in case" a daytime ride turns into a dusk/night ride.

I like the DIY Done Cheap light but since putting it together I'd like to have a bit more spot. I had both headlights on a ride and was very happy with the combination. I might replace the CRS-D with a CRS-SS as an in-term solution.

I've also been thinking of upgrading it with an MC-E w/Boom-SS and a R2 w/CRS-SS, replacing the buckpuck with a MaxFlex but the winter riding season will be winding down here after a month or two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
notaknob said:
I finished it in February and got a few rides in.

I like it but since then have made up a few DIY Dinottes with the 10 degree DX lens. I usually carry one in my bag "just in case" a daytime ride turns into a dusk/night ride.

I like the DIY Done Cheap light but since putting it together I'd like to have a bit more spot. I had both headlights on a ride and was very happy with the combination. I might replace the CRS-D with a CRS-SS as an in-term solution.

I've also been thinking of upgrading it with an MC-E w/Boom-SS and a R2 w/CRS-SS, replacing the buckpuck with a MaxFlex but the winter riding season will be winding down here after a month or two.
notaknob,

I have several of these lights built and all except one is the same combination you have - one CRS-D and one CRS-M. The one light head with two CRS-D optics is noticeably more focused. So if you want more spot it is worth it. Up until now I have done my night rides with two light heads on the bars. Each head is setup as a mirror image of each other with the D on the inside for throw and the CRS-M optics on the outside for flood. I get very good throw and excellent flood. This combination allows me to forgo using a helmet light which I don't like using.

Bob
 

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Bandolero
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cables are a pain

il2mb said:
notaknob,

I have several of these lights built and all except one is the same combination you have - one CRS-D and one CRS-SS. The one light head with two CRS-SS optics is noticeably more focused. So if you want more spot it is worth it. Up until now I have done my night rides with two light heads on the bars. Each head is setup as a mirror image of each other with the SS on the inside for throw and the CRS-D optics on the outside for flood. I get very good throw and excellent flood. This combination allows we to forgo using a helmet light which I don't like using.
Sounds like the CRS-SS would be the easiest/cheapest upgrade.

What I don't like about most headlights is the cable that attaches the light head to the battery. I have a 12v Li-ion battery that I'm using for the light head that mounts on the helmet so I'm not tethered to the camelbak.

Drops with only a bar light freak me out. Where I normally ride at night there are a few dips, rollers and a couple 2' drop/jumps. The first time I rode with only a bar light I didn't like it when I couldn't see the landing.

I'm psyching myself up to try this one at night:
 

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Nice work! Have you thought of anodizing it? It would look really nice with some ano, it's easy to do at home and cost virtually nothing if you have a battery charger. I built one similar to yours and anodised it. Did you use a mill or saw to cut the fins?
Anyway it looks nice! Here's a pic of mine before and after anodizing. I anodized all parts and left the front and rear panels without color. All you need is a battery charger, some battery acid, some aluminum wire and scraps of aluminum plate.



 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
racerdave said:
Looks awesome!

So if it wasn't cheap... what did the whole setup run ~ price wise?
$188.09 - not including various shipping charges

Includes battery, charger, and machining charge.

Second head would add about $100 (less the battery and charger)

So about $288.00 for the setup

I put together a couple of R2 heads a few months back. They use the same battery and cost, again, about $100 each. The battery and charger take up alot of the expense as you can see.

Bob
 
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