Do you need to save and reuse the crown race or can you destroy it in the process of removing it? Cut it off?
Crown race stuck
We have a stuck crown race here that have tried anything on without it even moving out of its place a micron.......
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Three flat heads snapped and stuck underneath it * two visible in this pic.............
@ first i tried to extract it with its own specific tool
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But it was riuning the wedges of that tool....................so i preffreed not to force the tool on it from a pont that was obvious its not gona extract it..........
Tried heating it with boiling water in order to expand the race but wasnt helpfull either..................
Any suggestions ? or tricks on this ?
Thanx ...............
Three flat heads snapped and stuck underneath it * two visible in this pic.............
@ first i tried to extract it with its own specific tool
But it was riuning the wedges of that tool....................so i preffreed not to force the tool on it from a pont that was obvious its not gona extract it..........
Tried heating it with boiling water in order to expand the race but wasnt helpfull either..................
Any suggestions ? or tricks on this ?
Thanx ...............
2
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Crown race removal tools (the bearing splitter you posted) frequently destroy crown races, unless the blades can get all the way under a significant portion of the race. It is compounded by the tight fits/small gaps on that type of bearing race you posted. If the goal is to re-use the race, more times than not, you are better off with the following method--due in large part to the fact that suspension forks have no crown race overhang.
1) as mentioned, use trapezoidal razor blades (commonly sold in North America as box cutter/utility blades)
Using a small hammer (ball peen [metalworking hammer]), begin tapping the blade in under the race. Doesn't matter, pick a spot. Start with the blade on an angle relative to the crown race seat, so the bevel is inline with the crown race seat. Pick a spot 180 degrees opposite the first blade, and repeat the process. Now move 90 degrees, and pound in another blade. Move 180 degrees opposite that, and repeat. Continue moving in the above fashion, building opposite pairs of blades, until the race either lifts enough to clear the enlarged portion of the steerer tube, or you can get the bearing splitter all the way under the race. Take care hitting the razor blades with the hammer, as they are hard steel and are brittle. Eye protection is a great idea.
The other method is to use a rotary tool (Bosch may be more common outside of NA) with a diamond scribe. There is no room for a cutting wheel, so you need to use a small, pointed scribe to cut through most of the race. Keep the gap as small as you can manage, as it will help the next step. Using a small cold [metal cutting] chisel, apply reasonable force to the gap you've opened--the race is made from bearing steel, so will be relatively brittle. The force from the chisel should snap the ring, and it will either fall off, or be significantly easier to remove. I would suggest you make your cut with the scribe in line with one of the "removal slots" that is cast into the fork crown.
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