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Drunk Poster
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I am looking to have a set of custom wheels built up. For $700 CASH!!! Does anyone know of any LBS in the greater Sacramento area that can meet this challenge.

Looking for White Industries MI6 Hubs (rear hub w/ Titanium Shell) DT double butted 2.0/1.5 revolution spokes and DT 4.2D or Stans Olympic rims.

Would consider going with Hope Pro 2 Rear Hub and King Front Hub also...

Somebody please be capable of meeting this challenge locally I would hate to have to send my business out of the area.
 

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Proud lame eBiker
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2,680 Posts
jawndoe said:
Somebody please be capable of meeting this challenge locally I would hate to have to send my business out of the area.
Challenge met. Product delivered. How you liking the new wheels Jawn D.?:thumbsup:
Time to hit another Tahoe ride, now with your new wheels. Saweet!

Specs:
White Ind. M16 Hubset, Ti rear. 32 hole
Stans Olympic Rims, w/tape and Valve
DT Revolution spokes w/alloy nipples.

Rear weight: 780grams
Front weight: 670grams
1450 total, not bad I'd say!
 

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Crazed Country Rebel
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Internal14 said:
Challenge met. Product delivered. How you liking the new wheels Jawn D.?:thumbsup:
Time to hit another Tahoe ride, now with your new wheels. Saweet!

Specs:
White Ind. M16 Hubset, Ti rear. 32 hole
Stans Olympic Rims, w/tape and Valve
DT Revolution spokes w/alloy nipples.

Rear weight: 780grams
Front weight: 670grams
1450 total, not bad I'd say!
Did you use revolutions on the rear drive side? I tried that once or twice and had too much flex - and had stripped nipples :)eekster: ) on the drive-pulling spokes. So now I use Champions on drive side and Revolutions (14/17) everywhere else. I'm a good 180#'s though, so ymmv.

How many holes, front?

Last - I'm due to rebuild my wheels - who has long term experince with those Stans rims - do they hold up?
 

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Proud lame eBiker
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iheartbicycles said:
Did you use revolutions on the rear drive side? I tried that once or twice and had too much flex - and had stripped nipples :)eekster: ) on the drive-pulling spokes. So now I use Champions on drive side and Revolutions (14/17) everywhere else. I'm a good 180#'s though, so ymmv.

How many holes, front?

Last - I'm due to rebuild my wheels - who has long term experience with those Stans rims - do they hold up?
Stripped nipples? You mean the threads stripped out? or did the wrench flats round out? I'd be shocked to hear the threads stripped! There are some steps to prevent the nipples from galling into the rim and locking up and that leads to rounded off nipples.

32 hole front and back. White doesn't do any 28 hole....go figure?! :madman:

I've been building with those Olympic rims for a while now and have been holding steady. They remind me of the old Sun M14A rims...anyone remember those? Those things were about the same shape, and they held up forever, and you could use plenty of tension in them.
 

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rjmcmahon said:
I think brass nipples would be much better than alloys.
If the correct steps are taken, alloy can be fine. And proper care later on in it's life they will hold up fine. They are not ham-fisted mechanic friendly though. :p
 

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Internal14 said:
If the correct steps are taken, alloy can be fine. And proper care later on in it's life they will hold up fine. They are not ham-fisted mechanic friendly though. :p
It's really not about care but about the material properties of the metals. For the nipples, brass is much preferred over the alloy. Alloys nipples just don't make the grade when it comes to things like strength and durability.
 

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Crazed Country Rebel
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Internal14 said:
Stripped nipples? You mean the threads stripped out? or did the wrench flats round out? I'd be shocked to hear the threads stripped! There are some steps to prevent the nipples from galling into the rim and locking up and that leads to rounded off nipples.

32 hole front and back. White doesn't do any 28 hole....go figure?! :madman:

I've been building with those Olympic rims for a while now and have been holding steady. They remind me of the old Sun M14A rims...anyone remember those? Those things were about the same shape, and they held up forever, and you could use plenty of tension in them.
Threads pulled out 2 or 3 times (just one spoke each time - drive side, pulling spoke). I also have a tendancy to crack rims at the eyelits - due to being fairly big and torqy - hence my question about stans rims.

The only XC rim I've had that hasn't cracked is WTB laser beam - which is out of production.

So I run 14/15 guage drive, 14/17 non drive, 32 hole in the rear - with a fairly light (430 grams or so) rim.

28 hole front.
 

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Internal14 said:
If the correct steps are taken, alloy can be fine. And proper care later on in it's life they will hold up fine. They are not ham-fisted mechanic friendly though. :p
Yep - no reason to run brass - long as the wheel is designed to suit the job at hand. All my bikes - road, xc, dh etc use double butted spokes and alloy nipples.

Obviously proper design is key - ie drive side spokes are under much more torque and a 180# rider may not get away with revolutions.
 

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Proud lame eBiker
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Each of the wheels I build for someone is built for them and the purpose of which they state they are going to use them for. Jawndoe is a light xc rider, looking for a set of killer light fast tubeless ready wheels. That he got.

Given your (iheartbicycles) past would dictate how I would build wheels for you, which would not be these, that's for sure. At least not with Revolutions all around and alloy nips.
 

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Not sure if the OPer still needs a local wheel builder, but FWIW I recently had a rear wheel built by Chris at Victory Velo in Auburn... bomber job. Mavic 717, alloy nipples, laced to my existing CK single speed hub. I have about 200 miles on it now, put it through the paces, its rock solid. I would not hesitate to have them build for me in the future!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Internal14 thanks for the awesome wheelset! I just got back from Salmon Falls and they were great. NIce and stiff plus tubeless is awesome. Seriously I am a tubless believer now. I had gobs of traction and piece of mind knowing that a goathead won't ruin my day. Climbing was a lot easier too, knowing that I dropped atleast a pound of rotating weight. Another plus was how much improvement there was in my coasting distances. These wheels floated on the trail. The wheels definatly flow a lot better than my old heavy ass set. Worth every penny and then some, can I pay you extra for exceeding my expectations?

Yeah we definatly need to goto Hole In The Ground again on them. I was hesitant to make that their first ride, I wanted to know how they would react first before challenging myself and them so much up there.

For the record I am 140lbs (sometimes 135) and was running a WTB Wolverine up front @ 30lbs and a Specialized 2Bliss Captian Controll in the rear @ 30lbs too. I think I might try lowering em down to 27-28ish next ride.
 
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