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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
MiNewt Now Has Seoul (beamshots)

UPDATE

Minewt now has a Seoul !! And a lot of light

See below

I posted this on CPF too, but thought there might be someone here who could offer some thoughts.

I bought the Nite rider Minewt LED and it will be fine as is for commuting, however, I began to wonder how difficult or possible it would be to "upgrade" the 4W LED to a Cree.

The LiIon batter pack does have some sort of circuitry that protects it and has a HIgh, Low, and Flash mode. It provides 6V when charged.

I took apart the Head unit to see the LED and the board to determine if this was feasible. When on, the LED draws 3V.

http://www.envsafety.com/MiNewt%20Board.htm

Now for the part I really need help with. Given the attached picture, can anybody tell me if a Cree or SCC led could be a replacement here? I figure since the battery is 6V LiIon and the LED is drawing 3W it must be a regulated step down board and not a boost (duh). Other than that what do you think?

I hope the answer is not "only way to find out is to try it" I tried to make the picture big enough with enough detail so that it might give someone with more knowledge enough detail to help.

Thanks much.
 

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Mmm... Tasty
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The XRE package will be a complete PIA to try and swap in there, but AFAIK, the SSC package shouldn't be a huge deal. Just isolate the electrically positive slug of the LED and solder it right in there. Basically, the LED gets squished between an optic (note the use of a squishy o-ring at the big end) and the casting.

Good luck
 

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Homer
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GMF said:
The XRE package will be a complete PIA to try and swap in there, but AFAIK, the SSC package shouldn't be a huge deal. Just isolate the electrically positive slug of the LED and solder it right in there. Basically, the LED gets squished between an optic (note the use of a squishy o-ring at the big end) and the casting.

Good luck,
-Damon
If the heatsink base is tied to the emitter, but its probably anodized, no prob there. The Minewt only uses one emitter, so that even decreases the chance of any problems with the negative slug. But thats something you'd have to measure yourself to be sure. A SSC P4 or Edison KLC-8 would be pretty simple to replace, just double check the electrical paths for closure.
 

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As long as the goop that provides the thermal transfer between the LED and board is not epoxy, you should be able to put an SSC P4 in there easily. Make sure the optic lines up before you solder the new LED in it’s place. The SSC sits a little lower then the existing Lux III’s so you may need to shim it up to get the right focus. Also the beam pattern can be off if the LED isn’t centered.

Don’t use a CREE because it probably won’t work at all with the existing optic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the suggestions. I do think that the SSC is the better bet. Looks like a SSC and Some AAA will be ordered and then a lot of finger crissing.

The reflector is very deep and should work pretty well with the LED. I hope

Wish me luck.

Also if anyone has some more thoughts like "Don't do it, you'll ruin the light" or "should work" great let me know
 

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Mmm... Tasty
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Just for the record, i have taken a Minewt apart, for whatever that is worth. I think it'll be a grand upgrade, but i would still recommend putting some sort of electrical insulator on the slug of the SSC LED. Likely nothing will happen if you don't, but i'd be wary of electrically connecting the housing to + when i'm sure things are designed to be more - oriented.

4 screws, swap the LED, add some more thermal goop, and bolt it back up.

Let us know how it works :thumbsup:
 

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I was just at an bike industry trade show in MN a couple of weeks ago and saw next years minewt. The rep said it was twice the brightness and had a longer burntime on the same battery. He also said when they start selling the new model they would offer an upgrade to existing owners of minewts. I believe you have to mail it in and they will do it for a small fee. He didn't tell me what LED it was but I'm pretty sure it was a seoul. It was ALOT brighter than the current one.

for what it's worth
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Modify or Wait

Thaks for that wheelierider. Now what do I do? MOdify it myslef or wait until the facotry can do it and keep the warranty?

I suppose if it happens soon enough I should wait. But seems like this should be a simple LED solder in job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
MInewt Now has Seoul

I bit the bullet and order a P4 U bin Seoul and put it into the Minewt.

WOW

This thing puts out a lot of light. I wish I had a way to measure it but I did take some before/after beam shots. If anyoen has a Minewt you know that there is a little blue glow on both the head and the battery to indicate its charge. The Seoul is so bright it almost washes the blue light on the head.

I went outside and compared it to my DiNotte 5W LiIon which used to be brighter than the MiNewt. Not anymore. The Minewt will now make an amazing second light on my helmet to compliment the DiNotte on the handlebars. The light has an amazing throw and not big rings. See the pictures. They were done on a digital about 4 feet from the wall. 1/4 sec 5.6f. The beams look a little less than round because of where/how I was holding it. It is still a nice round shape.

It does get warmer than the origianl 4W led, so cooling will be important.

Hope you like the results. I sure do. Now to do some runtimes at high and low.



 

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Nice Work!

Hope you like the results. I sure do. Now to do some runtimes at high and low.

I am looking forward to your run time info I have a couple P4-q's on order for my dual Minewt.
Did you use the Arctic Alumina Adhesive? Any tips?
Did the Minewt O-ring absorb the small height difference?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Runtime on High

I just finished the first runtime on high.

Ran for 2:45 when the Red Light came on. This indicates that approximately 15% of battery is left. I kept it running until it automatically shut off at 3:35.

So, not too bad. IIRC the runtime with the old 4W was right around 3:15 so now it is much, much brighter and get the same runtime. I will run it on low (which still seems brighter than the old 4W high) and see if it can hit 6+hours.

I did not use AAA I did use the AA thermal paste thhough. The board has a hole through the center, the LED sits on this hole and a small post from the housing goes through this hole and the LED sits right on the post that acts as a heat sink. If you own a soldering iron and two eyes, anyone can do this swap.

All in all, I would say a very worthy upgrade. I will post outside beamshots tonight so you can see the throw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Outside beam shots

I purchased the LED from the SanwichShoppe (www.theledguy.com) but they are available for cheaper from people like Wayne at Elektrolumens. I needed the AA too so to save on shipping I ordered it all from SS.

Now on to the beam shots. The fence is about 40 feet away pictures taken on digital 2 sec 5.6f:

First up the Dinotte 5W:


Next up, the MiNewt with the SSC P4:


Compare that with my NR Storm HID:


Now for the set up, DiNotte 5W on bars and MiNewt SSC on helmet:


I love the combination. Would like to hear what others have to think. Given that I can get 3.5 hrs easily out of the MiNewt on high or 6.6 hrs on low combined with the 6 hr runtime of the DiNotte 5W LiIon, this should be a great set up for the 24 hr races, group night rides, and simply commuting to work.

Update I charged up the NiteRider since it did not seem right. It is now more representative of the light that it gives out. The LED ooks brighter in the hotspot but that has more to do with the reflector and that it is a throw monster. The HID still gies a brighter and wider beam.

Hope it inspires.
 

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Great job! I've been inspired to upgrade my newt. One question that comes to mind is how the die is attached to the light body. Looking at the photo of the circuit it looks like the electrical connections are what holds the die on, is that right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
RobW said:
Great job! I've been inspired to upgrade my newt. One question that comes to mind is how the die is attached to the light body. Looking at the photo of the circuit it looks like the electrical connections are what holds the die on, is that right?
That is exactly correct. the LED is soldered on to the board. No AAA is used or needed. the board has a hole in the middle that the heat sink goes through and makes direct contact with the LED. just put a dab of AA on the LED.

Good luck.
 

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ZipMTB said:
That is exactly correct. the LED is soldered on to the board. No AAA is used or needed. the board has a hole in the middle that the heat sink goes through and makes direct contact with the LED. just put a dab of AA on the LED.

Good luck.
Beauty! Thanks for the info Zip. I'll post up my results once my led gets here...
 
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