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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I figured after messing around with 'production' lights i'd look at cranking up what i have. I don't have a means of milling a housing so I started searching around for light mods.

Came across some info on Mitycross and TridenX but I figured i'd try it on the Pace 310 first. I cracked the case to see what i'm starting with. Found two of the SEOUL 2LED-N all nice and tucked in there.

Now i started reading on 'what' to replace and i started getting a little of the infomation overload:confused:

If this works then i'd like to crank up the rest of my lights. The Pace is listed as having 310, my Mitycross is listed at 400, and the TridenX is listed at 600. As usual these ended up not being enough - but i do like the housing and the beam pattern that Cygolite uses.

So what i'm hoping to get out of all this?

Brighter LED
More efficient LED
More run time? Would be nice:thumbsup:

Right now i'm thinking the XPG R5 on 20mm starts 'should' fit right in.
These LEDs

Here's a crappy cell phone pic.

Thanks for looking and any help:thumbsup:

Ed
 

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Dirt Deviant
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I think the XML would be slightly more efficient than the XPG, and would possibly match the optics better.
I could be wrong here, but it is something to look into.
XML are not too much more $$ too.
Lower Voltage Forward, slightly more lumens too.
I would go with whichever one fits the optics better.
I'm sure somebody will chime in on that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You talking one like this?

XML LINK

The current ones that are in there are 20mm so in theory these should be 'drop in'....

Least that is what i'm trying for on this go around :thumbsup:

Thanks,
Ed
 

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Dirt Deviant
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I wouldn't go for the one from DX.
Read the posts about the stock status on the DX page.
I ordered some of those, and they didn't even process the order.
After about a month, I canceled the order.

It looks like you are in the US.
I would get them from Led Supply or Cutter.
Cutter if you have other things you need to order, or Led Supply if all you need is 2 stars.

T6 bin from Led Supply
http://ledsupply.com/creexml-w280.php

T5 bin from cutter
http://cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1026

T6 bin from cutter
http://cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1027

T6 bin is a tad bit more $$, but is also more efficient with more lumens per watt.

The hardest part about doing mods like this is getting an LED to match the optics that are in the lighthead, as most optics are designed to work with a specific LED.
The XPG has a much smaller dome than the SEOUL does, so it may not be a good match for the optics that come with the Pace 310.
The XML has a much bigger dome than the XPG, potentially making it a better match to the optics that you have.
I don't have any SEOUL Led boards around here to measure for you, but I think the XML is going to be closer in diameter.
Now you'll just have to worry about the dome height.

Hopefully, somebody will chime in that has experience with the older SEOUL Led, and tell you if I am talking out my @$$ or not.

Do some research before you order anything using my advice, as I have only been doing the LED thing for a short time now, and only have my hands on some of the newer stuff, and no experience with what is now becoming older technology.

It theory it should work though.
Do a forum search in the DIY section for Cygolite. Some people have successfully modded them.
 

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As a recent novice, I will throw in two cent's worth.

Research: Cutter has nice links to data sheets for the XM-L and others when you look up the LED. The dimensions are further in these publications. You have the Seoul P4? N Bin to measure. If the dome height and width are close, check how much room you have in the bottom of the optic to fit the dome into.

Room without squashing the dome isn't the only thing, though. Focus plays a big role. Looks like the optic is in the bezel and that means you can shim the bezel and lens closer or farther from the LEDs and that can help you fine tune the optics, provided you don't need to get inside squashing distance. So you can go try and error until you have as good as they can do. If you can find data sheets for the Seoul LED, the Mfr's claimed output will likely be before lens losses, so you can guesstimate the current the driver puts out at max.. From that, you can use the CREE sheet to guesstimate output of the XM-Ls (-10-15% for the optic).

Of course anyone who has already invented this wheel would be a more help, but I know that just a little bit can be big at this stage in your learning curve. Looks can be deceiving, but this seems like it is definitely worth a shot.

Saving decent lights from landfill is a laudable endeavor.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I went and ordered up a couple new LED's - looks like they have shipped already. After they get here i'll do a before beamshot and the dig in and see how the new one's do.

Thanks,
Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ordered up the XML's to see how they do. If not in this then i'll start on making a new DIY light :)

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Though i've been reading a bit here and there and I think i have the bug to build up a 2000 or so lumen bar light :D

I've got a lot to figure out if i'm going to try and get that type of setup.

Now back to my 'upgrade'..... My wonder is what this little Pace 310 is putting to the led? Would be nice to have an idea what I could possibly get with the new led in there compared to the stock one. Since i'm not of an electronics guy this should be interesting :D

Ed
 

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NitroRC Ed said:
Though i've been reading a bit here and there and I think i have the bug to build up a 2000 or so lumen bar light :D

I've got a lot to figure out if i'm going to try and get that type of setup.

Now back to my 'upgrade'..... My wonder is what this little Pace 310 is putting to the led? Would be nice to have an idea what I could possibly get with the new led in there compared to the stock one. Since i'm not of an electronics guy this should be interesting :D

Ed
Do you know how to measure the current?
 

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Dirt Deviant
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Ed,
my buddy just hooked me up with a Pace 295, I'm pretty sure it is basically the same light as the 310.
I am planning on doing some foolijng around with it.
I have a bunch of XML's, XPG's and some XPE's as well.
If I have any success I will post back here with my results. Actually, I will post either way, good or bad.

On a side note, a 2000 lumen bar light is a good thing.......= )
I just finished building up my bar light that is pretty close to 2000 lumens.
i used 2 3up XPG boards with carlco narrow optics and a maxflex running at 1000mAh.
The thing is amazing.
It makes my dual XPG helmet light running at 1500 mAh seem like a keychain light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Right on on the light score! I'm waiting for my stuff in the mail still. And tonight i was going to do a beamshot pic but I think one of my kids 'borrowed' the 310. I got pics of everything else to compare with but i'll have to dig around for my missing 310 :eek:

Here are the lights i'm working with right now - i've got a few but i end up loaning some out on rides. But i'm ready to upgrade and improve :thumbsup:

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I notice i was in a bit of a hurry when taking the photos - i didnt' quite get them all pointed towards the same location.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok - went out and took the 310 apart - yeah it just 'happen' to show up on the table today ;)

Wasn't able to get a current reading so i bailed on that for now but at least got some good internal pics. Might try to look up the board and see if there is any info on it.

Next i'm going to dig into the 400 and see if the parts are the same :thumbsup:

On to the pictures,
Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Tore into the 400 and found something interesting.... The guts are all the same except for a 'different' LED.

Will have to see what these are and when the new ones for the 310 show up i'll compare - maybe toss in a set of the XM-L and see what happens.
 

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Dirt Deviant
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I just took apart my pace 295 and it looks just like the 310.
Same leds, same optics and everything.
The XML dome is a great fit, but the star may need to be raised up a few mm from the mounting plate.
I guess I should have taken some measurements while I had it apart, but couldn't remember where I last had my calipers.
If you look at the dome on the seoul boards, it is raised up on a plastic plate.
The XML will need to be raised up a little bit to match that height. About the thickness of a star board.
Once you get the XML boards in, you'll see what I'm talking about.
I'm charging the battery for the 295 right now.
If I can get a good portion of a charge in tonight before bed I can take a beamshot, then swap in the XML's and do a comparison.
Prolly won't have enough time though....will most likely have to wait till tomorrow after work.
Cygolite sure does get slap happy with the thermal paste huh?
Guess it's not a bad thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
savageman - you had a chance to mess with your light yet? My parts showed up but i'm not able to do anything till tomorrow night. I'll have to get a beamshot still of the 300 before the swap.

I called up Cygolite to see if they would give me any info on the board that is in there - no luck there. I was trying to get numbers from them for the outputs so i could do a 'paper' comparison from the old LED to the new ones.

Guess i'll see tomorrow night how it all goes :thumbsup:

Ed
 
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