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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Getting ready to rig up a drop bar sus fork with a disc, so need some advice.

My options are to use Avid BB 185's (which I'd prefer) with 287Vs, or use the road discs which are only 160 but I'd have a wide choice of levers.

From some of the posts I've read, it seems as if the 287Vs can be a pain to set up in terms of cable routing, etc which may lead to less smooth and efficient braking. Plus then you've got the cables sticking out of the lever at odd angles or whatever.

By using the 160 road discs, I can be assured of smooth cable routing and brake action, and have a wide variety of lever choices, although I'd probably go with Shimano R600s.

FWIW, it'll be a mullet, with Magura hydros on the back.

Would the braking power of the smoothly routed road 160s be equivalent to the 185s with perhaps less efficiently routed cables?

Inquiring minds want to know...RC
 

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Do not use the 287V's lever noodles and the cable routing is shorter and smoother than any other dropbar lever. Running housing under the bar tape creates tighter bends and adds friction. Even with "regular" road levers I usually do not run the housing clear to the stem under the tape.

You can use any rotor size you want with the Road calipers. You just need to get the larger rotors and brackets separately. I have the road calipers on my Coiler DL with 203/185mm rotors.
 

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shiggy said:
Do not use the 287V's lever noodles and the cable routing is shorter and smoother than any other dropbar lever.
INTERESTING! what do you put on the end of the cable to make it lock into that metal dealie where the noodle usually attaches to the brake?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
shiggy said:
Do not use the 287V's lever noodles and the cable routing is shorter and smoother than any other dropbar lever. Running housing under the bar tape creates tighter bends and adds friction. Even with "regular" road levers I usually do not run the housing clear to the stem under the tape.

You can use any rotor size you want with the Road calipers. You just need to get the larger rotors and brackets separately. I have the road calipers on my Coiler DL with 203/185mm rotors.
Thanks Shiggy-since you've run both, which would you prefer for offroad suspension use?

I'm assuming the road calipers have less modulation, since they're 'geared' higher so to speak.

So if I use the 287s, how does the cable route, if not under the tape? Straight out of the side, or...?

I can get a new set of the 185 BB7s with a roundagon disc for $72 off the 'bay, which would be a lot less than piecing together a road set.

Flak Jackets, or what cable?

Appreciate the feedback...RC
 

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max-a-mill said:
INTERESTING! what do you put on the end of the cable to make it lock into that metal dealie where the noodle usually attaches to the brake?
It does not need to be "locked" into place. I just put an end cap on the housing and butt it up to the inside of the lever body. Cable tension holds it in place. On some bikes I have used a few Nokon housing beads between the lever and the standard housing but it is not necessary.
 

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2xPneu said:
Thanks Shiggy-since you've run both, which would you prefer for offroad suspension use?

I'm assuming the road calipers have less modulation, since they're 'geared' higher so to speak.
Wrong. The overall leverage is the same because the lever leverage is different, too.

So if I use the 287s, how does the cable route, if not under the tape? Straight out of the side, or...?
Whatever gives you the smoothest routing
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I can get a new set of the 185 BB7s with a roundagon disc for $72 off the 'bay, which would be a lot less than piecing together a road set.

Flak Jackets, or what cable?

Appreciate the feedback...RC
I prefer Nokon housing. I also use bulk QBP housing. Always full length. Teflon coated Jagwire cables. No lube.
 

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rockhound said:
Sorry to hijack, but what is that fork on the Slingshot and where can I find a disc-specific one like that?
Made for this SlingShot by Scott Quiring who also made the frame.

Long, steel and not light.
 

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shiggy said:
Do not use the 287V's lever noodles and the cable routing is shorter and smoother than any other dropbar lever.
I strongly second Shiggy's advice here. In the past I've used the little noodles on my 287-V setups. Braking was always just fine, but nothing to get too excited about.

Then last week I built up my 'crosser with 287-Vs and Avid SD7s. Identical setup to what I'd previously been running, but this time I left out the noodles. FWIW, I peeled the housing's plastic cover back from the end by a couple of mm, so the metal part of the housing would set firmly in the little hole in the lever body where the noodle is supposed to go.

WOW! What an improvement! The brakes are SO powerful and actuate so effortlessly, I can't believe I'm riding rim brakes. Now I need to go back to my KM and yank the noodles out.
 

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Go Kart Motzart said:
My bad. Hard to tell with the JC Whitney sticker kit, but thanks for correcting me with your usual smarta$$ reply.

BTW, I stand by the fact that it is disc specific.:D
Simply and directly correcting your misinformation is a smarta$$ reply?
 

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I hate to break up this love fest, but I just felt the need to point out that in shiggy's multi-bike picture, it looks like there's a black cat... uh, catwalking on handlebar of the Redline Monocog.

That's all. Back to your regularly scheduled sniping.
 

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SpinWheelz said:
I hate to break up this love fest, but I just felt the need to point out that in shiggy's multi-bike picture, it looks like there's a black cat... uh, catwalking on handlebar of the Redline Monocog.
I timed the shot that way. Nocko insisted on being in the background.
 

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hijack #2

Shiggy -

What is clamped to the bars of the middle bike? Light mount?

By the way, I never used the noodle and the levers/deore discs work just fine.
 
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