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Stood on my questionable home scale this morning and it had me at 187#s in street clothes.
Cascade link, Arma, 650# spring, I got exactly 15.7mm sag in the seated position with the lightest possible spring preload. Just enough spring preload so that the spring doesn't rattle. Cascade recommends 15.1mm sag at the shock shaft but I found about 16.2 mm to work better for me on the Cascade with the air shock.
I've noticed the springs do sag a bit more once they are ridden.
Anyways, this spring is certainly close enough that I'm going to be able to make it work.
The Arma is the lightest reservoir coil shock, the new springs are lighter than the old ones although the Cascade requires a considerably stiffer rate. Yet still the EXT is 300 grams heavier than the DPX2 which in combination with the Cascade link performs freakin' phenomenally. That weight gain is hard for me to stomach. It's going to need to be damn amazing for me to keep the EXT for trail riding.
I'm waiting on a small part and can't ride just yet, unfortunately. Will update when I do.


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If it rides better with the coil you need to think are you going to carry your bike or ride it, weighing everything can make you go crazy.

I was worried about the weight of coil, but once I rode it I actually found my bike climbed better and also went downhill better. So I dont worry anymore

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If it rides better with the coil you need to think are you going to carry your bike or ride it, weighing everything can make you go crazy.

I was worried about the weight of coil, but once I rode it I actually found my bike climbed better and also went downhill better. So I dont worry anymore

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No doubt that performance matters more than weight. I only go lightweight when there is no loss of performance. It's just, that dialed DPX2 with the Cascade is flat amazing. I've never ridden a rear suspension that worked that well. I don't want to gain 2/3#, for a negligible performance improvement. Have a friend that timed himself on his air shocks vs. his Push shocks and he realized that he wasn't any faster on the Push shocks so why bother?

That said I sincerely hope I like the Arma/ 650# & Cascade better than the air shock as I already own it. It certainly provides a reliability benefit when at a resort out of town or something. If you've ever had an air shock fail while on a bike trip as I have, it isn't fun! I did notably prefer the Arma on the stock link, over the DPX2 on the stock link it's just the Cascade really elevated the overall performance of the DPX2.

Actually I suspect that air shocks are the future of MTB rear shocks and coils are the past. This may also turn out to be true on motorcycles as KTM is really working on their air shock these days. Weight & getting the correct spring-rate are major issues with coils. And on some models, there is even a reliability issue with the coil shock shafts. Lots of racers seem to be on air as well. We'll see.
 

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It is crazy how fast the Evo is even in rough terrain. One of my friends is thinking about getting an Enduro so he rode mine and I rode the Evo. While the ride of the Evo is definitely more harsh the bike just moves. The one trail where I opened it up I took 16 seconds off my PR on a 4 minute trail. Every other descent I was within a few seconds of my PR's even though I was taking it easy.

Although I like the feel of my Enduro better, the Evo is at least as fast even on trails that should be better suited to the Enduro. The Evo is an insanely capable machine. That is all....
As soon as the trail points downhill the bike accelerates. It’s the first thing I noticed when I got the bike.
 

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There is a stumpjumper Evo expert S4 at the Kimberley, BC bike shop, as of last Tuesday. For anyone still looking for one.
 

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Anyone running a v1 one up components chain guide at all? It sits incredibly close to the main pivot bolt area even at max furthest away adjustment

Worried as the rear suspension moves it will take the paint off

It’s just the top guide version but the original one
Just installed the V2 chain guide / bash guard tonight. It took 4 shims but otherwise fits like a glove.

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Got close to a 20 mile ride on the new mullet config. Very interesting change. I have done this ride 4 total times but only recorded strava twice so anything gold was a win and silver was a loss against the same bike in full 29er. The 27.5 wheel was taken off my HD4 and had the same sram cassette and older version Onyx hub. The tire is a full DH double down minion DHF that is a noticeable difference at 1390g vs the minion EXO 29 at 1017g I had on previously.

So my initial feedback is this. The mullet accelerates better, especially when you are spinning up a short rise or need to get over an obstacle. The mullet pumps better and performs better on flow trail terrain. I had better traction standing up and pedaling up climbs (this was surprising to me). The mullet was quicker in side to side cornering transitions (think tree slalom). The mullet was easier to manual and pop when at speed but was less stable during manuals and on landings. Drifting the mullet, berm slapping and sliding around switchbacks was a blast. The mullet set PRs in every downhill except a fast sandy section and was slower by 3s. The mullet was easier to make line changes and you were rewarded more by doing so (less of a plow bike). The mullet was more fun, but more reckless.

Now the negatives. The mullet didn't carry speed on the rolling terrain nearly as good as the 29. Climbing was slower in every strava segment. I felt more fatigued at the end of the ride with the mullet. Square hits tended to hang up the rear wheel and slow you down more, making me go around rocks more than through them, especially when climbing. I didn't have a lot of pedaly rock gardens on this ride but I do in most of my local trails and I think the mullet would suffer in those spots.

Overall, I'm left feeling that the mullet was more fun but slower overall and more fatiguing. Is the mullet worth it? Right now I would say no, mostly because I built the bike as a 29. I am definitely the active type of rider that prefers to pop over stuff than ride through it, but the overall speed of the 29 has me reluctant to change. I also ride long technical rocky climbs that tend to wear you out and the rear wheel hang ups can definitely add up. I'm 42 yrs old. Am I ready to sacrifice a little fun for speed? Maybe I am. A long time 29er skeptic and hater, turned hypocrite. I guess for now that's true.
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Got close to a 20 mile ride on the new mullet config. Very interesting change. I have done the the ride 4 total times but only done strava twice so anything gold was a win and silver was a loss against the same bike in full 29er. The 27.5 wheel was taken off my HD4 and had the same sram cassette and older version Onyx hub. The tire is a full DH double down minion DHF that is a noticeable difference at 1390g vs the minion EXO 29 at 1017g I had on previously.

So my initial feedback is this. The mullet accelerates better, especially when you are spinning up a short rise or need to get over an obstacle. The mullet pumps better and performs better on flow trail terrain. I had better traction standing up and pedaling up climbs (this was surprising to me). The mullet was quicker in side to side cornering transitions (think tree slalom). The mullet was easier to manual and pop when at speed but was less stable during manuals and on landings. Drifting the mullet, berm slapping and sliding around switchbacks was a blast. The mullet set PRs in every downhill except a fast sandy section and was slower by 3s. The mullet was easier to make line changes and you were rewarded more by doing so (less of a plow bike). The mullet was more fun, but more reckless.

Now the negatives. The mullet didn't carry speed on the rolling terrain nearly as good as the 29. Climbing was slower in every strava segment. I felt more fatigued at the end of the ride with the mullet. Square hits tended to hang up the rear wheel and slow you down more, making me go around rocks more than through them, especially when climbing. I didn't have a lot of pedaly rock gardens on this ride but I do in most of my local trails and I think the mullet would suffer in those spots.

Overall, I'm left feeling that the mullet was more fun but slower overall and more fatiguing. Is the mullet worth it? Right now I would say no, mostly because I built the bike as a 29. I am definitely the active type of rider that prefers to pop over stuff than ride through it, but the overall speed of the 29 has me reluctant to change. I also ride long technical rocky climbs that tend to wear you out and the rear wheel hang ups can definitely add up. I'm 42 yrs old. Am I ready to sacrifice a little fun for speed? Maybe I am. A long time 29er skeptic and hater, turned hypocrite. I guess for now that's true. View attachment 1925520
Its probably more fatuiging because you have a DH casing vs an EXO, I actually found the Mullet less tiring over a long ride but I run DD casing on both options and always will.


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Hello!
Haven't seen much info on how rockshox super deluxe feels on EVO. If any1 experienced this combo - can you share your thoughts on that?
I'm thinking about buying comp version and rebuilding it completely (frame only wont be available for long times) and super deluxe is much cheaper than fox's shocks
 

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Got close to a 20 mile ride on the new mullet config. Very interesting change. I have done this ride 4 total times but only recorded strava twice so anything gold was a win and silver was a loss against the same bike in full 29er. The 27.5 wheel was taken off my HD4 and had the same sram cassette and older version Onyx hub. The tire is a full DH double down minion DHF that is a noticeable difference at 1390g vs the minion EXO 29 at 1017g I had on previously.

So my initial feedback is this. The mullet accelerates better, especially when you are spinning up a short rise or need to get over an obstacle. The mullet pumps better and performs better on flow trail terrain. I had better traction standing up and pedaling up climbs (this was surprising to me). The mullet was quicker in side to side cornering transitions (think tree slalom). The mullet was easier to manual and pop when at speed but was less stable during manuals and on landings. Drifting the mullet, berm slapping and sliding around switchbacks was a blast. The mullet set PRs in every downhill except a fast sandy section and was slower by 3s. The mullet was easier to make line changes and you were rewarded more by doing so (less of a plow bike). The mullet was more fun, but more reckless.

Now the negatives. The mullet didn't carry speed on the rolling terrain nearly as good as the 29. Climbing was slower in every strava segment. I felt more fatigued at the end of the ride with the mullet. Square hits tended to hang up the rear wheel and slow you down more, making me go around rocks more than through them, especially when climbing. I didn't have a lot of pedaly rock gardens on this ride but I do in most of my local trails and I think the mullet would suffer in those spots.

Overall, I'm left feeling that the mullet was more fun but slower overall and more fatiguing. Is the mullet worth it? Right now I would say no, mostly because I built the bike as a 29. I am definitely the active type of rider that prefers to pop over stuff than ride through it, but the overall speed of the 29 has me reluctant to change. I also ride long technical rocky climbs that tend to wear you out and the rear wheel hang ups can definitely add up. I'm 42 yrs old. Am I ready to sacrifice a little fun for speed? Maybe I am. A long time 29er skeptic and hater, turned hypocrite. I guess for now that's true. View attachment 1925520

DH two ply casing is different from DD, both plenty heavier than EXO. Many World Cup DH athletes would disagree with your assessment of a mullet setup in regards to going around rock gardens. I didn't feel that was an issue either. I agree with you about perceived wheel spin up being quicker. My climbing times were no different on strava, although I do push a bigger gear with the 27.5 wheel. In the end I like the taller BB with a 29" wheel in the mullet link. So many options! I also agree the mullet is definitely more fun though!
 

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There are a couple people running Super Deluxe Ultimates I believe and have positive reports. I was all set to buy one to try out but no availability at least here in the US.

In other news I've fitted my Cascade Link now too and although I only have one ride on it and it was on fairly mellow blue and black flow trails and then towing my kids back up the hill I am a big fan of the Cascade link. Definitely helps the bike manage it's travel better for an aggressive rider and I would say it pedals better too although not by a huge margin.

One thing that anyone should do, stock link or aftermarket is to redo their suspension linkages. None of my bolts had any measurable grease. Just by meticulously reassembling with correct amounts of grease and I feel I've picked up quite a bit of suppleness in the suspension. In other words there is now way less friction in the linkage. It's not really a ding on Specialized, there aren't any mass produced bikes assembled with hyper critical attention to detail. Some nice gains to be had by doing so though.
 

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Hello!
Haven't seen much info on how rockshox super deluxe feels on EVO. If any1 experienced this combo - can you share your thoughts on that?
I'm thinking about buying comp version and rebuilding it completely (frame only wont be available for long times) and super deluxe is much cheaper than fox's shocks

Scroll up. I sold my EXT because I think the M/M tune on the super deluxe is perfect. I even sold my Cascade link without riding it.
 

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There are a couple people running Super Deluxe Ultimates I believe and have positive reports. I was all set to buy one to try out but no availability at least here in the US.

In other news I've fitted my Cascade Link now too and although I only have one ride on it and it was on fairly mellow blue and black flow trails and then towing my kids back up the hill I am a big fan of the Cascade link. Definitely helps the bike manage it's travel better for an aggressive rider and I would say it pedals better too although not by a huge margin.

One thing that anyone should do, stock link or aftermarket is to redo their suspension linkages. None of my bolts had any measurable grease. Just by meticulously reassembling with correct amounts of grease and I feel I've picked up quite a bit of suppleness in the suspension. In other words there is now way less friction in the linkage. It's not really a ding on Specialized, there aren't any mass produced bikes assembled with hyper critical attention to detail. Some nice gains to be had by doing so though.
With sealed bearings is that really an issue? I would assume greasing the bolts would only attract dirt and create creaking.
 

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With sealed bearings is that really an issue? I would assume greasing the bolts would only attract dirt and create creaking.
I think the win has more to do with greasing the shafts and inner face of the pivot bolts. As the bearing rotates those bolts are static so there is some rotation, albeit small against a non rotating surface.

The way I did it was to just use small amounts of teflon grease and then thoroughly wipe away any excess with a pass of shop rags and then old t shirt. It didn't attract any measurable dirt yesterday out in some very fine dirt and dust. I'll continue to monitor though. Also FWIW the Cascade install video did recommend greasing as well. I had already done so but wanted to see what they recommended for install order.
 

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Was thinking the same. I always take my shock off and cycle the sus on a new bike. I also check the torque values and just give a good once-over. The pivot hardware, engineering & execution is REALLY well done on the stumpy Evo. Very nice.

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With sealed bearings is that really an issue? I would assume greasing the bolts would only attract dirt and create creaking.
I have had major issues with my Enduro main pivot even with the bearing linkage setup. My problem wasn't greasing the bolts it was the TQ on the main pivot. From the factory it was so over spec that the bearings were destroyed within 50 miles. Even at recommended TQ there was noticeable binding and loss of small bump sensitivity. After going way lower on the TQ (and way up on the Loctite) it is a beast now.
 

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I have had major issues with my Enduro main pivot even with the bearing linkage setup. My problem wasn't greasing the bolts it was the TQ on the main pivot. From the factory it was so over spec that the bearings were destroyed within 50 miles. Even at recommended TQ there was noticeable binding and loss of small bump sensitivity. After going way lower on the TQ (and way up on the Loctite) it is a beast now.
You come across anything similar on the stumpy?

I had that issue on my Spitfire, was just a shite design.

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Has anyone found the evo rattly? The swat box if it’s half full seems to rattle a lot and leaves a hollow dull noise vibrating through the frame if you don’t fill it all up drove me insane today till I took it out

unless it could be something else but I checked all the usual suspects for looseness rattling etc
 

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Has anyone found the evo rattly? The swat box if it’s half full seems to rattle a lot and leaves a hollow dull noise vibrating through the frame if you don’t fill it all up drove me insane today till I took it out

unless it could be something else but I checked all the usual suspects for looseness rattling etc
I only have two rides but I def have the rattling shimano brake pads I’ve heard so many talk about. That was the only thing I noticed
 

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I only have two rides but I def have the rattling shimano brake pads I’ve heard so many talk about. That was the only thing I noticed
Yeh I’m on sram brakes so not that and came from a previous bike too

feels totally silent and solid when dropped stone dead stationary with no rattle what so ever

has like a hollow knock/rattle descending but just hoping it’s the half full swat box moving in side
 
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