Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 20 of 41 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right now it is a paper build but I will be ordering the parts soon. I appreciate any feedback to make this lighter, keeping in mind that It will be raced in the Rocky Mountains. Thanks.

Frame Scott Scale XL 1071
Fork Manitou R7 Platinum 1460
Wheels Stan's AC 1345
Valve Stan's Valve 13
Skewers FRM Pro QR 73
Pedals Egg Beater Four Ti 168
Crankset FRM Integral 2x9 715
Cassette XTR M960 11-34 238
F. Der XTR M970 E-type 128
R. Der SRAM X.0 Med cage 196
Brakes Formula Oro Puro 689
Shifters SRAM X.0 Gripshift 170
Chain SRAM PC-99 hp 265
Bar Easton EC90 low rise 135
Stem Ritchey 4-Axis 121
Seatpost Extralite 27.2x400mm 181
Shim ??? 20
Post Clamp ??? 30
Saddle Specialized Toupe 164
Headset FSA OrbitZR 80
Tires Racing Ralph 2.1 940
Grips Ritchey WCS 50
Chainstay Lizard Skin Jumbo 14
Cage King Ti (with bolts) 40
Headset Spacers 8
Cable and Housing Nokon 81
Grease, dirt, Stan's sealant, etc. 80

Total 8656g or 19.1lbs
 

·
No longer 26
Joined
·
3,090 Posts
The only change I would make is a weight increaser. I'd run 2.25 or 2.4 Racing Ralph on the back with a matching Nobby Nic on the front. Better bump absorption, lower rolling resistance, better traction. YMMV as I do not know the type of terrain. But if you can use 2.1 RR's the larger combos to me would be better.
G
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
779 Posts
great build..
theres a couple things i dont like though:
-the ritchey 4-axis stem is a beautiful piece, however the bar clamp design is very narrow and allows for some handlebar twist. i had the opportunity to ride a bike with a 4-axis stem and it was the first time i ever noticed stem flex. go with a syntace and save and ounce!
-do you really need an 11-34 cassette? if you do and thats what your used to then do it, but going to the 11-32 will save ~15g iirc.

i love the WCS grips. and the brakes will astound you. ive never been so happy with a specific component than with my puros.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
If it were mine I'd go for a lighter seat...and maybe Magura Marta SL brakes although those Hope ones seem to be light.

I find Selle Italia SLRs to be very comfortable despite there this padding.

I just spec'd a my Turner Nitrous thats in the mail now and I went for an iBeam seat and post. The Carbon post is around 175 grams and the seat is fully padded and claimed at 112 grams! However the post is a road one and only comes in 27.2mm diameter.
 

·
Tech geek and racerboy
Joined
·
651 Posts
Jersey said:
-the ritchey 4-axis stem is a beautiful piece, however the bar clamp design is very narrow and allows for some handlebar twist. i had the opportunity to ride a bike with a 4-axis stem and it was the first time i ever noticed stem flex. go with a syntace and save and ounce!
I've had the same experience on my own Scale (which was spec'd with a 4-axis), but I don't think it's the stem as much as the Ritchey handlebar. Compared to the Yeti Arc carbon bar I ran last year, it's very flexy. The stem doesn't seem to move much, though.

As far as the build goes, it looks good. I agree about the 11-32 cassette, which is what I run, but if you like to spin it out, then why not, eh? Also, you could probably get some aluminum bolts for your bottle cage and save a surprising amount of weight very cheaply. I saved mine from the cheap Minoura "Dura-cage" I used on my old bike, and my King Ti cages are about 34-36g with the bolts. Personally not a fan of the AC hubs. I've had a few friends break axles on them (not doing super stupid stuff). Also, the bearings don't last forever (although the ceramics would be better) and the engagement speed on the freehub sucks, but they are light. I plan on running the DT 190's instead.

Good choice on the fork- that's a super hot combo with that bike. Also, what rotors are you going to run? I didn't see them on the list, so I'll assume you're running the formula ones. If you can afford the extra, the fancy hope rotors are supposed to be pretty light.

You racing the MT States Cup? If so, look for me. I'll be the other guy riding a Scale with an R7 on it.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
5,770 Posts
Frame Scott Scale XL 1071
Fork Manitou R7 Platinum 1460...........................not the best fork out there. i'd rather get a REBA
Wheels Stan's AC 1345
Valve Stan's Valve 13
Skewers FRM Pro QR 73..........................steel bolt-ons: 65g cheaper and added stiffness
Pedals Egg Beater Four Ti 168
Crankset FRM Integral 2x9 715..............................ok or Atik triple: less money and lighter
Cassette XTR M960 11-34 238...................with a triple setup like the Atik cranks you can get away with the lighter 11-32 cassette.
F. Der XTR M970 E-type 128
R. Der SRAM X.0 Med cage 196
Brakes Formula Oro Puro 689
Shifters SRAM X.0 Gripshift 170
Chain SRAM PC-99 hp 265...................................KMC X10 SL. ca. 225g and works perfect on 9s as well.
Bar Easton EC90 low rise 135.............................i don't like rizer bars on race hardtails. put 1 carbon spacer under the stem instead!
Stem Ritchey 4-Axis 121..................................Syntace F99 Ti: 103g
Seatpost Extralite 27.2x400mm 181...........................27,2 ???? this will look reaql ugly in the massive Scale frame. and i'd rather get a KCNC Ti-Pro anyway which is 142g in 27,2! but i would get a 31,6 seatpost just for the looks. a 27,2 will look like mikado in there!
Shim ??? 20............................Extralite 34,9/ 31,6
Post Clamp ??? 30...............................standard Scott Scale 14g
Saddle Specialized Toupe 164.....................................SLR 140g or Tune Concorde 62g
Headset FSA OrbitZR 80
Tires Racing Ralph 2.1 940....................................i don't know how and where you ride but the RRs don't have any bite when used on the front in real offroad terrain. i'd suggest a real knobby tire in the front (Nobby Nic) and maybe a meatier tire (2,25"?) in the rear
Grips Ritchey WCS 50.................................no! too heavy. get some Bontrager or Scott or Extralite or Scott foam Grips. all around 20-30g
Chainstay Lizard Skin Jumbo 14
Cage King Ti (with bolts) 40
Headset Spacers 8.......................add one in favour of a straight bar!
Cable and Housing Nokon 81.....................Nokon will kill you! on the Scale you need full lenght housings! the Nokons come in 90cm lenght only. so you will have to spend huge amounts to get Nokon elongation kits...get Alligator I-Link cables. not only much lighter but cheaper and long enough to do your Scale!
Grease, dirt, Stan's sealant, etc. 80
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
nino said:
Frame Scott Scale XL 1071
Fork Manitou R7 Platinum 1460...........................not the best fork out there. i'd rather get a REBA
Wheels Stan's AC 1345
Valve Stan's Valve 13
Skewers FRM Pro QR 73..........................steel bolt-ons: 65g cheaper and added stiffness
Pedals Egg Beater Four Ti 168
Crankset FRM Integral 2x9 715..............................ok or Atik triple: less money and lighter
Cassette XTR M960 11-34 238...................with a triple setup like the Atik cranks you can get away with the lighter 11-32 cassette.
F. Der XTR M970 E-type 128
R. Der SRAM X.0 Med cage 196
Brakes Formula Oro Puro 689
Shifters SRAM X.0 Gripshift 170
Chain SRAM PC-99 hp 265...................................KMC X10 SL. ca. 225g and works perfect on 9s as well.
Bar Easton EC90 low rise 135.............................i don't like rizer bars on race hardtails. put 1 carbon spacer under the stem instead!
Stem Ritchey 4-Axis 121..................................Syntace F99 Ti: 103g
Seatpost Extralite 27.2x400mm 181...........................27,2 ???? this will look reaql ugly in the massive Scale frame. and i'd rather get a KCNC Ti-Pro anyway which is 142g in 27,2! but i would get a 31,6 seatpost just for the looks. a 27,2 will look like mikado in there!
Shim ??? 20............................Extralite 34,9/ 31,6
Post Clamp ??? 30...............................standard Scott Scale 14g
Saddle Specialized Toupe 164.....................................SLR 140g or Tune Concorde 62g
Headset FSA OrbitZR 80
Tires Racing Ralph 2.1 940....................................i don't know how and where you ride but the RRs don't have any bite when used on the front in real offroad terrain. i'd suggest a real knobby tire in the front (Nobby Nic) and maybe a meatier tire (2,25"?) in the rear
Grips Ritchey WCS 50.................................no! too heavy. get some Bontrager or Scott or Extralite or Scott foam Grips. all around 20-30g
Chainstay Lizard Skin Jumbo 14
Cage King Ti (with bolts) 40
Headset Spacers 8.......................add one in favour of a straight bar!
Cable and Housing Nokon 81.....................Nokon will kill you! on the Scale you need full lenght housings! the Nokons come in 90cm lenght only. so you will have to spend huge amounts to get Nokon elongation kits...get Alligator I-Link cables. not only much lighter but cheaper and long enough to do your Scale!
Grease, dirt, Stan's sealant, etc. 80

Nino, et.al.
Thanks for the input. I agree with the thicker Ralphs and perhaps a Nic up front, but I should have mentioned that this will be my short track and/or non-technical XC weapon.

For more technical races, I'll be using this:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=221919&highlight=dean

Some of the parts from the Scale list are the same the Dean has, simply cause I didn't know what to put on which bike. For example, I think I will take the R7 off the Dean and put an F100x on it so the R7 goes to the Scale.

I want to run a 2x9 cause I hardly use the granny, so that's why the 11-34 is necessary. The Syntace won't work unless I get a narrower, non-riser bar but I don't think that will be compatible with my fit. But, I'll wait to get the frame before getting stem and bar just in case.

A 31.6 seatpost sounds good, an suggestions? KCNC Ti-Pro? Who sells them?
You sell the Alligator's Nino? How much? I like the Nokon's on my other bikes but I have to admit they creak terribly when they get dusty and then wet.

To answer the question about the R7 platinum, yes I like how light it is but it might not be burly enough for me (175lbs) on some courses. Even when I am rolling in the driveway and pop the breaks, I can see it visibly deflect and I don't remember that happening on my F100x.
 

·
the train keeps rollin
Joined
·
3,214 Posts
williford said:
KCNC Ti-Pro?.
Don't do it, mine blew apart after a few rides, they're light and cheap for a reason! They only come in 350mm as well, is that enough length. Go Thomson Masterpiece, or the Syntace P6.

I second the Reba.

Ditch the AC as a rear hub, in combination with the ZTR rim, it SUCKS, constantly comes
out of true. I have to true mine after nearly every ride. White Industries makes an excellent hub, similar weight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,402 Posts
I'll put a vote i for the Masterpiece. Strong, comes in 31.6 and is light for it's strngth. Mine is 188g.

I'd definitely go with a Reba over the3 R7 too although I prefer the weight and performance of my F100 RLT from PUSH.

Nino is right an extra spacer and a riser bar will fit the same. An EC90 is fin with an F99 anyway and comes in both clamp sizes. I prefer flat as well and the KCNC Scandium is 600mm and works well or the Salsa Pro Moto Carbon cut to 610 will work.

I think if weight were my concern I'd be looking at DT240 hubs. AC just never makes my radar based on previous reputation and the myriad of other great options. I run CK's with 355's and love them.

Have you analyzed the 2x9 + 11-34 vs a 3x9 + 11-32 weights? Might be a wash and a 3x9 when weight is equal is always a better option IMO. I personally would prefer a 2007 XTR or even XT cranks to what's been mentioned but I tend to stay mainstream on cranks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Asahi said:
I'll put a vote i for the Masterpiece. Strong, comes in 31.6 and is light for it's strngth. Mine is 188g.

I'd definitely go with a Reba over the3 R7 too although I prefer the weight and performance of my F100 RLT from PUSH.

Nino is right an extra spacer and a riser bar will fit the same. An EC90 is fin with an F99 anyway and comes in both clamp sizes. I prefer flat as well and the KCNC Scandium is 600mm and works well or the Salsa Pro Moto Carbon cut to 610 will work.

I think if weight were my concern I'd be looking at DT240 hubs. AC just never makes my radar based on previous reputation and the myriad of other great options. I run CK's with 355's and love them.

Have you analyzed the 2x9 + 11-34 vs a 3x9 + 11-32 weights? Might be a wash and a 3x9 when weight is equal is always a better option IMO. I personally would prefer a 2007 XTR or even XT cranks to what's been mentioned but I tend to stay mainstream on cranks.

2x9 is for speed, not weight. I'm thinking the better chainline will allow me to run in the big ring the whole STXC race, and the 29 small ring will be good enough for some XC and all HC races.

I already have two sets of AC ZTR wheels with ceramic bearings. I like the weight and have not had to true them yet. They're 1345 with yellow tape.

Is the Reba WC (with Poploc) close to it's advertised 1542g? Again, this Scale will be for less technical races so the R7 will be ok but I'll put a Reba WC or F100x on my FS.
Thanks again for your help guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
779 Posts
williford said:
The Syntace won't work unless I get a narrower, non-riser bar but I don't think that will be compatible with my fit. But, I'll wait to get the frame before getting stem and bar just in case.
ive been running a F99 with the ec90 riser SL for just about a year now with zero problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Really?

dennis rides Scott said:
I don't think the FRM cranks fit on the Scale, because you need 73mm e-type.
Is that true? I am new to e-type, but doesn't the der just take the place of a spacer (1mm or 2.5 mm or whatever)? So as long as a spacer would normally be used on a particular crankset, that crankset is compatible with e-type?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
williford said:
2x9 is for speed, not weight. I'm thinking the better chainline will allow me to run in the big ring the whole STXC race, and the 29 small ring will be good enough for some XC and all HC races.
Someone correct me if I am wrong about this, but. . .

With an integral crank, running 2x9 doesn't really allow for any different chainline, does it?

That is to say, if you ran a non-integrated crank, you could simply use a narrower BB spindle, i.e. a 108mm rather than a 113mm. This would make a 50mm chainline into a 47.5mm chainline.

But on an integrated crankset, how would you bring the chainline in any further without doing some serious mods to the end of the integrated spindle? You could remove BB shell spacers, but then the spindle would be too long. You could grind down the end of the spindle, but then you would lose some of the spline, *and* it would be rather difficult with common household tools to make a perfectly straight flush grind or cut.

Or am I missing something? Overthinking maybe?

Id appreciate any replies, as this is something Ive thought about doing for my own bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I did a little research..

cogswell23 said:
Someone correct me if I am wrong about this, but. . .

With an integral crank, running 2x9 doesn't really allow for any different chainline, does it?

That is to say, if you ran a non-integrated crank, you could simply use a narrower BB spindle, i.e. a 108mm rather than a 113mm. This would make a 50mm chainline into a 47.5mm chainline.

But on an integrated crankset, how would you bring the chainline in any further without doing some serious mods to the end of the integrated spindle? You could remove BB shell spacers, but then the spindle would be too long. You could grind down the end of the spindle, but then you would lose some of the spline, *and* it would be rather difficult with common household tools to make a perfectly straight flush grind or cut.

Or am I missing something? Overthinking maybe?

Id appreciate any replies, as this is something Ive thought about doing for my own bike.

The FRM 3x9 and 2x9 have the same Q-factors (150mm) and chainlines (50mm) so I guess you are right. What is the point of a 2x9 that has the same chainline as a 3x9? I guess this means I'll be running an isis system. Maybe Next LP's with a AC BB.
 

·
Tech geek and racerboy
Joined
·
651 Posts
williford said:
What is the point of a 2x9 that has the same chainline as a 3x9?
Chainline is measured from the middle of the chainset. So on a 3-ring crank, that's the middle ring, and the big ring is out farther. On a double, that's between the two rings, and the big ring is closer to the centre of the bike, even if the measured chainline is identical. Therefore you still get a chainline advantage when cross-chaining from the big ring to the big cogs on the cassette. In addition, running any external bb system will give superior stiffness to the comparable ISIS, and as long as it isn't complete crap, it'll be far more durable.

Incidentally, to my pleasant surprise, I get a superb chainline with my XTR crankset (chainline=50mm) on my Scale. This is a change from my old 2001 Homegrown, on which I had to run two spacers on the left side (of the 68mm bb shell) to get the chain to run correctly. It seems to me like most frame manufacturers are designing their frames to work with the 50mm chainline produced by most crank manufacturers these days. Also, higher end components are more tolerant of a little chainline error anyway.
 
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Top