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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So time to decide.... PEEN my frame as suggested by Turner, or hold onto shock till PUSH makes a remote resivor modification :) . Im a heavy guy and ride hard so i wouldnt want to risk the chance of running it without clearence. Ill one day land wrong sending all my weight into the rear end......Tonight ill tear into the spot swapping shocks and cycling the suspension on the medium frame. Ill take some pics so you all can see the fit. Too bad the resivor couldnt rotate like the Magura Draco shock..... Wonder if i could excange for the 4.0 shock? The looks like it has alot more clearance according to the drawing... that is if the illustration is accurate. Its no great loss since the romic performs fine. I have no issues with it so far... the DHX was just a curiosity......
 

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oly said:
So time to decide.... PEEN my frame as suggested by Turner, or hold onto shock till PUSH makes a remote resivor modification :) . Im a heavy guy and ride hard so i wouldnt want to risk the chance of running it without clearence. Ill one day land wrong sending all my weight into the rear end......Tonight ill tear into the spot swapping shocks and cycling the suspension on the medium frame. Ill take some pics so you all can see the fit. Too bad the resivor couldnt rotate like the Magura Draco shock..... Wonder if i could excange for the 4.0 shock? The looks like it has alot more clearance according to the drawing... that is if the illustration is accurate. Its no great loss since the romic performs fine. I have no issues with it so far... the DHX was just a curiosity......
.............spoke with Jimmy from PUSH today. He said they have plans for a remote mod. for the DHX only (not RC). It is still in the future, but they will have some to show off for Interbike (for DHR's only). He said they plan to target the DHR first, and are unsure what others will be available for (depends on demand). Also, the remote mod will have to be ordered & paid ahead of time and they will only do the remote work in ADDITION to a revalve......so it sounds like a costly venture (in excess of $200). FYI
 

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Oly- you have nothing to lose by mounting it without the spring installed and put some careful weight on the seat and see how the piggyback bits approach the downtube. If you can make it contact at all, I personally would not run it. Even if Turner gives tacit assent to "peen" (what an innocuous sounding term) the tube, having the issue rolling around the back of your mind and cringing with every drop would just suck. Trade it in on a 4.0.

Personally, I can't get excited about remote reserviors. There seems to be some real desperation surrounding the need to run this shock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
tscheezy said:
Oly- you have nothing to lose by mounting it without the spring installed and put some careful weight on the seat and see how the piggyback bits approach the downtube. If you can make it contact at all, I personally would not run it. Even if Turner gives tacit assent to "peen" (what an innocuous sounding term) the tube, having the issue rolling around the back of your mind and cringing with every drop would just suck. Trade it in on a 4.0.

Personally, I can't get excited about remote reserviors. There seems to be some real desperation surrounding the need to run this shock.
JC- thanks for the tip there. 200 bucks is a bit excessive though..... i'd first do it to my DHR since thats my race bike and performance means more there. My XC trail bike works fine as is....

TSC..... Yea, ill mount it up and do the full fit test. From what ive heard it wont fit, but until i see it for myself i havent thrown in the towel. My only need to run the shock was getting a great deal on something new and maybe more advanced. Like i said the romic has no issues for me..... on the DHR or 5spot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, i do... but i cant say...... j/k

So it might not be a total loss. The guy ive dealt with at fox talked to another guy there who has a med spot that has no issues. Im pretty sure its a stock DHX also... not the 4.0 or other mix of the 2. I will still do my own testing. If worse comes to worse i may just trade back for the 4.0 and not have the big bottom knob...... haha BIG BOTTOM! Spinal tap right??
 

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This Pro-Pedal adjustment knob...

highroller said:
I suppose that "the bigger the cushion, the sweeter the pushin'", could also apply to bikes...well, in a different way :)
..."and talk about mud flaps, my bike's got 'em" :cool:
...goes up to 11!

:^)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, back to the topic.....

First thing i did when i mounted shock was to swap the metal air cap for a plastic one. I then compressed as much as i could. I put the bike upside down and put all my 240lbs into it with my camera on auto timer. Here are 2 photos.....

With plastic cap.....


....without cap to show more clearance.



I dont think i'd have much issue if i ran the shock without the BIG BOTTOM knob. Ill set the bottom control then remove it. I can keep it in my tool bag incase i need to adjust on the trail, but once its set i should be good. Right now the bottom out is set all the way in. I was thinking too with this control it should be real hard to bottom the shock anyways right??

Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, i guess i didnt tighten it down from where it was out or the box, but on tha canister there are lines (you can sorta see it on my pic). I assumed the first line was all the way IN. I did this all at 12:00 last night so i didnt spend alot of time with it...the manual says "3 rotations of adjustment and 3 corresponding indicator lines". So if im on the first line i assumed i was at full bottom out control. .

One Q i have regarding setup. In the manual it says it ships with the boost valve set to 150psi (my shock pump was at work so i couldnt check), then in the bottom out setup they say that bottom out should be adjusted with a MAX of 125psi. Does this sound odd? What if i like 150psi in the valve, do i have to back off the pressure to change bottom out, then add more air??

Youve probably posted this before, but what are your initial settings? Your weight? Spring weight? Valve pressure? Pro pedal setting.... ect. I figure youve done a little homework already and im the lazy kid who wants to look over your shoulder to get some answers......
 

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Oly:

The clearance on the Schrader valve looks like it could fly. What about taking a dremel to the bottom out wheel?

Hell, for that matter, what about lightly going over the Schrader valve as well?
 

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Oly- first off, the pics are brilliant. In a perfect world everyone would own a macro lense and have a passing understanding of lighting, composition, and Photoshop.

Secondly, the pics are perfectly horrifying. If you can make that thing touch under a static load, you are going to have to do something pretty aggressive to make it work in the real world like when the bottom-out bumper gets squished to the diameter of a dime.
 

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tscheezy said:
, and Photoshop..
what is that? ;)

tscheezy said:
,in the real world like when the bottom-out bumper gets squished to the diameter of a dime.
just what I was going to say...but then again it might bottom out on the spring before the bumper? I still wouldn't take any chances!!

but I think Damon already knew that's what I was going to say ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Aquaholic said:
Oly:

The clearance on the Schrader valve looks like it could fly. What about taking a dremel to the bottom out wheel?

Hell, for that matter, what about lightly going over the Schrader valve as well?
Both things ive thought of. Theres no reason why i couldnt 45 the valve end. If i use the plastic cap it will conform over any messed up threads and still go on. I also though about taking the blue knob off and having a 45 put on the end of it also. Only problem with that is i would loose some of the edge on the holesin the side. To adjust it you put a 4mm allen in there to get the leverage. It gets pretty hard to turn the further it goes in.

I just spun the blue knob all the way in and then out. I see now how the marks work. The setting pictured is in 1/2 way. There are 2 scribed lines and the edge of the sticker acts as the last, or "FULL" in.

Pic with blue knob removed...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
tscheezy said:
Oly- first off, the pics are brilliant. In a perfect world everyone would own a macro lense and have a passing understanding of lighting, composition, and Photoshop.

Secondly, the pics are perfectly horrifying. If you can make that thing touch under a static load, you are going to have to do something pretty aggressive to make it work in the real world like when the bottom-out bumper gets squished to the diameter of a dime.
Brilliant? I wouldnt go that far.... Just a mediocre camera on a tripod without a flash, and i dont think i had it on macro mode.....I do have a copy of photoshop, but dont know how to use it.

Horrifying..... I see your point. Thats why im approaching this pretty slow. I have no problems running the romic, it has been great so far. I also have other shocks in my hoard at home so I have other backups if my romic does develop problems..(a risse J7 and a manitou swinger 4way coil). Taking the knob off i gain space there.... the real bugger is the shrader valve. Ill take another round of photos without the knob on there. If all thats keeping me is the schrader valve then that can easily be clipped to make a bit more room.
 

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oly said:
Taking the knob off i gain space there.... the real bugger is the shrader valve. Ill take another round of photos without the knob on there. If all thats keeping me is the schrader valve then that can easily be clipped to make a bit more room.
....I do have to say, if you need to really dial in the bottomout adjuster to accomodate, you may seriously want to consider swapping out for the 4.0 if you can. It seems like it may actually offer you some performance gains over the extremely progressive 5.0 mod. IMHO...
 

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My 2 cents- I don't know anything about this shock, but the air chamber and bottom-out dial seem similiar to my Curnutt and what I've found is that if the dial is turned in too much, the shock feels too progressive and more like an air shock with less traction and less of a "plush" feeling. On the Curnett, the air chamber controls the platform and the dial adjusts the size of the air chamber which is supposed to make the shock more linear or progressive.

If the features are the same on the 2 shocks, you are probably not going to like how the shock feels with the dial all the way in. I have mine set at halfway and I pretty much keep it there, so if there is another model w/o the bottoming dial you might try that before altering the shock for fit reasons.
 

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HOLD THE PRESSES!

Oly's test is flawed.

You need to test with the lower spring perch installed because if you don't, the bottom-out bumper deforms around the lower portion of the shaft.

Having said that, the bottom out adjuster isn't a clearance issue on my large. The closest thing to the frame is the tip of the shraeder and I still have a good deal of clearance with my weight on the bike and the bump stop squished, even without the lower spring perch installed (tried to simulate pancaking).

As always, YMMV.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
jncarpenter said:
....I do have to say, if you need to really dial in the bottomout adjuster to accomodate, you may seriously want to consider swapping out for the 4.0 if you can. It seems like it may actually offer you some performance gains over the extremely progressive 5.0 mod. IMHO...
Well, i have no idea where it needs to be. Remember i put the shock on last night (this morning) at 12am. Im now just starting to be able to look more in depth. I didnt realize the stock setting was in the middle. Would you feel the need to adjust the bottom out during normal riding? Do you stop and go "theres a drop ahead, i better add BO control"", Or is it part of the inital set up that never changes once the shock is dialed?? If its a set and forget then removing the knob wouldnt be a big deal, other than it doesnt look as "cool". Im not even sure if the 600lb spring is correct either. I have my 650 romic spring thats a close fit. I can use the spring clip from the manitou since it fits a bit more snug than the new fox clip.

Im not sure i understand your meaning about the 4.0 vs 5.0?? What performance gains are there going down the line?
 
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