[leoh]

Hi everyone.
I noticed that one of my hubs (Deore 2006) is not as smooth as it was before.
So I took it to my LBS for service, and now it feels much better.
They told me that they replaced the bearings, and that the axle threads were worn or damaged, and I should replace the axle (they didn't have replacement axles).

However, I couldn't find any LBS selling axles.

Is is normal to wear the axle threads? What can cause that?
Is it bad, or can I use it safely? (they told me it was OK as long as I service it often)
Should I replace the hub in case I can't find a new axle?

Thanks!

 

[FBinNY]

You didn't say whether they were QR or nutted-on hubs or where the damage was.

It's normal for hub threads to be damaged where the dropout is. All the banging around putting your wheel on and off beats up the area pretty badly. The good news is that the threads in that area don't do anything, so the only issue is backing cones and locknuts off over the bad zone. Don't sweat it.

If the threads of bolt on hubs are damaged where the nut engages, eventually they'll strip and you won't be able to tighten the wheel. If that were the case, I'd expect that if it were serious a decent shop would have pointed it out before servicing the hub, so as not to have to do it over again.

If you have sufficient axle length, you can buy yourself some time by using a washer to push the nut out to where the threads are in better shape. Another emergency trick if you can't replace the axle is to reverse it so the better threads are on the right side where greater tightening torque is required, possibly moving the axle off center slightly to get the best threads where the nut engages.

Ultimately the right solution (for bolt-ons) is to replace the axle and nuts. Replacement axles are readilly available, if not the original brand, at least an analog with the same threads and length. You might save dough if you buy a set with the cones and locknuts, so you'll have spares when the need arises. (The package is much cheaper than the parts separately)

If your LBS can't/won't find one, you might contact these folks - www.yellowjersey.org and I'm sure they'll be able to take care of you. Tell them Francis in New York says hi.

 

[leoh]

Thanks for your answer.

The hubs have titanium QR skewers.
I changed the original ones with titanium Kore QRs because I had bent the original ones.
These also got bent after little use, but much less than the original ones. May be a bent axle?

 

[FBinNY]

Leoh-

It's counter-intuitive, but bent axles don't usually cause bent QR skewers. The usual culprit, besides crashing, is a frame with non-parallel dropouts. You can take the bike in to have this checked since it requires a special tool to both check and correct the problem.

If you want, you can improvise a poor man's dropout checking tool. You need a 3/8" bolt or threaded rod about 6-7" long, and 2 nuts. (If using a bolt not threaded all the way to the head, cut the head off with a hacksaw and use the other end).


First check that the wheel goes in easily without you needing to spread the frame. The dropouts should be separated by the same amount as the over locknut width of the hub, plus or minus 1mm. Place the bolt in one dropout so it reaches but doesn't engage the oposite side. Tighten it firmly with the two nuts. If the dropout is alligned correctly the bolt will point directly to the oposite side as if it were passing through it. Repeat on the other side. Now you know. But if it needs fixing, you'll need a skilled and properly equiped mechanic. The fork dropouts can be checked the same way, using a 5/16" test rod.

If the skewers aren't bent too badly, they can probably be saved.
As far as the thread wear issue goes, it sounds like you're probably OK.

Good luck, fb