Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does it make sense to upgrade v-brakes to a disc brake only on the front wheel to save money?

What about put a hydralic brake on the front wheel and a mechanical disc on the back wheel - again, to save money?
 

·
inner peace to make peace
Joined
·
2,305 Posts
hydralic disk on front

walkman said:
Does it make sense to upgrade v-brakes to a disc brake only on the front wheel to save money?

What about put a hydralic brake on the front wheel and a mechanical disc on the back wheel - again, to save money?
i've been using hydralic disk on front (Hope M4 Mono now, Hope Mono Mini before)

for my steel hardtail to get disk brake tabs wielded on then to replace my light tubeless (UST) real wheel with a light tubeless (UST) disk wheel along with hydralic disk brake for rear will be another $400~$650...not worth it as my current Avid Single Digit Ti v-brakes has been performing fine enough for me.

so go ahead and enjoy having disk brakes up front only, but consider just saving the money and continue to ride the v-brakes which will work well enough as long as you need 'em.

keep riding your bike, continue to save the cash, then later sell your bike and get a new bike that's already's got two disks...unless you're real attached, emotionally, to your frame like i am with my steel Kona Lavadome...got lot of crash memories that "we've" survived together.

i do not doubt mech brakes are good, esp them Avids.
but i'd rather go with hydralic disks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
660 Posts
I run a front mechanical disc brake and a rear v-brake because I could not pass up a deal on a disc only Reba. I tried this option to check out the BB7's , which are excellent and I could use my levers (Avid Ultimate). I also had disc/rim wheels so this was an easy answer. I think it works really well.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Cable friction

You should consider the amount of drag in your braking system due to friction between cables and housing. I'm converting to disc as well and plan to run Avid BB7 mech up front and possibly a hydraulic for the rear. Looking at the amount of cable between your lever and rear brake, I personally would throw a hydraulic back there if you have the cash.

cheers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,081 Posts
le Coq Rouge said:
You should consider the amount of drag in your braking system due to friction between cables and housing. I'm converting to disc as well and plan to run Avid BB7 mech up front and possibly a hydraulic for the rear. Looking at the amount of cable between your lever and rear brake, I personally would throw a hydraulic back there if you have the cash.

cheers.
The rear brakes have always been the bane of my existance as far as cable friction is concerned. With hydraulic brakes you don't have this issue. I would rather have a front mechanical with a rear hydraulic than the other way around. On my Cannondale with BB7s, I put a teflon coated cable on the rear only, keeping the non-coated cable up front, and the feel did not change. The amount of friction in the cable going to the rear always makes the rear brake feel sluggish and stiff while the front is snappy and light. With hydraulic brakes both frames feel this way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
569 Posts
I use a m525 hydro front and avid 1d20 V's in the rear. I think its a great combo as far as money and weight issues go. As far a cable friction goes I think it's a non issue. I use a full length avid flackjacket compressionless housing and it's as smooth and troubble free as anything else out there.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top