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DX lights

tamen00 said:
These are actually a little different than the one that you posted. They are about 1/2" shorter, and only the cap on the back unthreads so you can cut another 3/4 inch off the front to make the light body even shorter... sweeeet!!

Also, these flashlights are slightly larger diameter than the aluminim pipe from home depot, so instead of using the copper plug for the heatsink, a chunk of 1" aluminum bar stock fits perfectly inside without much filing!! Huge bonus!! (And you can get a foot of the barstock for about 6 bucks, enough to make 12 lights...)

I did a little digging and I think I found the same flashlights at dealextreme for a smoking price... two of them for $4.89.
https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1099
This customer image seems to suggest that they screw apart in two places:



So it isn't really possible to cut length out of it I guess. Would it be possible to just replace the LED with a single CREE XRE and direct drive from 3xAA. I am thinking about making a light for a friend (for commuting) and he would certainly prefer something fairly hassle-free.

BTW, what is the internal diameter of your light?
 

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Hi, sorry about that... that is the same light the OP bought... the one that I bought is identical to these lights...

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3206

these are not as nice as the OP's flashlight, however they only unscrew from one end so you can cut it to length (only come in packs of 7 through DX though). I should have some pics of mine pretty soon... I just need to find time to build it up. One thing... this is a pretty crappy flashlight, and the aluminum is really thin, however with a 1" solid aluminum heatsink it shoud be fine.

There is also about 20 other lights on DX that would work. Just look for a diameter of about 1" and all the optics, drivers, etc that are in this post will work just fine.
 

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znomit said:
I've removed AA'd stars before, not too hard. The AA left behind was brittle and scraped off.
Probably easier than getting epoxy off. Screws would be nice but more machine work.

You don't really need AA either, you can just use thermal paste under the star and a little epoxy around the side to hold it. BTW AA costs a fortune but you need very little.
Sidewinder computers have the best value AA that I have been able to find and their shipping to Australia & NZ is very reasonable too http://search.store.yahoo.net/cgi-b...g=sidewindercomputers&x=14&y=15&query=AATA-5G :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

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tamen00 said:
Hi, sorry about that... that is the same light the OP bought... the one that I bought is identical to these lights...

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3206

these are not as nice as the OP's flashlight, however they only unscrew from one end so you can cut it to length (only come in packs of 7 through DX though). I should have some pics of mine pretty soon... I just need to find time to build it up. One thing... this is a pretty crappy flashlight, and the aluminum is really thin, however with a 1" solid aluminum heatsink it shoud be fine.

There is also about 20 other lights on DX that would work. Just look for a diameter of about 1" and all the optics, drivers, etc that are in this post will work just fine.
I have loads of these multi pack ones and have found that if you smash the switch out of the end cap ( it does not come out easy) then the end cap can be used as a front becouse it is the perfect size for a 20mm optic, just put an Oring in front of the optic before putting it in the end cap and if you have a few then use an end cap from one of the others with switch intact on the other end after you have cut the main tube to the required length.

Hope that makes sense, if not I'll do some pics tomorrow.
 

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yetibetty said:
I have loads of these multi pack ones and have found that if you smash the switch out of the end cap ( it dose not come out easy) then the end cap can be used as a front becouse it is the perfect size for a 20mm optic, just put an Oring in front of the optic before putting it in the end cap and if you have a few then use an end cap from one of the others with switch intact on the other end after you have cut the main tube to the required length.

Hope that makes sense, if not I'll do some pics tomorrow.
Sounds like a great idea. I'd love to see some pics anyway. Do you epoxy the former-end cap on to the trimmed-down front?

Is the O-ring for weather proofing or to stop it smashing the front lens?

They are so damn cheap I'd be really interested in using them for lights.
 

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glowinthedark said:
Sounds like a great idea. I'd love to see some pics anyway. Do you epoxy the former-end cap on to the trimmed-down front?

Is the O-ring for weather proofing or to stop it smashing the front lens?

They are so damn cheap I'd be really interested in using them for lights.
Yes the O-ring is for weather proofing and the rest will have to be up to your imagination as I have not made one it's just an idea that I have for a very easy build.
Thing is I just don't need yet another bike light. But it's good to put the idea out and see if it gets made. I took a pic of the end cap with optic and O-ring next to an unchanged end cap just to get you in the mood. Ooh and a buck puck will fit as well! Good luck
 

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I'm going to build this light with the cheap DX drivers(when I get them). Is the light brighter on 5 cells nimh? I'm assuming 6 cells nimh might be a little much for the driver?
 

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Had a play and this took 10 minuites. Best to screw the optic cap on then AA the switch cap into the tube after sanding down the threads, that way if you want to try different optics the front can be unscrewed.
If you are in the UK these torches are in pound shops for guess what...... a pound.
 

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Downunder dynamo dinotte

Put this together over a few hrs for a local commuter who keeps blowing 3w halogen bulbs in his dyno light.

Its dynamo driven, simple rectifier circuit and smoothing capacitor, waterproof switch, Q5 cree and the cree optic from Kai.
Housing is inch square aluminium, plastic end cap seals one end and an easy mount for the switch. Other end is an acrylic window glued in place.
22$NZ worth of bits. 140lm.







Hadn't done a dinotte style mount before. I used some dental putty, moulded around the bars and plonked the light on top, sets in 5 minutes. Ends up as a perfect rubber mount.

The housing design will fit an MC-E with the 20mm carlco optic and an nflex. :thumbsup:
 

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yetibetty said:
Had a play and this took 10 minuites. Best to screw the optic cap on then AA the switch cap into the tube after sanding down the threads, that way if you want to try different optics the front can be unscrewed.
If you are in the UK these torches are in pound shops for guess what...... a pound.
Awesome job! Thanks for doing a bit of fiddling even though you don't need the lights yourself. They look so nice .. are you tempted a little to change your mind? :)

Any Aus members seen these in Go-Lo shops or the like? The DX deal is a good one, but I don't really need 7 ...
 

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yetibetty said:
Had a play and this took 10 minuites. Best to screw the optic cap on then AA the switch cap into the tube after sanding down the threads, that way if you want to try different optics the front can be unscrewed.
If you are in the UK these torches are in pound shops for guess what...... a pound.
Hi, where sell that? :rolleyes:

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr
 

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glowinthedark said:
Awesome job! Thanks for doing a bit of fiddling even though you don't need the lights yourself. They look so nice .. are you tempted a little to change your mind? :)

Any Aus members seen these in Go-Lo shops or the like? The DX deal is a good one, but I don't really need 7 ...
Don't forget that you'll need two for every light that you make so if you have two on the bar and one on the helmet you'll get through the lot and have one left over for spare parts. Too good to miss at that price. And yes I may as well make a helmet light as I've half done it anyway.
 

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yetibetty said:
Had a play and this took 10 minuites. Best to screw the optic cap on then AA the switch cap into the tube after sanding down the threads, that way if you want to try different optics the front can be unscrewed.
If you are in the UK these torches are in pound shops for guess what...... a pound.

Very cool. I did not get how you connected the head to the body. Did you thread the body after you cut it?
 

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txn said:
Very cool. I did not get how you connected the head to the body. Did you thread the body after you cut it?
No, once you have removed the switch from the tailcap and relaced it with an O-ring and 20mm optic it can be screwed back onto the rear end of the torch (the new front).

Now cut the tube to the required length and take a tailcap from one of the other torches with the switch still in place, this will not screw into the cut tube as there is no thread in the tube but with a little sanding this can be made a very tight fit and glued in place.

If you have the means you could thread the cut end of the tube.
 

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Does anyone know of a good source for 15 degree, 20 mm optics in the US? I should add that I would prefer a clear 15 degree optic, not a narrower one with a diffuser. I don't want to wait forever. I have been looking at the Seoul P4 star or the CREE XR-E Q5 for LEDs. I can't find a good US source for the Q5s either. I am too impatient to wait 3 weeks to get them from Hong Kong.
 

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Thanks p97z. I wasn't sure if the L2s would work with the Seoul LEDs or not. The description made it sound like they were only for the Luxeons. The hardest part about this whole project is trying to match up LEDs with optics. If there is some magical thread that lists good combinations, I would love to see it.
 
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