Here it is: Tuesday Tune Ep 19 - What Your Rebound Damping Does.The Vorsprung Video explains it the best
My method is to slam your rear down on the seat and set rebound so the return doesn't kick you back off: https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/technical-support/setup-guideI've been told this method forever, and it always results in a super slow setting that packs up. Bounce around in a parking lot and get it as fast as you can without getting tossed, then hit some trails and adjust from there. Adjust both front and rear at the same time and keep them balanced.
This x1000.In short, no that's not how you set damping.
A port orifice damper is set differently than a normal shimmed damper, which is also set differently than a highly preloaded damper, and on top of all that there is a considerable window to adjust all of them according to your trails, or just preference.
This video comes up occasionally, but it's really not useful.
Generally, you have to set your damping to work best most of the time. You get to choose which end you sacrifice on. Most shocks and forks don't have sufficient damping circuits to work properly always, so something has to give and there's no rule as to what gives.
I'm not so sure the high and low speed rebounds really work this way on the grip 2. My local trails are nothing but roots, and I have noticed faster HSR smooths out even smaller impact chatter. Initially I was running a slower HSR and faster LSR, but was still packing up in the first 1/3 travel even though the fork felt fast overall. Now I'm @ 5 clicks of both and it feels better.While watching the new fox racing series "dialed" on youtube... I noticed that Jordy tests forks rebound by jumping on it both lightly and with a significant weight, to activate the different rebound circuits (low and high). Since rebound speed is dictated by air spring, you can essentially think of hsr and deep stroke and lsr as beginning stroke rebound (NOTE YOU CANNOT THINK ABOUT COMPRESSION IN THIS WAY AS IT IS NOT POSITION SENSITIVE).
I digress, what he's doing is getting a feeling for how fast it rebounds. He's doing this by feeling if he can pull his hands away from the bars as it rebounds or if it stays with his hands. He's also looking at the wheel and seeing if it hops off the ground.
I use this method as a constant for checking my rebound settings. While rebound is slightly subjective (the last .5 - 1 click of adjustment in either direction) there is an optimum. Over time, I've honed in on what I feel like the right return speed and tire hop is for my riding, and I use the above method to validate it.
While it's not the exact answer, look at this is some one running through the particulars of how to fish. It's on you to figure out what sort of fish that you like.
Lots of HSR damping and little LSR gives the worst possible rebound damping.I'm not so sure the high and low speed rebounds really work this way on the grip 2. My local trails are nothing but roots, and I have noticed faster HSR smooths out even smaller impact chatter. Initially I was running a slower HSR and faster LSR, but was still packing up in the first 1/3 travel even though the fork felt fast overall. Now I'm @ 5 clicks of both and it feels better.
steve explained why he recommends this way of setting rebound up on twin tube shocks in that vid, that doesn´t make it right for every other shock or fork or even the best way of doing it for those exact shocks, it´s just the fastest and most simple way to get close. a lot HSR means it won´t be able to recover from deep in the stroke fast enough so it will be packing up on repeated hits. A little LSR means it won´t be stable around sag point and will be bucking you on jumps.Completely disagree with this. Steve from Vorsprung appears to as well.
Care to elaborate on why you feel this approach is incorrect?