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biking is fun
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My reverb should be showing up tomorrow or wed and I am curious how everyone is running their cables. If you could post a picture your deliriums with the reverb I would appreciate it.

I am running 1X10 so I do have the extra cable guides that are typically for the FD so Im considering just using those but would love to see how everyone else did it
 

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Here is my current cable routing, and I am not sure if I will change it up.

Initially, I had run it down the seat tube, thru the linkage and then up the cable stops for the front der. I didn't like where/how the cable slacked and ended up sticking out from the frame. I also didn't want to get it pinched in the linkage somehow, but it all looked clear.

Now, with this routing (shorter hose), I just run it through the RS Reverb guide tied to the seat tube and it has a long unsecured loop that goes up to the top cable guide, then to the remote (mounted upside-down on the left side, one of the benefits of the 1x9 setup - VERY clean and ergonomically friendly).

With this routing, you can see where the cable accumulates when the seatpost is slammed. When it is extended, it more closely follows the top contour of the shock. It doesn't bow out towards my legs and I don't see it being a real problem of snagging trees or anything. I'll be watching the cable for any signs of wear that have to do with it touching the linkage on the outside, as I anticipate it might be in contact too much over the course of time.

I really don't want cable slack accumulating out back of the seat tube where the wheel will catch it - I've seen that happen with several different setups and looks like a quick way to end up with a hose worn out/ripped out mid-ride.
 

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climbingbubba said:
Thanks for posting that up. I am really hoping it shows up today.

Also, good looking delirium
Thanks man, and thanks for the initial guidance!

Play with the routing on yours and see if you can come up with something...I'd try a different setup (have considered zip-ties to the TT, but that leaves the coil of cable off the back) if I could find one that worked with less unsecured routing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
CharacterZero said:
yes, pain in the butt and waaayyyy to many zip ties. With how much it needs to be able to move I couldn't figure out a great way for it to go. This way works ok but the line sure moves a lot in the process. never had the same problems with my old KS. So far this is my only complaint though



Although the reverb seems to be smooth and do its job I am getting sick of the cables that attach by the seat. Can't wait for these to come out from KS.

• 125mm of total drop (infinite adjustment)
• Cable actuation located on the front of the outer tube
• Internal changes mean lower air pressure for lighter actuation
• unique bond-less seat post head design
• Release date: March/April 2012
• Weight: 400 grams (target weight)
 

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Switch the Remote....

If you switch the remote to the underside of your left side of the handlebars it will have less clutter. I think you run 2x, so it still might be a bit of clutter. Don't run it through the bottom cable guide, it allows for it to go up and down smoother. Also, the cable guide that is provided should go near the bottom of your seat tube. Pardon my infantile attempt at Adobe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dominator13 said:
If you switch the remote to the underside of your left side of the handlebars it will have less clutter. I think you run 2x, so it still might be a bit of clutter. Don't run it through the bottom cable guide, it allows for it to go up and down smoother. Also, the cable guide that is provided should go near the bottom of your seat tube. Pardon my infantile attempt at Adobe.
Well it is on the underside of the left side, I am running 1x10, and the cable isn't long enough to do as your diagram suggests. We tried a ton of things and this is the best so far.
 

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I'll muster up and giv'er a good cleaning this evening, measure the BB height and then take some photos of the routing. I have a (L) and run 1 x 10, as well and have no problem with the length, if anything it's too long!?
 

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Dominator13 said:
I'll muster up and giv'er a good cleaning this evening, measure the BB height and then take some photos of the routing. I have a (L) and run 1 x 10, as well and have no problem with the length, if anything it's too long!?
Yeah, I don't think my original cable reached down that far, and I didn't like the way the slack accumulated so low - seemed to be a liability for snagging on something.

Next to the Reverb, the 1x9 drivetrain I have is the best thing to happen to my riding lately. Both offer great benefits and I couldn't be happier.
 

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climbingbubba said:
Although the reverb seems to be smooth and do its job I am getting sick of the cables that attach by the seat. Can't wait for these to come out from KS.
When I look at this picture: and imagine it on a large framed Delirium: All I can think is: ALIEN ANAL PROBE!

Seriously, the angle of the seat tube plus the height of the seat tube over the top tube could spell disaster for your sphincter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
CharacterZero said:
Yeah, I don't think my original cable reached down that far, and I didn't like the way the slack accumulated so low - seemed to be a liability for snagging on something.

Next to the Reverb, the 1x9 drivetrain I have is the best thing to happen to my riding lately. Both offer great benefits and I couldn't be happier.
agreed, adjustable seatposts make for fun times. Now you just have to go 1x10 :thumbsup:
 

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You know how much I hate taking pictures of my bike!

I run the CC Angleset in the - 1.5* setting, 180mm fork, and the Large Delirium in the slackest setting. The BB height is 13-3/4". The routing of the Reverb seat post remote cable is run down the seat tube with the provided cable guide at the bottom of the seat tube. I don't use the bottom Delirium Cable Guide, just the other two. There is slack in the line when the seat is in the "down" position. The line is taught when in the "up" position. Hope this helps answer a few questions. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks dom,

That seems like a high BB measurement for being in the slack position and with an angleset.

I measured my 180 talas with an external headset in the slackest position and mine was right around 13.6. It seems like slackening it and running a shorter stack height headset would drop it quite low. I would have guessed yours would be around 13.3 or so.

So do you miss your jedi at all or does this beast fill its spot enough?
 

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Just the look of it.

climbingbubba said:
So do you miss your jedi at all or does this beast fill its spot enough?
The Jedi is a machining marvel. To look at one is inspiring. The Delirium feels better and I can accomplish 95% of what I would do on the Jedi on the Delirium when I beef it up. It is snappier, pedals better, jumps better and just feels more in contact with the ground. The area I'll miss is when I cased a jump the Jedi was soooooo forgiving. I guess I can't case anymore jumps! :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Dominator13 said:
The Jedi is a machining marvel. To look at one is inspiring. The Delirium feels better and I can accomplish 95% of what I would do on the Jedi on the Delirium when I beef it up. It is snappier, pedals better, jumps better and just feels more in contact with the ground. The area I'll miss is when I cased a jump the Jedi was soooooo forgiving. I guess I can't case anymore jumps! :p
I know how you feel, I also had an 08 jedi and it was an awesome bike. The new 2011's look amazing and now that they bumped the travel and slackened it a bunch it looks like it would be a rad plow bike.
 

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So mine is like Dom's now, with only a little more slack in the line than he has. I managed this by using a hair-thing (rubber bandish scrunchy thing? like a cloth-coated rubber band) that is on the BB on the non-drive side, hooked to one of the reverb cable-joiners to pull the slack where I want it. Hope the pics explain better than I do - I needed the elasticity of the rubber band without the friction that would keep it from retracting while in contact with the frame.





 

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I have one of the first batch of Reverbs and my hose is no where near long enough for that routing. I am run along the bottom of the top-tube...

Anybody got a part# for the longer hose....or anything aftermarket work?
I heard they (Reverb Hydro hose) were a weird size....

As well, I have a bent hose-barb on the remote...
I moved it from right to left for more protection, but when I went down and did my ribs I also crunched the lever. Thanks for the great advice Guys...
So do I need a new lever assembly or can the barb be changed? Obviously I have not taken it apart or even looked at it very closely, it's working so I'm a leavin it alone until the snow flys. Then its dick-with-it time.

Thoughts?

michael
 

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Interesting adaptation. Might have to give that one a try.
 

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Interesting adaptation. Might have to give that one a try.
Yeah, had to fight off my inclination to save weight ;)!

It works to keep the cable loop from bowing to the side and coming into the crank arms/etc.

Definitlely didn't work as well until I used two guides on the seat tube to guide it down, luckily I have a plethora of SRAM bits, as this is my third Reverb.
 
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