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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I used some parts from Lowes to create a Dinotte style 200L.

1. Hollow 1" Aluminum round tube. Not 3/4" like the picture shows.
2. Nibco 3/4" brass plug
3. Bar end plug from Cinelli handlebar tape

I AA'd a Cree LED to the brass plug and then AA'd the brass plug to the inside of the Aluminum tube. When the Arctic Alumina (AA) dried, I used some black RTV to seal the front lens and the tail plug. The handle bar plug end fits perfect inside the brass Nebco fitting.

I can't wait to try it out!
 

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I win.
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Very cool looking light!

I have a few questions if you don't mind.
What driver and battery are you using?
Seeing that it's only 3.7volts you could probably power this thing with some fairly cheap batteries.

Another question, where did you get that "rubberband" to hold the light to your bars? I was thinking maybe one of those old vacuum cleaner belts or something.

Did you have to file down the end of that copper slug to get it to fit inside the housing? In the interest of saving weight you could probably cut that thing in half and still have plenty of surface area for heat dissipation.
 

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rubber band

any big hardware store will have a large selection

its an o-ring. there are many many sizes metric and US..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm using a buck/boost converter from Sandwich Shoppe.
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?products_id=961

I'm using a spare o-ring from my Dinotte and 4 AA batteries for power. I did have to file down the end of the copper slug. It's a tight fit so it works out perfect.

If i make it any smaller then I don't think it will fit well on the bars. It's a little shorter then my 200L. My 200L doesn't move at all while riding so I hope this DYI setup is the same.
 

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I'm interested in that copper plug. Is that the heatsink? Where did you get it? If that is solid copper I could push a K2 to the 1500mA they say it will do. Does everything size good for a good fit inside that tube you're using?
 

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What driver would you use to push the K2 emitters to 1500mA?
The most I've seen is a 1200mA driver.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Here's a poor diagram showing how it fits together. It's a tight fit! The copper plug is hollow so the driver fits inside. The diameter of the housing is the same size as the bar end plug.
 

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I've been looking for a compact design for a single Lux III tail light and this would work great! A couple of questions:

  1. What optic did you use?
  2. Did you use a star?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm going to make a tail light next. This came out better then I expected.

1. I used a Cree 8 degree 20mm optic. Any of the 20mm or smaller optics will fit perfect.
2. I used a Cree LED mounted on a star. The star fits perfect without any filing.
 

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p97z,

Very nice! That has got to be one of the simplest and most effective led DIY's I have ever come across. Thanks for posting so much info.
 

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I'd like to see you use one of those triple Rebels with this design. 300 lumens @ 350ma or 540 lumens at 700ma would seem to be the ideal single LED to use for a compact headlamp. Still, sourcing optics is a bear and I'm having to modify optics to get what I want. Something to think about though...
 

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rockymtnway said:
I'd like to see you use one of those triple Rebels with this design. 300 lumens @ 350ma or 540 lumens at 700ma would seem to be the ideal single LED to use for a compact headlamp. Still, sourcing optics is a bear and I'm having to modify optics to get what I want. Something to think about though...
Not enough mass and surface to accomodate 3 LEDs at higher currents.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
1. Cut the hollow Aluminum tube to 2 inches.
2. The copper plug is a little too big to fit in the aluminum. Use a rough file or a Dremel to remove the outer lip.
3. The Aluminum housing needs a way to sit on the handle bars. Cut a round grove in the bottom using a round file or a Dremel with a round sanding attachment. Align the grove so the housing is centered. For over sized bars you may need to make the grove larger.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
4. Put two small groves in the top of the aluminum housing using a small round file. This will keep the rubber mounting o-ring from slipping.
5. Sand the housing using some fine sand paper. You can polish it if you want.
6. Align the LED in the center of the copper plug. I'm using a Seoul with an L2 optic. It's easier to use a star because you only have to drill one hole.
7. Epoxy (Arctic Alumina) the LED to the copper plug. I also use silicone RTV to keep the wires from shorting against the copper plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
8. Secure the optic holder to the copper plug. I let a little dry on the sides of the holder to make a snug fit. The L2 optics are a little smaller then the housing.
9. Mix some AA adhesive and apply a thin coat to the copper slug. Slide the copper plug in the aluminum housing and let dry. Leave enough room at the front to allow a bead of silicone.
 

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