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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok for those of you in the know in the MTB community, I would like your opions. I purchased an 04 hardrock Comp (disc bakrake model) on Ebay, I paid $200 for it, upon its arrival i ofund out hte lwer prtion of the forks were broken. I contacted the seller and he agreed to purchase another set of forks to replace them as he didnt know the forks were broke (he just got the bike in a trade of some sort and sold it). I found a new set of MZ COmp Marzochi's on ebay for $100 and he paid $75 of that. So now I have a hardrock, wiht brand new forks for $225.00. THe bike needs work though, a bash guard was added and I do not have two of the Chainrings, the rear derailer needs adjusting and do the disc brakes, and both wheels need to be trued. I asked on the forum yesterdya and someone (who was very helpful thanks) gave me an estimate, which looks to be about $80-$100 to get the bike perfect (meaing everything working properly, including installing the new fork).
So I am looking at $300 or $325 for a Specialized Hardrock wiht new Marzochi forks and completely tuned and ready to ride. My question is did I get a good deal, or would I have been better off spending $300 on a lower end entry level bike that is new, or did I do better with my Hardrock?

I would apprecite feedback form the community, I can always sell the bike for what I have in it and get a new entry level Raleigh or trek for $300 instead
 

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Keep the bike. I'd definately take a quality used bike over anything you could find new for 300. Consider the fact that most new, quality forks hover around the $300 mark. A whole new bike for that price just makes too many compromises.

I'd say ride the bike until parts break, then spend money on decent replacement parts. We did something similar with my girlfriends bike and she was riding a nice bike while she broke into the sport.

IMHO specialized makes a good product and you seem to have gotten a decent deal.
 

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Freshly Fujified
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You did well

That bike lists for $600 in their 2005 catalogue. There is no way you'd find something comperable brand new for the same money. Have it tuned up and enjoy it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks for the input

Thanks everyone for the input, Im really looking forward to riding, Im hoping it will provide the smae thrills as racing motocross did, but wihtout as many broken bones! I geuss I have alot to learn, please any tips on parts, riding etc.. Ill gladly take. I did quite a bit of reaserch before chossing to bid on a used bike, Specialized definitly makes a good bike, but I have so many questions regarding parts, I use this site product guide reviews and also contact my L.B.S. and now have a good understanding on forks, i had to reasearch wuite a bit to get some replacemetn forks, for a beginner the Mz COmps were the best for $100 and being I only had limited time to find some. I need to find out things like disc brakes, derailers, shifters etc.. so I can be on the look out for good delas to upgrade. Also, how do you determine the proper seat height? I have so many things to earn, so if any of you can rmeber little thigns that you tell yourself " I wish someone had of told me ________ when i first started riding" then please do, Im eager to learn, to think Im this stoked on riding and cant even ride the bike yet until my forks get here!
 

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EDR
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-Am I the only one who had to read this 3 times? Wat teh fkcu! Haha

Seriously kid, sounds like you got yourself a good deal. Buying a new ride for only 300 bucks would only get you what amounts to a POS bike (in comparison to the HR).

Let me tackle just one of the questions: seat height.

Seat height varies a lot depending on if you're a d/h runner/freerider or xc rider. Generally for proper and a most efficient pedal stroke (for XC riding) your seat post should be adjusted to a level that, when your foot is at the bottom of the pedal stroke (and shoe is level to ground at the same point, not pointed up or down) your knee should be just short of full extended. Meaning your knee should not extend so far that it "locks". This is a basic starting guidline.

For d/h most everyone lowers their seat. This is so its easier to get behind it and keep your weight back so you don' t go over the bars (OTB).

There are some very detailed diagrams and pics on proper seat set up, but my advice is don't get too technical right off the bat. It only makes things confusing.

Mount that seat up high enough so you can make use of a full leg extension without locking the knee and you'll be fine. When starting an extended d/h run, lower it as much as you want, whatever is comfortable for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Spell Check Is For Punks! Hahaha

yeah I know, the typos are ridiculous, i type really fast but do not look at the screen when i do so....... Im at work and dont have time to proof read either! Thanks for the input, ill work on the typos! See this one is much better! hahaha I appreciate all the info though form everyone, it helps. Im glad to hear my biggest mtb decision (bike chosice) was a good one!
 

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Old man on a bike
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Consider that the MZ is one of Marzocchi's poorer offerings in several respects. If you want moto type performance you're going to have to increase your budget. Ride what you bought and enjoy it, if/when you want to stick with the sport and get better equipment sell that bike and get something at a higher level...
 

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It's about showing up.
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Not bad.

On the trails with a bike tuned and ready for $300 is no easy task. The shock deal was veery fortunate. Keep in mind that this bike will get you started and teach you a lot. Other bikes are down the road.
 
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