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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ride a 5" travel FS bike that I use for XC / trail use - no big hucks , drops, or jumping, mostly singletrack. Over the past few seasons I have had a couple rear hub failures and that is too many in my opinion, none of the failures were due to lack of maintenance. Would it be so out of bounds to run a DH rear hub ? Seems like so many hubs are under built in order to shave grams. Weigh wise my current hub sits @ 310g and the DH hub weighs in @ 517g. Thanks.
 

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Tell what rear hub(s) you've been using getting the failures, and your riding weight (including gear and water).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
4slomo said:
Tell what rear hub(s) you've been using getting the failures, and your riding weight (including gear and water).
210lb with gear. Last hub to fail was a Halo Supa drive, hub before that Ringle Flea. I have also noticed any aluminum freehub I use gets some serious grooves w/ plenty of lube / torqued (XT cassette).
 

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keen said:
210lb with gear. Last hub to fail was a Halo Supa drive, hub before that Ringle Flea. I have also noticed any aluminum freehub I use gets some serious grooves w/ plenty of lube / torqued (XT cassette).
That's the nature of an aluminum freehub body. Not familiar with those hubs, but how exactly did they fail?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Bikinfoolferlife said:
That's the nature of an aluminum freehub body. Not familiar with those hubs, but how exactly did they fail?
Spun the pawl ring gears inside the hub shell. Like I mentioned it seems like so many components are under built to shave weight.
 

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keen said:
Spun the pawl ring gears inside the hub shell. Like I mentioned it seems like so many components are under built to shave weight.
Or you could get a fully rebuildable hub with a quality engagement mechanism...I like Kings. Never ever a freehub problem, but I do keep my hubs maintained. Don't like pawls.
 

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A DH hub is designed for big hits, and the spacing may be too wide.

Instead, consider a tandem hub, or a heavy duty hub model with a steel freehub, designed for higher torques. King is one good example.

Are you cranking hard in too high a gear, instead of shifting down on climbs?
 

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Hubs, even the not-so-bling ones, tend to be fairly tough things. At your weight and riding style, multiple failures are kind of odd.

How about something like an XT? Not overly pricey, not overly light, well sealed and serviceable. The only things you don't get are easily replaced cartidge bearings (no big deal) and sexy anodised colours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I went w/ the Halo Supa Drive because it had high POE 120, was 4x tested by manufacture and was 1/3 the cost of a King. I wasn't 100% sure I would keep the wheelset so I figured not too dump too much $$. Previously I had a King SS freehub & Funn bolts - was great but I don't have $400 + for a hub now. I got pretty spoiled by fast engaging hubs otherwise there are plenty inexpensive heavy duty hubs i'd consider. Not sure I want to venture in the Shimano realm as I had my fill of ball & cone hubs.
 

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Hadley is a strong hub

I agree with Mtnbiker72, go with Hadley, they come with a titanium freehub body with either 36 or 72 point engagement. Hadley hubs can be converted between DH 12mm to 10mm or QR. Hadley claims a weight of 360 grams, I think that is without the skewer or bolt. I have a 36 point engagement Hadley 12mm thru-axle, I have been racing DH and free riding with mine for 8 years with original bearings and pawls.
Erik,
Balle Racing
www.balleracing.com
 

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i got a brand new pair at home just weighted them.

front draco 185g
rear 135x9mm 350g drop me ur email if u want pics for proof..
 

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I have had solid results using Hadley and Shimano Saint thru bolt hubs. Yeah they are a bit heavier, but they take the abuse of a healthy clydesdale without complaint. As a bonus they require very little maintenance. I have 4 Saint hubs running and have more than a season on one set without so much as needing to adjust the cones. I finally broke down and bought the oversize cone wrenches last week ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Jhanney said:
i got a brand new pair at home just weighted them.

front draco 185g
rear 135x9mm 350g drop me ur email if u want pics for proof..
I am guessing they have 48 POE ? Do you know what kind of pawl spring arrangement they use ?
 

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Another vote for Hadley. Been running them for years on my uphill and downhill bikes with no issues, after killing three Shimano hubs in 6 months and mangling a King aluminum freehub body. I find that 36pt engagement is enough for extremely technical climbs and skinnies where you have to ratchet the pedals, (18pt is not enough, 72 is more than enough).
 

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Halo are quite open with the fact that their supadrive is not a heavy duty hub.

Halo might let you part exchange to a spin doctor, harder wearing and simple to replace pawls/ratchets if they break.

I use the CK 150, that hub can take abuse, quite pricy though.

Hope pro 2 is another amazing hub. very strong, very light and easy to get spare parts if something goes wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Halo are quite open with the fact that their supadrive is not a heavy duty hub

Well their advertising say's : "The Supadrive rear hub has been on tested with our 4X team racer for 9 months... and still going strong. despite it's featherweight 310g mass" - that sure sounds like they are implying it will stand up to abuse.
 

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well.. advertising depts lie. not much more to say past that. you dont need a boatanchor hub, you just need a good hub. the halo and flea hub arent cornerstones of the mtb hub market like a pro2, or king, dt, or hadley hub is.. but like someone said, dh hubs are made to be strong in another way, not for pedaling torque.
 
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