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I'm a high & slack guy. I really like the 63.5' hta. It's strange cause on my old short CS bike even 65' felt a bit slack and hard to manage on climbs but the 63.5' on the Evo feels perfect.

One bash-guard usage in 4 months is a crazy thought to me. With current geo I'd say I hit my bash guard 2-3x per 12 mile ride and hit my pedals about 20x on that same ride. Just speaks to the difference in terrain.
 

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I'm a high & slack guy. I really like the 63.5' hta. It's strange cause on my old short CS bike even 65' felt a bit slack and hard to manage on climbs but the 63.5' on the Evo feels perfect.

One bash-guard usage in 4 months is a crazy thought to me. With current geo I'd say I hit my bash guard 2-3x per 12 mile ride and hit my pedals about 20x on that same ride. Just speaks to the difference in terrain.
I live in Socal and honestly our terrain is so chunky but a lot of times you are just gapping over rock sections since its higher speed and less jagged rock sections. When I ride in Aliso, Laguna, SC ive never used it, but the one time I rode in Greer was actually when I hit it. When I ride in Norcal I will use it much more often since its more awkward riding. It also makes a much bigger difference which bash guard you use, my MRP Bash Guard is just low enough to save my chainring but I've had others that waste a bit of space and can lose the advantage of the clearance. For me I prefer the low chip for the longer chainstay and I will use 165 cranks and my low profile bash guard to deal with the lower BB.

Its all a compromise, I just love the feeling in corners and on high speed tracks with the longer rear end. And everyone I know hits their bash on the top section of insidous at Greer, so maybe its just normal.
 

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I'm going to test my wife's 165s on my bike soon as I'm curious.

Running the 30T 77 Designz bash-guard and it definitely doesn't waste space.

Our terrain is awkward and chunky much of the time. I rarely hit while moving fast, it's the slow janky stuff where you have to be pedaling or you just stop otherwise that I usually make contact.

At first the number of pedal strikes on the Evo was really concerning but as long as I run my shock settings just so I can deal. Also a bit taller rear tire has been a surprising help to ground clearance as well.
 

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^ Nice. Super cool to have a bike that allows such experimentation. I've only been running mine in High/Slack and really like it that way.

Once I get the Cascade link installed and some time on it I am tempted to try a 170mm fork. I like my front end maybe a bit soft and I think that on steeps it's making the bike sit a little low then. So the Cascade link making the bike 158mm and then a 170mm fork might bring some balance and raise capability without much downside in theory.
The only thing that worries about about the cascade link (if I’m assuming correctly) is that the BB is even lower at max travel with the extra 8mm of travel? I folded a chainring on my old enduro (at buff creek of all places). If it doesn’t raise the back end at all I don’t think extending fork travel will do anything for balance. Like you, I like my fork a little more soft and I also think the 170 is perfect on this bike. I actually ordered a 160 air shaft for my Zeb but haven’t felt the need to even try it
 

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The only thing that worries about about the cascade link (if I’m assuming correctly) is that the BB is even lower at max travel with the extra 8mm of travel? I folded a chainring on my old enduro (at buff creek of all places). If it doesn’t raise the back end at all I don’t think extending fork travel will do anything for balance. Like you, I like my fork a little more soft and I also think the 170 is perfect on this bike. I actually ordered a 160 air shaft for my Zeb but haven’t felt the need to even try it
Yes I think also that the extra travel would probably reduce the BB height at max travel. Axle path at that point is definitely going in and up so makes sense. I ride flats so BB height is even more of a concern as in my opinion flats have less clearance than most clips.

Good to hear you are still liking the 170mm fork! I think I will order an air spring.
 

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The only thing that worries about about the cascade link (if I’m assuming correctly) is that the BB is even lower at max travel with the extra 8mm of travel? I folded a chainring on my old enduro (at buff creek of all places). If it doesn’t raise the back end at all I don’t think extending fork travel will do anything for balance. Like you, I like my fork a little more soft and I also think the 170 is perfect on this bike. I actually ordered a 160 air shaft for my Zeb but haven’t felt the need to even try it
The cascade link should get deep in the travel less due to the more progressive nature, unless I'm mistaken. And sure it could be lower for a split second on a bottoming impact. Buff creek, haven't ridden there since 2005 or so.
 

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Given the same sag, the cascade link should ride higher in the travel due to the more progressive nature, unless I'm mistaken. And sure it could be lower for a split second on a bottoming impact. Buff creek, haven't ridden there since 2005 or so.
Usually more progression means softer initial stroke.
 

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Hey all! Lots of good info in all 67 pages here!!:oops: Surprisingly, there's lots of comparisons with the Enduro, but not really the 'standard' SJ. I'm eyeing both the EVO and 'standard' and could use some advice. Does anyone have any good comparisons/opinions here?

Obviously the EVO is descent biased where the 'standard' is more all around, but any qualitative feedback on what the climbing/descending trade-offs are between the two? My terrain is basically all of Utah, I live in the north, but am from and visit the south regularly.

I'm also pretty big at 6' and over 200 lbs. ready to ride and a little worried about flex-stays and a 34 on the 'standard' under me when things get rougher. Previous bikes were a Remedy and 5-Spot over forked with a 36.

Availability is a big factor too, there's an S4 EVO Comp locally I can snag tomorrow. I'd have to drive at least 3 hours to find a 'standard'.
 

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Usually more progression means softer initial stroke.
You got me before I edited haha. I realized that the same sag on the shock stroke would make the cascade link sit lower. But potentially you could run less sag, still with better small bump, and be less likely to blow through the last 1/3 of travel.

Edit: according to the Cascade website, "pedaling performance is unaffected as the link maintains the stock ride height of the bike." So I guess it is sag corrected.
 

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Hi everyone, hope you don't mind me also posting this in the SJ EVO thread, I asked a week or so ago about people's opinion of 2021 SJ Carbon COmp versus 2021 SJ Evo Carbon Comp on the 2021 SJ thread, I found a shop with S2's and S3's in stock but in SJ Carbon Comp EVO only. (and I can't find any S2 Comps anywhere else within north NJ)

I got to test ride the EVO in the parking lot and it seems like I might be an S2. However, I originally envisioned based upon my riding I would only need the SJ, never really thought about the EVO option as I don't do parks, jumps, etc. really looking for just trails. The shop owner said that he had more people interested in the EVO more so from the perspective that it is more, adjustable, versatile, options. It sounded like the SJ just with more options. But now I just read a review of a 2021 SJ COmp EVO on the associated product page of my local Specialized dealer website, and the person claims that while it is a great bike, it is slacker and not really a trail bike that can climb. I realize this is just one person's opinion, but am I overthinking SJ versus SJ EVO? While I have a bunch of bikes, have ridden road/offroad for 30 years, this is still a big ~$4k purchase for me that doesn't come around often.
 

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Hey all! Lots of good info in all 67 pages here!!:oops: Surprisingly, there's lots of comparisons with the Enduro, but not really the 'standard' SJ. I'm eyeing both the EVO and 'standard' and could use some advice. Does anyone have any good comparisons/opinions here?

Obviously the EVO is descent biased where the 'standard' is more all around, but any qualitative feedback on what the climbing/descending trade-offs are between the two? My terrain is basically all of Utah, I live in the north, but am from and visit the south regularly.

I'm also pretty big at 6' and over 200 lbs. ready to ride and a little worried about flex-stays and a 34 on the 'standard' under me when things get rougher. Previous bikes were a Remedy and 5-Spot over forked with a 36.

Availability is a big factor too, there's an S4 EVO Comp locally I can snag tomorrow. I'd have to drive at least 3 hours to find a 'standard'.
I can't compare directly to the new Stumpy but I have a '21 Epic Evo and just picked up a Stumpy Evo S4 Comp. I considered a regular Stumpy but decided there is too much overlap with the Epic. Not surprisingly there is NO overlap between the SJE and EE but between the two they cover anything I'd want to do on a mountain bike. The EE has flex stays like the Stumpy and it's definitely a snappy, firm ride. I'm sure the stumpy is more plush but everything I've read/heard suggests it's still pretty firm and poppy. The SJE is a blast going downhill.
 

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I can't compare directly to the new Stumpy but I have a '21 Epic Evo and just picked up a Stumpy Evo S4 Comp. I considered a regular Stumpy but decided there is too much overlap with the Epic. Not surprisingly there is NO overlap between the SJE and EE but between the two they cover anything I'd want to do on a mountain bike. The EE has flex stays like the Stumpy and it's definitely a snappy, firm ride. I'm sure the stumpy is more plush but everything I've read/heard suggests it's still pretty firm and poppy. The SJE is a blast going downhill.
Thanks for this, I'm definitely in one bike territory. It seems to me they're both billed as do-it-all bikes, just the EVO has way more versatility and a more descending bias.
 

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Hi everyone, hope you don't mind me also posting this in the SJ EVO thread, I asked a week or so ago about people's opinion of 2021 SJ Carbon COmp versus 2021 SJ Evo Carbon Comp on the 2021 SJ thread, I found a shop with S2's and S3's in stock but in SJ Carbon Comp EVO only. (and I can't find any S2 Comps anywhere else within north NJ)

I got to test ride the EVO in the parking lot and it seems like I might be an S2. However, I originally envisioned based upon my riding I would only need the SJ, never really thought about the EVO option as I don't do parks, jumps, etc. really looking for just trails. The shop owner said that he had more people interested in the EVO more so from the perspective that it is more, adjustable, versatile, options. It sounded like the SJ just with more options. But now I just read a review of a 2021 SJ COmp EVO on the associated product page of my local Specialized dealer website, and the person claims that while it is a great bike, it is slacker and not really a trail bike that can climb. I realize this is just one person's opinion, but am I overthinking SJ versus SJ EVO? While I have a bunch of bikes, have ridden road/offroad for 30 years, this is still a big ~$4k purchase for me that doesn't come around often.
The Evo is a great climbing bike for what it is, but don't get it for the 'flexibility' get it because you ride and prefer really rowdy trails with drops, jumps, skinnies, endless chunk, etc... If you don't have access or are just not into that stuff, you are going to a have a better and faster ride on the standard SJ.

Ultimately, the SJ & the Evo if they ran the exact same components would probably climb and pedal very nearly at the same speed, even if the Evo muted the trail a bit more. But the Evo shouldn't have light duty trail tires, rims & a 34mm fork where-as the standard SJ shouldn't have burly components and tires strapped to it in an attempt to make it something it's not.

One standard I use, that for some reason just hasn't caught on yet, is the amount of travel you need is really determined by how much tire you find you need for the riding you do. For example, can't live with anything short of Minions? Well you're an Evo guy. Find you enjoy the snappiness and speed Rekons and the like provide and they don't give you any reliability problems? The SJ is going to work great. Taking this past the bikes you are looking at: If you can't survive without DD Assagais you better buy the Enduro or if instead you love some fast rolling Rocket Rons on your daily ride you are going to be happiest on a XC bike.
 

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Has anyone with a 'Spring' order for their bike actually received it yet? I ordered back in Nov after the first round of bikes. Just curious if anyone has heard timelines from their shop.
 

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One standard I use, that for some reason just hasn't caught on yet, is the amount of travel you need is really determined by how much tire you find you need for the riding you do. For example, can't live with anything short of Minions? Well you're an Evo guy. Find you enjoy the snappiness and speed Rekons and the like provide and they don't give you any reliability problems? The SJ is going to work great. Taking this past the bikes you are looking at: If you can't survive without DD Assagais you better buy the Enduro or if instead you love some fast rolling Rocket Rons on your daily ride you are going to be happiest on a XC bike.
This sounds good but... a lot of time terrain has a large impact on tire choice. I love the snappy handling of the SJ, but I also want my tires to handle the sharp rocks that'll shred sidewalls. The SJ fits my riding aspirations but exo casings do not.
 

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Can someone tell me if the front ring is centered in the chain guide on the stock build or is offset toward the outside of the guide a bit? Finishing my build and fitting my cranks, thanks.

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk
 

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Can someone tell me if the front ring is centered in the chain guide on the stock build or is offset toward the outside of the guide a bit? Finishing my build and fitting my cranks, thanks.

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk
I'm no expert, but I used shims to center the crank arms to the downtube.

Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk
 

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Can someone tell me if the front ring is centered in the chain guide on the stock build or is offset toward the outside of the guide a bit? Finishing my build and fitting my cranks, thanks.

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk
Set it up so it doesn’t rub in the largest and smallest cassette ring and it’s fine.
 
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