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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thinking of building up a trek 88 - what do you think of these parts on the weight side?

• Trek session 88 L
• 2010 Boxxer WC - 2698g
• BOS with Obtainium spring
• Formula the one – Carbon lever – Ashima rotors (185mm) – mix master
• Sram X.O Super Short – Token jockey wheels (11T) - Shimano Yumeya outer cable
• Dura Ace 7 speed (mod of 9 speed)
• KMC X9 SL chain – 242g
• Shimano XT cranks
• E13 36T Chainring - 37.26g
• KCNC chainring bolts – 8g
• LG1+ - 169g
• Raceface SixC handlebar – 225g/725mm
• Carbon top cap – aluminium bolt – Point one racing spacer
• Point one Limited edition racing DM stem – 113g
• Wellgo MG-1 with Ti axle – 304g
• Token Seat Clamp with Ti Bolt – 9.6g
• Hope Ceramic BB - 109g
• Crank Brothers Opium DH C Headset – 66g
• ODI X-Trainer MTB Lock-On grips – 106g
• DT Swiss 5.1 rims/Chris King 836g rear/ 666g front
• Selle Italia saddle SLR – 135g
• Thomson Masterpiece seat post - 158g/240mm
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
not sure yet but im hoping around 35 pounds, trying to find the lightest parts before i start buying. My currant rig is 42.7 pounds and i think 8 pounds off will make a MASSIVE difference in my riding and riding style.
 

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You may not be able to get the Ashima rotor & Formula brake combo to work, bearing in mind Formula use specific rotors that are thinner.

Also, I'd recommend the new Twenty6 Prerunner Ti pedals over the MG-1's. The Prerunners are 256g for a set.

A SRS+ backplate mated to a carbon fibre bashguard is lighter than a LG1+ setup.

Ti and alloy bolts are a must, you generally get a ~45% weight loss off your existing bolts (with a FS frame including pivot bolts you're looking at ~300g+ of steel bolts). Depending on your chosen alloy content.

And tires? Surely you can't go for dual ply anchors with scooter tubes on a build like that. Give some 2.4 Scwalbe tires with the snakeskin folding carcass a go.
 

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You can get lighter (but still trustworthy) pedals (Prerunner), BB (Shimano or Reset), and hubs (guess what...). And for what it's worth, I've seen newish MG-1 Ti pedals weighing in at 290g, so could lose an instant 10 grams!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
dhpete, surely Ti bolts on a DH frame are a strict no no?

And what about maxxis single ply 2.4 with tubeless?

nwd_26 could you link me to some of these lighter BBs? i cant find them

now im not even sure im the xt cranks will fit, they fit 68mm/73mm with spacers but im not sure whether the frame is 83?

Could you link me to these carbon bashguards? The SRS+ backplate is 121g actual so unless teh carbon bashguard is under 48g it is not worth it...
 

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bare with me I don't know a lot about downhill bikes....
Could you run ZTR Flow's? seems like i remember hearing about some downhiller running them at worlds.
Shimano XT/XTR bottom brackets are lighter, but not ceramic.
SLX cranks are pretty close in weight and are supposedly stronger. (not positive on that one)
 

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Ti bolts are fine. Just take into consideration the forces put upon them and those that you find overly questionable don't replace. However I can't see anywhere they would be too weak for.

Maxxis single ply's setup tubeless should be fine, or even some of their LUST range.

XT cranks need to be modified to fit, you can find guides on how to do this with a quick bit of Googling.

Shimano Stock BB's are generally under 90g a peice, including the plastic sleeve. You save another 6g by not using the sleeve. I've had a Hope ceramic and the added bling is all that it gives you.

Didn't notice you were going to use a 36t ring, in that case a LG1+ setup will be lighter. 32-34t wise you can use a MRP carbon bash with a SRS+ and it'll save 20g off a LG1+ setup.
 

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If money is not and object and you're on the lighter side then have a look at some THM Clavicula DH crankset. Equip it with one of Mattias's Ti rings and you're set with about the lightest DH crankset available.
 

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With the posted setup and single ply tires that bike would likely be in the mid to high 33's. However as one other poster said, I'd like to see whats left of the bike after a hard DH run.

Are you a really light, smooth, or slow rider? If 2 out of those three apply then you might be able to get away with that setup.

I've got my DH bike pretty light (36.2lbs) and it's a Transition Blindside, which the frame is about a pound heavier than a Session 88. Althought I'm running a Roco Air rear shock which ends up making the frame weights about the same (S88 with coil+ti).

Here are the parts I suggest to definitely not weight weenie out on.
1) Rotors. I suggest using standard Formula rotors 203/180.
2) Rims. Get something a little beefier than the 5.1, or buy several spare rims and learn to re-build wheels. At least something beefier on the rear wheel.
3) Tires. Do not skimp and get single ply tires. Get some Maxxis Dual Ply tires and set them up tubeless.
4) Cranks. I'm pretty sure that XT cranks won't work with that frame unless you mod them. I suggest getting Saints.
5) RD. Don't waste your money on a X-0. Just get a X-9 Short Cage. You're going to destroy a couple of RD's in a season anyway


With my suggestions, and the rest of the parts you speced, the bike will likely be 35 pounds, and be better to handle DH without constant replacing of parts.
 

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Steve Peat had his DH bike at 36.4lbs if I remember correctly for Canberra, running 3 ti bolts holding each rotor on. All Ti and Alu bolts, 160/140mm rotors, xc tubes and won the world championships. Obviously he's got backing to replace all parts but, he's going to punish a DH bike in a weekend more than most would in 1/2 a season, so you'll be fine with the parts listed.
 

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parkrider said:
Steve Peat had his DH bike at 36.4lbs if I remember correctly for Canberra, running 3 ti bolts holding each rotor on. All Ti and Alu bolts, 160/140mm rotors, xc tubes and won the world championships. Obviously he's got backing to replace all parts but, he's going to punish a DH bike in a weekend more than most would in 1/2 a season, so you'll be fine with the parts listed.
If you notice on Peaty's ride, he didn't skimp on the wheels and tires though. The rotors also were 185/160mm.

I disagree with Peaty punishing that bike more that weekend than most would in a 1/2 seaon. First Pro's are super smooth and rarely crash, second the worlds course was about as tame as a DH course could be. Some riders were using AM bikes, air shocks, single crowns etc.
 

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oldskoolbiker said:
If you notice on Peaty's ride, he didn't skimp on the wheels and tires though. The rotors also were 185/160mm.

I disagree with Peaty punishing that bike more that weekend than most would in a 1/2 seaon. First Pro's are super smooth and rarely crash, second the worlds course was about as tame as a DH course could be. Some riders were using AM bikes, air shocks, single crowns etc.
dt aerolite spokes and xc worthy tyres?
160/140mm according to latest mbuk as well.
 
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