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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since the second day riding the bike has been creaking. initially it FELT like it was the bb, but after changing it out it had the same noise, and i've traced it to the rear end.
I've tried removing it all, cleaning and reassembling. soon after it creaks again when i'm applying power to the pedals.
tried cleaning, greasing. that works for a while but that attracts dirt and the creak returns.
tried cleaning and putting anti-seize. same but it starts to creak sooner.
really wet riding makes it quiet though.

last night i disassembled it and cleaned it and gave a light roughing to the mating surface of the slidey recessed parts and reassembled tightly. no luck.

bolts can't get tighter when i do them with an multitool allen key set. maybe i need a longer lever to get extra torque or something.
i was also thinking of making a gasket out of thin foam...dunno. that creak is making me nuts though!

anyone have similar issues/solutions?

thanks.
 

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Pale-ale-ontologist
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Bontrager hub?

Try a light coating of grease on the splines of the freehub body and cog. Make sure all of the spacers, chainguards etc are clean and the lockring is torqued to the correct tightness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
response

J.T - if i greased the slidey dropouts and the noise stops for a bit, i'm doubting that its anything but the dropouts. good thought. i may do so anyways.

Crash_burn - no i haven't locktited the bolts yet, however when i check em during/post ride they seem fine (aka, friggin tight). and if i locktite them it'll be a larger pain when i want to switch between cogs for different terrrain (currently a 16t and a 19t cog depending).

i may try sanding the entire interface of the dropout/frame to see if that solves anything.
i'd also contact trek themselves if there was a way to do that, since i doubt they read much here.

thanks for the suggestions.
don
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Interesting

Crash_Burn said:
You would think the dropout assembly would be a place of concern.

in the photo above the bike has polished alu dropouts...production bikes are black painted. Wonder if thats an issue. i tried lightly sanding them, but they were really resistant to a file...which is both good and bad i guess.
 

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Hoops - Big and Small
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I've got a buddy at Trek I'll fire off a text message and see what he has to say.

If the bolts did'nt come with loctite on them it would be odd that they are supposed to have it on them.

I imagine these bikes had fairly good quality control as they are such a small batch.

Can you post a pic of your DO's?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Crash_Burn; thanks for that. this is all i've got just now. i'll grab another specific shot tonight if i think of it.


other pics here: https://www.donricker.smugmug.com/gallery/2731787/1

would i have to re-loctite the bolts each time i moved the dropouts?
i'm also wondering how hard i need to crank the holding bolts down, perhaps its harder than i can actually do without using some form of levered extension (aka a pipe).

maybe i'll just tool dip the dropouts and see what happens next :)
 

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Hoops - Big and Small
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Creaky 69er

I rode one of these bikes a couple of weeks ago and had a blast on it, took awhile to get the fork up to pressure for my weight (200lbs), once I got the right sag set, it ripped.

Dax (the NW Trek Demo rep) says BB and Crank arm connection is most likely, then drop out nuts then seatpost collar. I guess this would be his plan of attack if the bike was in front of him.

From your postings so far you mention tightening things, I would be very careful in not going to hard with over tightening. I know having a creaky bike (especially an SS) is not pleasant, but be very care when snugging things up.

Nice website BTW - hope you don't mind me pirating your photo, I can't really tell that the dropout is painted black? o.k. I see what your saying - doh

Wonder why they painted them in the production run - may look cool but it seems like the paint would eventually wear off.

Looks like you may need a longer stem - Maverick sells different lengths.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
hmmm

well its not the bb. i thought it was, was sure it was, so i replaced it with a new square taper bb and new cranks. same creak.

seatpost. nope. cleaned/lubed that too. it creaks standing or sitting.

back to the rear. hadn't considered the nuts specifically

the dropouts are a very hard anodized/rough textured metal. not sure what they used but its friggin durable.
thanks again.
 

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Pale-ale-ontologist
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paddlerx,

I had this same issue with a Bonty hub on another bike with out sliders and it drove me nuts. The splines on the hub were anodized and that was the problem. If you're swapping cogs give it a try. I personally think that grease between the sliders and frame will only attract dust and add to the problem.

I do have a Trek 69er too but it's been quiet so far. I have had mine apart to replace the cog and to look things over. From what I can tell the texture of the sliders grip the frame so again grease might not be good. jmho.

What cranks did you put on yours? I'm going to replace mine but only to go to 180mm I can't understand why Trek didn't spec longer arms on this bike... Especially on an XL
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
bonty hub; ok i'll give it a shot tonight. the bikes getting the 19 put on for a hilly ride tomorrow night (was just raced last night on the 16t). a light coating of grease it is. and here's hoping.

i found an old set of 'shimano hollowtech' cranks at the shop in a dusty bin. their 175s and as light or lighter than the bonty originals. the BCD was the same as the bonty so i just moved the rockring and the 32t chainring right over.

are you finding the bb a bit low? i'm tagging lots of rocks and roots, more than i used to. i was thinking about 180s as well but i'm already thinking clearance is an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Out Out Dam Creak!!!

OK, been riding the TT bike for a bit, but in prep for an upcoming dirt ride I went nuts last night trying to find the creak in the 69er.
Had already lubed the cog/spline interface prior to putting on a 19t.
Got some new bolts (Titanium!!!) and retightened everything: creak
Definitly isolated it to the rear of the bike.
Put antiseize around the dropouts: creak
Loosened the right side bolts: creak
Loosened the left side bolts: creak
So now for sure its NOT the interface between the slidey dropouts and the frame...interesting.
Loosened the QR for the wheel: creak (and the wheel moved when I torqued on the chain...not funny)
Took the bonty QR out and slid in a POS steel deore QR after giving it a bit of grease: NO CREAK
Dam it couldn't be that simple.
Tightened the whole thing back to spec. silence.
Switched QR's, back to the bontrager after greasing the snot out of it. SILENCE!!!!

Man.
i just hope my pain and suffering saves someone else.
probably not though...at least i'm not nuts anymore.

cheers and thanks for the input everyone.
 

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Hoops - Big and Small
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Bonty QR

paddlerx said:
Took the bonty QR out and slid in a POS steel deore QR after giving it a bit of grease: NO CREAK
I've always liked Shimano QR, the Bonty QR seems to take much more leverge to get them to work properly.

Glad to hear the Creak is gone - for now ;)
 

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QR creaking!

Paddlerx, Glad that you finally found the source of the creaking.

Mine started that creaking noise this weekend. Stopped halfway up a climb, released the rear QR, slightly tightened the nut maybe a quarter turn and closed it. Noise gone!
Chasing those things can drive you nuts but I got lucky this time!
I figured that you had done at least some of the troubleshooting during your attempts at isolating the noise. Thanks for posting your experiences.

JT
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Same issue?

i wonder if its the same issue. if it was a creak on every power phase of the pedal stroke (about 1-3o'clock on each crank arm) then i'd bet that's his issue. I'd be curious to know if this fix...fixes his problem.

don
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ghosts in my machine!!!!

Well i lied. the creak was gone, for about 10 minutes, then slowly and persistently...it came back.
not quite full on terrifying but bad enough.

more R&D required by me it seems. sigh.
 

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Hoops - Big and Small
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Maybe a light greasing of the threads on the skewer?

When do you engage the tension on the QR lever?

Seems like on the Bonty QR you want to feel contact at or about 135 - 120 degree (starting at 180 full open to 0 full closed), where as with shimano I make first contact at or about 90 degree.
 
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