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Making fat cool since '71
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I've used a chainguide on singlering bikes with ISCG tabs with good results, but have zero experience with the ones for double ring set-ups or ones for bikes without tabs. I have an old ethirteen and have liked it, but it (obviously) will not work on the RFX.

What are your fave doubles for tab-less bikes? Just stick with ethirteen and get their model?

Brock...
 

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Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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yep! the heim/lrp combo rules but rumor has it both parts are no longer made. i havent checked. some like the blackspire but its a drag to set up with race face cranks they say. squish has been tryin to make the e 13 work on his '07 without luck for a year. if it were me, id try to find a heim/lrp somewhere.
 

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trail fairy
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BS Stinger, if ya got RF like me, a Dremel too is all ya need,

I have ISCG [06RX] and have non ISCG on [06Spot] both RF its nothing a bit of cunning can't fix also for a some fine tuning and any real Homer can do this or take to a Engineering shop get them to shave off a few mm to fit nicely behind the BB cup for optimal spacing if ya want to get real pro for the price you'd still come in well under the Heim LRP option probably why they no longer made! They did look nice though!

MRP here are not cheap either my 2 Stingers well under the cost of one MRP LRP and only cost me one roller in 2 years, silent too:thumbsup:
 

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CG necessary for 36/22 set-up?

A little OT here, but is a chain guide/tensioner device necessary for running a 36/22T set-up?

I have always ran a 32/22T w/bash on the 06' RFX with no probs with drop chain or chainsuck with smooth shifting in all gears and even wear so never had the need to use a chainguide. But, lately on rides I find myself running out of gears from time to time, especially on open, high speed trail descents.

I just ordered a Shimano SLX 667 compact front derailleur that is made specifically for dual rings and a 36T ring to change to a 36/22 set-up. Does anyone know if I will run into problems with shifting and chain retention with this and need to put on some sort of chain device? I rather not use one if I don't need to.

Also, besides chain retention, what are the benefits of a guide, improved shifting when shifting between greater gear ratios?

Thanks,

JG
 

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No, that's not phonetic
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14,313 Posts
2-ring chainguides that just offer a roller below the cranks do not improve, or even affect, front shifting. The chainguide's action happens AFTER the chain has left the chainrings (when pedaling forward anyway). The guide just keeps the chain from getting tossed off the rings from below when coasting and when derailleur bounce lets the chain go slack.

Good or bad front shifting depends on whether the rings are "timed" correctly in the position of the ramps and shift pins so that the chain climbs from the smaller ring cleanly onto the teeth of the larger ring. Most Shimano rings have letters (A, B, G, etc) that tell you which rings play nice together. Stick within a letter family for the best performance.

If you have never needed a guide before, there is no real reason why you would need one now just because you will have a 4-tooth bigger spread.
 

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tscheezy said:
2-ring chainguides that just offer a roller below the cranks do not improve, or even affect, front shifting. The chainguide's action happens AFTER the chain has left the chainrings (when pedaling forward anyway). The guide just keeps the chain from getting tossed off the rings from below when coasting and when derailleur bounce lets the chain go slack.

Good or bad front shifting depends on whether the rings are "timed" correctly in the position of the ramps and shift pins so that the chain climbs from the smaller ring cleanly onto the teeth of the larger ring. Most Shimano rings have letters (A, B, G, etc) that tell you which rings play nice together. Stick within a letter family for the best performance.

If you have never needed a guide before, there is no real reason why you would need one now just because you will have a 4-tooth bigger spread.
Thanks for the clarification. The reason I was asking is that I have heard that a lower roller, like a BS Stinger helps to reduce friction and drag to allow for more precise and smoother rear shifting. If it doesn't and the rollers are only used to keep the chain on the rings when coasting, then I should be alright and not have to worry about getting one, which is what I was hoping for.

Thanks,

JG
 

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Elitest thrill junkie
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40,234 Posts
jgusta said:
A little OT here, but is a chain guide/tensioner device necessary for running a 36/22T set-up?

I have always ran a 32/22T w/bash on the 06' RFX with no probs with drop chain or chainsuck with smooth shifting in all gears and even wear so never had the need to use a chainguide. But, lately on rides I find myself running out of gears from time to time, especially on open, high speed trail descents.
Same here, maybe my chain length is just right or whatever, but I've never had any problems. This with riding South Mountain downhills and plenty of other gnarly places. I wonder if it has something to do with the rear derailer and it's ability (or lack of with the other brand) to "rotate" back and forth on the b-tension pivot?
 

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cactuscorn said:
yep! the heim/lrp combo rules but rumor has it both parts are no longer made. i havent checked. some like the blackspire but its a drag to set up with race face cranks they say. squish has been tryin to make the e 13 work on his '07 without luck for a year. if it were me, id try to find a heim/lrp somewhere.
E-13 bought Heim (designs/patents), that is why you cannot find them any more. E-13 has some simpler guides comming for 09 that I assume utilize some Heim I.P.

In my experience (on a handful of frames with and w/o ISCG, and even frames that claim to require their own propeitary guide) the E-13 DRS has been cake to set up and has never dropped a chain. I would be interested to hear the instal difficulties as I have never experienced any. The bash is overkill for a trail bike, but better that than underbuilt...
 

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Fragglepuss The Chaste
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2,115 Posts
ImaKlyde said:
I've used a chainguide on singlering bikes with ISCG tabs with good results, but have zero experience with the ones for double ring set-ups or ones for bikes without tabs. I have an old ethirteen and have liked it, but it (obviously) will not work on the RFX.

What are your fave doubles for tab-less bikes? Just stick with ethirteen and get their model?

Brock...
I used the E.13 DRS on my '08 RFX and it worked/fit just fine with no grinding, etc... And I never dropped a chain with it.



However, after having some fit issues on subsequent frames, I'm a big fan of the Blackspire Stinger now: It's cheap, no grinding, easy to set up. Only drawback I can see with the Stinger over the DRS is durability. The Stinger's a bit thinner/weaker than the DRS. I'm running a Stinger on both trail bikes now.




Sorry, not the best quality pics.
 

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Fragglepuss The Chaste
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2,115 Posts
davep said:
In my experience (on a handful of frames with and w/o ISCG, and even frames that claim to require their own propeitary guide) the E-13 DRS has been cake to set up and has never dropped a chain. I would be interested to hear the instal difficulties as I have never experienced any. The bash is overkill for a trail bike, but better that than underbuilt...
davep,

I wasn't able to install a DRS properly on my Reign X using the ISCG tabs (see photo above). I can get an SRS to fit just fine, but the ISCG tabs on the Reign X don't allow the DRS to rotate far enough to put any tension on the chain in either chainring. Add to that, you have to grind a fair amount off the lip of the DRS to get it to fit properly using the BB mount setup.

On the RFX, the BB mount DRS was fairly simple to set up, much like the Stinger. You just have to rotate the boomerang around far enough to get the amount of tension you want and then tighten the BB. Only drawback to both guides is that if you smack them on a rock, you run the risk of them rotating and damaging your chainstay, loosening your driveside BB cup or both.
 

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No, that's not phonetic
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14,313 Posts
The Stinger, LRP, and Heim are functionally identical. The difference is in how thick the plates are. The Heim is far thinner than the others and doesn't screw up your chain line. That is the reason to choose it.
 

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~~~~~~~~
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tscheezy said:
The Stinger, LRP, and Heim are functionally identical. The difference is in how thick the plates are. The Heim is far thinner than the others and doesn't screw up your chain line. That is the reason to choose it.
they actually available anywhere?
did e-13 buy them just to eliminate them?
 

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Commit or eat sh!t
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airwreck said:
they actually available anywhere?
did e-13 buy them just to eliminate them?
When I talked to e13 guys a couple of months ago about Heim, they said they were too busy to come out with an upgraded Heim guide. As soon as the 2009 products are released (LG1, SRS, etc), they said they were going to work on the Heim guide.
 
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