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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an Eason Monkeylite XC riser that is a little too wide. (it saved me like 130 gr from my stock boat anchor, uh, bar)

The Eason site says tape, vise, soft jaws and a hack saw.

I have heard of people using a Dremel tool with a cut off disk.

I would think a hack saw would leave jagged or chipped edges.

Anyone cut their carbon bars or seatposts?
 

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The critical feature of the hacksaw is the tooth count on the blade, I think Easton recommends something like 24T/inch which is a pretty fine blade. A Dremel with a cutoff blade would work, just wear a dust mask as the particles are smaller and dispersed more with the Dremel. It would be a good idea to have a vacuum cleaner setup at the cutting disc while you're chopping it off.
 

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you want minimum 32 tooth per inch hack saw blade. And you will want to use a brand new one. Not one that has been sitting at the bottom of your tool box. Rotate the bar as you cut so you cut into the centre of the tube. Don't cut straight across or your final strokes with the hack saw blade will cause the remaining carbon fiber to de-laminate.
 

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Pipe cutter can be tricky also as you don't wanna tighten down much as you go. (U will hear this sickeing plentering sound I would imagine.)
But, it would do a straight cut. I use it for my steer tubes now pretty well.
Btw-2, new blade applies to pipe cutter as well.
Also, water lube as you go slowly. Oh yea, and the Monkeylite XC has a bar end re-inforced area that if you cut passed that I would not run bar ends.
Btw-3, I have a brand new never used Monkeylite XC OS bar sitting around if anyone is interested. 50$ (Never even mounted.) I like something a little heavier.
http://www.eastonbike.com/PRODUCTS/BARS/08/bar_rise_ml_xc_'08.html
pm me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I only took off 12 mm, and dont run bar ends

I used a new 32 t blade and it worked OK. I got a little delamination as I was in the middle. It's small, maybe 2 mm.

beyond that it went well.
 
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