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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok im gona make my own studed snow/ice tires . im gona be puting screw into the tries so they protrude about 3 to 5 mm out of the tire . to seal the tire and enshure the screws stay in plce im going to hot glue them from the inside then take some duct tape and tape over them so the tube doesn't rub the screw heads....... i know people have done it before so am i missing anything or is there a better way to do this besides buying a crapy studded trie that looks like it just has ball bearings pressed into it.
 

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kona-tize me captain
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one way that i have been wanting to do , but just done have the time to is basically the same thing as yours but stronger. i mean if your gonna take the time out to put that many studs in a tire u might as well make it last. my idea is to take a tire then put the screws through it from the inside, then around the screw or bolt put a nut around it on the outside of the tire then tightened it down some. that way it wont come out back into the tire, it wont move around as much, and help give support so the bolt or screw just doesnt get ripped out. thats my idea of doing i can get a pic if u need clarifying
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
austinb89 said:
one way that i have been wanting to do , but just done have the time to is basically the same thing as yours but stronger. i mean if your gonna take the time out to put that many studs in a tire u might as well make it last. my idea is to take a tire then put the screws through it from the inside, then around the screw or bolt put a nut around it on the outside of the tire then tightened it down some. that way it wont come out back into the tire, it wont move around as much, and help give support so the bolt or screw just doesnt get ripped out. thats my idea of doing i can get a pic if u need clarifying
i know what you mean . and the screws are going through from the inside.... for the amount of penitration i want though a bolt wouldn't work..... i just wat like 4 or 5 thread sticking/ out of the tire....
 

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Pan head sheet metal screws work great. Drill a pilot hole from the outside and then put the screws in from the inside. Cover the heads with a couple of layers of duct tape. No hot glue needed, the screws will not back out. You do not need more than 3mm of exposed screw for traction. More than that and traction suffers on hard non-icy surfaces.
 

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i was thinking of making studded tires too. i was thinking of using pop rivots becuase you could get some junky tires and put them in and they wouldnt come out. you would have to drill holes to put them in though. can you drill holes in tires?
 

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Too much effort!

Wow. Putting nuts on each bolt seems like it'd take a lot of extra time and effort. Personally, I've never had a screw back out into the tube, but I'm sure it happens. When I first started making studded snow tires for my (and my friends') bikes, I used to use pan head sheet metal screws (~3/8-inch long) and just use a drill/screw gun to screw them in from the inside. I'd put a layer or two of duct tape over the heads and I was off. Since then I've revised my methods. Once I come up with a pattern will fit an even number of times around the tire (I don't put a stud in every knobby), I press an awl (like a screwdriver with a point instead) through each knobby. Then I use 1/4--3/8-inch pan head sheet metal screws. Once they're all in, I clip off any excess screw protruding from the tire--trim them flush. In trimming them I've found that they are less likely to tear the tire, they don't just fold over, and it cuts down a **** load of rolling resistance. I also don't bother taping the heads--instead I run a thick DH tube. Anyway, I'm sure that there are a million different ways that this could be done; this one just works for me.
Primus
 

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Primus said:
Wow. Putting nuts on each bolt seems like it'd take a lot of extra time and effort. Personally, I've never had a screw back out into the tube, but I'm sure it happens. When I first started making studded snow tires for my (and my friends') bikes, I used to use pan head sheet metal screws (~3/8-inch long) and just use a drill/screw gun to screw them in from the inside. I'd put a layer or two of duct tape over the heads and I was off. Since then I've revised my methods. Once I come up with a pattern will fit an even number of times around the tire (I don't put a stud in every knobby), I press an awl (like a screwdriver with a point instead) through each knobby. Then I use 1/4--3/8-inch pan head sheet metal screws. Once they're all in, I clip off any excess screw protruding from the tire--trim them flush. In trimming them I've found that they are less likely to tear the tire, they don't just fold over, and it cuts down a **** load of rolling resistance. I also don't bother taping the heads--instead I run a thick DH tube. Anyway, I'm sure that there are a million different ways that this could be done; this one just works for me.
Primus
you trim the screw sticking out of the outside of the tire so theres no thing sticking out?
 

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Amazing Larry104 said:
you trim the screw sticking out of the outside of the tire so theres no thing sticking out?
Yes. I've found little, if any, difference in the traction with leaving them vs. trimming them. The only time I've had problems is when I've tried leaving them long. You're less likely to force one backwards, too. Which, incidentally, reminds me that I purposely use an awl instead of a drill to make the pilot holes in the tire--you want the screw to be as tight as possible (in more than one way, if you know what I mean :eek: )
 

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I used stainless pan head sheetmetal screws 1/4" long. Stainless is better for rust resistance. Then I used a grinder to trim them almost flush, they don't need to stick out much. I lined the tire with strips of rubber roofing material. You don't need that many studs either, more in the front than the rear. And get them towards the edges for traction when leaning in turns.
 

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HJB said:
I used stainless pan head sheetmetal screws 1/4" long. Stainless is better for rust resistance. Then I used a grinder to trim them almost flush, they don't need to stick out much. I lined the tire with strips of rubber roofing material. You don't need that many studs either, more in the front than the rear. And get them towards the edges for traction when leaning in turns.
Never had much problem with rust; any that forms would take quite a long time before any appreciable difference in traction could be noticed. By then, you'd have worn them down anyway. Plus, stainless costs like 2 or 3 times as much...always gotta think of da green!
 

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Primus said:
Yes. I've found little, if any, difference in the traction with leaving them vs. trimming them. The only time I've had problems is when I've tried leaving them long. You're less likely to force one backwards, too. Which, incidentally, reminds me that I purposely use an awl instead of a drill to make the pilot holes in the tire--you want the screw to be as tight as possible (in more than one way, if you know what I mean :eek: )
i want to make some of these. would it be better to use thiner tires or thicker ones? should i leave them sticking out becasue i want to do some drops with them into snow and i dont want my tires to slide out to the side.
 

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Amazing Larry104 said:
i want to make some of these. would it be better to use thiner tires or thicker ones? should i leave them sticking out becasue i want to do some drops with them into snow and i dont want my tires to slide out to the side.
The only time that I purchased a new tire to make studded tires out of is when I worked at a bike ship in Bozeman and I could get certain generic tires for like $5. In general, though, I just use my old tires (my studded tires are a pair of Maxxis Mobsters). Again, I don't think you need to bother leaving them sticking out, but you can always experiment to find what works best for you.
 

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Primus said:
Never had much problem with rust; any that forms would take quite a long time before any appreciable difference in traction could be noticed. By then, you'd have worn them down anyway. Plus, stainless costs like 2 or 3 times as much...always gotta think of da green!
Agreed. I just bought whatever panhead screws were on the shelf. No rust even 15 years later.
 

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Primus said:
Never had much problem with rust; any that forms would take quite a long time before any appreciable difference in traction could be noticed. By then, you'd have worn them down anyway. Plus, stainless costs like 2 or 3 times as much...always gotta think of da green!
$4.50 for a box of 100 aint exactly gonna break the bank and they wear longer than steel too.
 

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Master Jacko has the right idea, do a search i had a thread a while back about the same topic and many diagrams and good advice poped up from a whole bunch of sources...
 

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I do mine the same way Master Jako does his. I also use tube liners to line the inside of the tire. The screw heads are unable to puncture the liner. I figure if I'm going to do it, I might as well do it right and make sure it doesn't flat everytime I hit something.

My friend showed me his ghetto studded. It was with a pair of Bontrager Jones tires. He used an awl and punched holes through. Put aluminum nails through. Used the tube liners. He trimmed the nails so about an inch protruded from the tire. The nails wear down fairly quickly and contour themselves to the direction of rotation. A few rides across the frozen pond and a little bit of urban. No flats yet.
 

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Master_Jako said:
Last Winter...Had a blast with my home made studded 2.7 minion...

Definitely looks like a good way to go. I'd take the time to do something like this if I were to be doing mostly DH in the snow.
 

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how much is your time worth???? what are the tires.??? no more than 70 bucks??
 
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