I recently bought a brand new set of Stock ZTR Crest 29 Wheels from Jenson. Out of the box I was unable to get the front tire to hold air tubeless. Air was leaking from the valve core no matter how much I tightened it so I had my LBS retape it. Thats solved my first issue. The next three issues I have with them are both the front and rear wheel are out of dish, the rear wheel creaks like mad when I put power down(I only weigh 135lbs), and the rear wheel also appears to be leaking some sort of moisture from the nipple holes. I never had any issues with my previous Roval wheels and I feel kind of bad that a brand new $600 set of wheels requires me to get them re-dished and retaped right out of the box. Am I crazy for wanting to return them for a refund? Can anyone recommend me a better set of wheels for the money?
Crest Wheelset Woes
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For $600 you can get a Hope/i23 wheelset with DB spokes and alloy nipples and still have some money left over for extra parts.
If they are as bad as you say, return them and get a nice set built up they way you want.
If they are as bad as you say, return them and get a nice set built up they way you want.
I put 22 miles on them today and the rear still creaks like crazy. The rear spoke tension seems really low in some areas. I think I just got a bad batch. Rather than throwing more money at them to get them retensioned and properly dished, I'm planning on returning them and building up a set of KOM rims with Hope hubs or DTs if I can swing it. Where is Hubsessed located? Are you the guys in Knoxville TN?
Non-UST tubeless is not an exact science, and until you eliminate a # of factors you will have issues.
1st off, I and many, many others have had great success going tubeless with Stan's rims.
From your comments two things jump out.
1) Since there is moisture forming at the nipples, it appears that the tape is not seated correctly. Remove the tape, clean the rim with alcohol, and when re-taping be certain to keep it centered, and stretch the hell out of it.
2) Use an awl, or a pen to poke the valve hole, and dip the inside portion of the valve in sealant before setting.
Also please be aware that not all tires work well with Stan's rims, best to do a search before buying tires to fit your new rims.
1st off, I and many, many others have had great success going tubeless with Stan's rims.
From your comments two things jump out.
1) Since there is moisture forming at the nipples, it appears that the tape is not seated correctly. Remove the tape, clean the rim with alcohol, and when re-taping be certain to keep it centered, and stretch the hell out of it.
2) Use an awl, or a pen to poke the valve hole, and dip the inside portion of the valve in sealant before setting.
Also please be aware that not all tires work well with Stan's rims, best to do a search before buying tires to fit your new rims.
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We are actually in North Eastern Neavada
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Who built your wheels? You bought them complete, correct?
When I build a wheel, it never makes a peep. I've seen some ugly builds come from the factories.
Flyin W is right. Your tape wasn't done properly. Stans rims are easy to set up tubeless.
When I build a wheel, it never makes a peep. I've seen some ugly builds come from the factories.
Flyin W is right. Your tape wasn't done properly. Stans rims are easy to set up tubeless.
Have you had a chance to talk to Jenson about them yet? I wouldn't give up on your choice of a Crest wheelset just yet, I just got another wheelset last month (Crest 29) which are my 3rd set of Stans Wheels and they were true and mounted both tires tubeless on the first attempt. No noise either - I would talk to Jenson and see what they recommend.
When I took it to the shop to get the rim tape replaced on the first wheel the owner called stans and they pretty much said the tape should be perfect and to charge me anyway. That kind of made me reluctant to do business with stans again. The fact that the wheels came out of the factory with a bad build that would require me to spend more money to get them right made me decide to just get a professional wheel builder to build me a set the right way the first time.
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Crests are prone to de-tensioning spokes when a tire is installed. There's another thread about this phenomena going on here: http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/tire-pressure-spoke-tension-777704.html
It appears that these wheels may require final re-tensioning and truing after the tire has been installed.
It appears that these wheels may require final re-tensioning and truing after the tire has been installed.
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yes!!!!!!!!
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I can understand your frustration. For what it's worth, I've got close to 1900 miles on my Crest wheels; they're easy to air up w/ Ignitors, and still as true as the day I bought them. All that said, they need to be very, very careful with how they deal with dissatisfied customers like you or their reputation will plummet in this day and age of bike forums and social media. Hope someone from Stans is watching your post and responding accordingly...I won't hesitate to dump them if they're not, because they've got a lot of quality competitors out there.
My 650b stan crest also need retaping out of the box. Easy todo, I just replaced the yellow stan tape with gorilla tape, no more leaks.
The rear one needed to be trued, also not that difficult to do it myself after watching some youtube videos. Now so much better, almost 100% true. Im pretty happy with my stan crest.
The rear one needed to be trued, also not that difficult to do it myself after watching some youtube videos. Now so much better, almost 100% true. Im pretty happy with my stan crest.
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