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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all-

somewhat n00b to mountain bikes (At least modern ones), and I have some questions on components and wheelsets.

I may be getting a 2013 Spec Camber 29er, not sure if it is the comp or not, without the wheelset. I was looking on Wheelbuilder to see how much a non stock wheelset would be to put together, and I don't know the differences between hubs and what is recommended. (Such as ISO vs Center Pull vs Straight Lock etc etc).

I am 5'11", 184 lbs (Although when I'm in racing weight for road, I'm down around 170). I plan on doing a lot of trail riding in the Phoenix area (So dirt, rocks and cacti), along with some enduro/marathon racing (Barnburner 104, Whisky 50, etc).

What should I be looking at for wheels? The 2013 camber was a 9 speed, while the comp is a 10 speed. Can I interchange a 10 if it was a 9 speed version? Do I need a 32 spoke count, or is 28 sufficient? Is there an advantage to the notubes, or should I stay with a tube system?

Thanks all for any explanations/recommendations.

John
 

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Well, from the Specialized site: Specialized Bicycle Components

Rear hub is: "New Specialized Hi Lo disc, 4x-sealed cartridge bearing, 142mm spacing, 12mm thru-axle, 32h"

So I would assume the frame is setup for 142 12mm thru-axle. Most newer (2012 -->) hubs just have replaceable endcaps (Just converted my Hope Pro2 Evo's from 9mm QR to 14mm thru) for all of the standards. I would stick with 32 spokes, but that is just me. Just does not seem like the right place to try to cut weight (especially at your weight and what you are riding).

Tubeless is the ONLY way to go IMO. You do not need tubeless specific rims or tires. Nearly all rims and tires can be easily converted with replacing the rim strip with Stans or Orange Seal or Gorrila Tape and some presta stems with removable stems.

Good luck!

Edit: Oh, and there are two (that I know of) standards for 14mm thru axle (Shimano and DTSwiss), This will affect the type of thru axle skewer you will need (Hub will support either one). Not sure what that frame is using. (it may actually come with the frame - that would be nice).

Also, 9 speed and 10 speed cassettes are interchangeable. There is no such thing as a 9 or 10 speed specific hub. So if you decide to upgrade to 10 speed in the future (assuming you will initially be getting a 9 speed cassette because the shifters/der on that rig appear to be 9 speed), you will be fine.
 

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mtbpete
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For a custom mtb wheelset 32 spokes per rim is generally the way to go. 28 would be for very strong carbon rims or someone looking for the lightest wheelset possible.

So it looks like you need to get the rear hub spec'd as 12x142 to fit your frame.

The fork is a standard quick release, but your stock hub may have come with a 9mm thru skewer. Check the skewer on the front of your bike. If it measures 9mm in diameter, and you want to keep using that skewer then you need to spec the front hub as 9mm thru. If it's a tiny 5mm skewer then that's standard QR.

It looks like you have 6-bolt rotor hubs so you need to get hubs that are designed for 6-bolt rotors. Centerlock type rotors have a different interface - they lock on at the center with on cassette type lock ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
For a custom mtb wheelset 32 spokes per rim is generally the way to go. 28 would be for very strong carbon rims or someone looking for the lightest wheelset possible.

So it looks like you need to get the rear hub spec'd as 12x142 to fit your frame.

The fork is a standard quick release, but your stock hub may have come with a 9mm thru skewer. Check the skewer on the front of your bike. If it measures 9mm in diameter, and you want to keep using that skewer then you need to spec the front hub as 9mm thru. If it's a tiny 5mm skewer then that's standard QR.

It looks like you have 6-bolt rotor hubs so you need to get hubs that are designed for 6-bolt rotors. Centerlock type rotors have a different interface - they lock on at the center with on cassette type lock ring.
The bike has no wheels at all. Do I still need to adhere to the 6 bolt, 9 or 5mm, etc?

John
 

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mtbpete
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The bike has no wheels at all. Do I still need to adhere to the 6 bolt, 9 or 5mm, etc?

John
No, you can choose the hubs based on the style brake rotor that you want to use or have. If you have 6-bolt rotors it's best to choose 6-bolt hubs, unless you want to buy an adaptor for the rotor. If you have centerlock rotors they must be used with centerlock hubs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Whats your budget? This will impact what hubs/rims suggestions you get.
Overall budget is right around 2k. So, if the bike is 8, that leaves 1200 for wheels and any changes (Such as changing out the derailleur and chain to go from 9 to 10).

As I explained in the thread in the Az forum, I guess part of what I was after is a vocabulary lesson, such as what a straight pull hub is and what the different might be from a regular hub, etc.

So, if anyone has a good primer on wheels they can point me to for reading, I'd be grateful.

John
 

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You mentioned Pro Wheel Builder, here's an example of a light but solid wheelset for a nice price.

-Hope Pro 2 Evo 12 x 142 rear
-Hope Pro 2 Evo 9mm thru front with 9mm thru bolt
-WTB KOM 29er rims with tape and valves
-Sapim Race spokes black
-Sapim Polyax aluminum nipples

Total is $615 and 1531g...leaves you lots of $$$ for other improvements.
 
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