[mlcktmguy]

I'm 6'2 220 and over 60 years old. Purchased a new Niner Air 9 RDO bike back in June that came with Race Face Next R Carbon cranks. Since I purchased the bike I've put about 750 miles on it. I trail ride with it. I don't jump or do anything that would put extra stress on the cranks, or any other part of the bike, or my body.

This past weekend the drive side crank arm developed some play in it. I checked the tightness of the crank bolts and they were fine. Took it to the bike shop and they told me the crank arm had become un-bonded from whatever it was supposed to be bonded to. The good news is Race Face is going to warranty the part. The bad news is the guys at the bike shop told me they had seen this issue with the same crank before. Mostly from people riding single speed fat bikes.

What kind of cranks are you Clyde's running? I like the light weight of these cranks but if they aren't going to be reliable I'll probably change them out when Race Face stops warrantying them.

 

[NorCal_In_AZ]

I’m 230lbs and I’m a not easy on my cranks. I’m on NX cranks and they’re fine. I’d say any alloy crank set should suit you just fine.

 

[Jayem]

I'm 6'2 220 and over 60 years old. Purchased a new Niner Air 9 RDO bike back in June that came with Race Face Next R Carbon cranks. Since I purchased the bike I've put about 750 miles on it. I trail ride with it. I don't jump or do anything that would put extra stress on the cranks, or any other part of the bike, or my body.

This past weekend the drive side crank arm developed some play in it. I checked the tightness of the crank bolts and they were fine. Took it to the bike shop and they told me the crank arm had become un-bonded from whatever it was supposed to be bonded to. The good news is Race Face is going to warranty the part. The bad news is the guys at the bike shop told me they had seen this issue with the same crank before. Mostly from people riding single speed fat bikes.

What kind of cranks are you Clyde's running? I like the light weight of these cranks but if they aren't going to be reliable I'll probably change them out when Race Face stops warrantying them.

Stay away from the RF carbon fiber cranks. They suck. They don't even hold up for lighter riders riding on snow. Myself and many of my friends have been through many sets of these. They are crap. RF makes some decent metal cranks, they are good. If you want CF cranks, SRAM uses a metal skeleton that prevents this from happening, XO is their "enduro" orientated model (not XX). That said, a good strong metal crank like RF Atlas or Shimano Saint is a decent idea. Some people with a big frame, not necessarily super heavy, can put a lot of stress on parts.

 

[Shark]

Do yourself a favor and sell the replacement when they warranty it.

I'm on my third and I just got sick of going through the process....

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[WHALENARD]

Heavier than you and I'm a fan of X01's.

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[CLDSDL43]

Heavier than you and I'm a fan of X01's.

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I second the X01. 265 here and have 3 yrs on a set.

 

[915654]

6’3” 195lbs use gx crank no problems.

 

[SoDakSooner]

220 X01 carbon, no issues. I've hit some moderately size drops (5 to 6 feet) to transitions, jumps, etc... I don't take it easy and have had no probs to this point.

 

[TooTallUK]

Shimano alu cranks on road, gravel and mountain bike. Used them for decades, never had an issue. I ride lardcore and have no grace whatsoever. I did, however, learn to stop mashing and do more spinning a long time ago. I'm 6'7" and 250 so I'm stressing them hard enough.

 

[Sparticus]

My GF rides RF Next CF cranks — she weighs 105#.

So far, so good.

Me? I’m 185# riding RF Aeffects (on 2 bikes) but I DO jump, drop and traverse hectic terrain. I expect the Aeffects would hold up under you given your use as described. If you want something even stronger, RF’s Atlas crank is intended for abusive riding.
=sParty

 

[Mac_89]

I rode NX GXP and GX DUB cranks for 2 years each on a budget trail bike and never had a problem. I was 250lbs at my heaviest doing rocky all mountain rides and flow trails with small jumps and drops.

The NX GXP were definitely heavier and a bit flexy. I didn't notice any flex on the GX DUB. They felt really solid and I wouldn't hesitate to buy another set in the future.

Currently have a Hope Evo crankset which has been rock solid, if a little overpriced considering it doesn't do anything better than the GX, but it does look nice.

 

[ttengineer]

I’m 260 fully kitted with water and I swapped to Cane Creeks titanium eeWings. They are the strongest crank on the market while also being exceptionally light. I think they are in the top 3 for weight.

I absolutely love them. Especially paired with an absolute black oval ring.

They’re spendy though. $1,100 msrp, but you can usually get them for $800-$900 online with coupon codes.


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[abeckstead]

Been seeing quite a few broken carbon crank posts on mtb groups on the book of faces.
Personally, I wouldn't even consider running carbon cranks unless it's on a bike I plan to race... up hills.

 

[mlcktmguy]

Thanks for all of the help and suggestions. I'm definitely switching over to aluminum cranks. Prefer Shimano XT since i've got thousands of trouble free miles with them on my Stache. Finding them in stock anywhere is proving difficult.

 

[GoldenPromise]

XT M8100 cranks are a bargain. My last set was 137 shipped off eBay, and they are holding up great. I crashed hard on the 4th of July, tearing my rotator cuff completely off the humerus, cranks got a tiny little scratch. I'd say these cranks are tougher than me.

eeWings are rad if you can afford them, but not essential. I would avoid carbon cranks. Lots of issues there.

 

[Coal-Cracker]

I'm at your weight and ride Shimano XT8100 cranks. Mostly rocky trails with some moderate jumps and drops. Even the occasional day at the downhill park. Zero issues.
The trick, right now, is finding them. When desperate, I've had good luck with overseas ebay sellers - just make absolutely sure they have an outstanding seller rating.

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[Mongoguy]

I'm in the same boat... broken carbon x1's and Shimano XTR this year, finished out the season on carbon Stylos and they flex bad enough that my chain stay is getting chewed up!
I'm building a new Ti ss speed up after destroying my Pivot Les frame. 1st I cracked a chain stay, repaired that and then cracked BB shell. As a 230-240lb xc Clyde who routinely hits 1000-1200 watts, really don't think its just an issue of bodyweight. Lateral strength of components are what hurt us, cranks and frames just aren't designed for lateral strength. A 140lb pro may put out huge wattage when attacking, but hey wont generate the lateral power a Clyde generates on a climb or rocking a ss bike at full power.

~Mongo

 

[DrDon]

I had good luck with X01. RaceFace carbon not so much. I have XTs on my SS and eeWings on my AM. For the money I like SLX. Heavy duty, consider Saints or Atlas, but would be over kill for the OP’s bike. I don’t get air. I’m 230 and at one time could lay down some torque like Mongoguy but I’m older now


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[DrDon]

Been seeing quite a few broken carbon crank posts on mtb groups on the book of faces.
Personally, I wouldn't even consider running carbon cranks unless it's on a bike I plan to race... up hills.
View attachment 1958105

Anymore to that story? XO1 failure after 10 rides is unusual.


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[tyreed70]

XT work fine for me racing enduro etc...