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Slovakia (Europe)
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
It took me almost one year to get X-guides from Lapierre production in China (unfortunatelly in black color, not red as supposed), so finally I was able to make custom cable routing on my Mojo - fraternal twin with Derby's custom cable guided Mojo :) .
All stopper and guide bottoms are adjusted according to the frame curvature by rough sanding first, then plastic steel epoxy is used to fill the remaining gap between guide bottom and frame. Some guides are riveted, seatstay guides are mounted with M3 bolts to the threads cut directly to the carbon seatstay wall (ca. 8mm thick; I guess the seatstay at that place is not torsionaly stressed because of pivots around, so I took the risk), bottom tube threads are made by stainless steel M5 blind nuts. Each hole was treated with plastic steel epoxy before riveting. I decided to let rear derailleur cable stoppers in their place and drill them through by 4.5mm drill bit (I needed extra long one - 200 mm - to get access to the holes from the outside of the seatstay). That allows either to run 4.5mm cable through (e.g Jagwire Ripcord L3) or use standard 5mm ferrule for splitted cable run (backward compatible). I have used special pipe part from front derailleur stopper made from V-brake pipe and custom link (turned on lathe). Black shrinking tube did the job to optically hide the red cables in the middle of the frame. :D
 

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Looks great Peter! Are all the new guides riveted in or are some of them glued on? I'd like to emulate your seatpost remote cable routing. Can you provide specifics on what tools are required and where you sourced all the parts?

Thanks!
 

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Slovakia (Europe)
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
cchough said:
Looks great Peter! Are all the new guides riveted in or are some of them glued on? I'd like to emulate your seatpost remote cable routing. Can you provide specifics on what tools are required and where you sourced all the parts?
Thanks!
Top tube guides (for seat post remote) and seatpost guide (for front mech) are riveted, seatstay guides are screwed by M3 bolts. You require alu blind rivets according to the guide holes, rivet tool, drill bits according to rivet shaft and 2 component steel epoxy and guides, of course (thanks Ibis for help). I don't remember exact dimensions and no rivets left (to be clear, we use rivets in my company, so I take various pieces and returned remaining ones). I also can't help you with sourcing the parts, because I live in Slovakia and you in the USA ;) I guess you can buy alu blind rivets in hardware store (I hope it's good translation). I suggest to sand bottom of the guide with ca. 220 grit (medium rough) sand paper or file to get the curvature as close as possible to the frame area where the guide will be riveted (to get minimal gap). It's 3D curve so hard for me to describe better. When all holes are drilled but before you rivet the guides, mix steel epoxy and treat the holes (put small amount inside the holes) and also coat bottom of the guides by thin layer of epoxy. Then rivet the guides and remove excessive epoxy that is displaced from the bottom. Epoxy fill the gap between frame and guide and when it get rigid it prevents guide from toppling. I hope this helps you.
 

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Slovakia (Europe)
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ansible said:
It sure looks slick, but no way I would drill holes in a mojo frame like that! Let us know if the frame cracks.
In process of manufacturing the frames they also drill the holes :) , but you are right, I don't suggest to do such modifications to anybody who is not skilled enough and have no access to professional tools. Btw, I've informed Ibis guys about the custom routing result ;)
 

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Founder: Dirty3hirties
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Wow. That is a serious mod. I would never drill holes in my frame but of course, I am clueless and have zero skills regarding doing something like that. Kudos to you. Hope it works out in your favor.
 

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Can I ask why you didn't just drill/file out the standard mounts? I assume you did this mod to run full-length cable housings...is there a reason for re-routing beyond aesthetics?
 

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Slovakia (Europe)
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
New routing is more aesthetic IMHO and more practical. Except of full-length routing I don't hit the upper cables anymore when lifting my leg over the top tube. While waiting it's possible to lean against top tube, bike can be handled better by hand, etc. The routing is also shorter.
 

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Slovakia (Europe)
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You are absolutely correct, it's mud scraper! That carbon fiber piece is original Lapierre rear derailleur guard adapted to Mojo frame. However I haven't knowledge about Shimano shark fin when invented mine :D I think for correct function the scraper should be on seat stay rather then on chain stay, so the mud don't gather at the chain stay (close to the chain, especially if it's on granny ring).
 

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AM, monstercross, klunker
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Mud scraper

The shark fin didn't work very well as a mud scraper. It mostly served to keep the chain from getting stuck between the tire and chainstay.

I sure could have used that mud scraper on my last ride. You should market those things.

I'm expecting a Mojo SL in the mail soon to replace the Mojo that I've been riding for the last couple of years. Nice bike.
 
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