REVIEWS DEALS BIKESHOPS TRAILS

CPS bolt adjustments... yeah bb7 material

1181 Views 3 Replies 3 Participants Last post by shiggy, Aug 13, 2010

Mr Pink57

Discussion Starter · Jul 8, 2010

So my front brake is still rubbing like crazy. Even more now at a brieft CPS bolt adjustment. I read the pdf file on avid's site about this and I just want some insight on how others have doen it to align the rotor.

The instructions basically are to tighten the inboard/outboard until it is tight against the rotor and you cannot move the brake lever, once done tighten down your CPS bolts, and then back of the inboard/outboard about 2 to 3 clicks. After doing this my front rubs more now then ever before. I bought the brakes online so I do not get much shop help nor do I really want any from them, I'd rather do this all on my own.

Thans for any insight. The brake noise is a high pitch almost metal zing sound. I am using G2 clean sweep rotors 185/160 which came standard on the bike with the Juicy 3s originally installed (got rid of them due to turkey gobble).

Save

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

shiggy

· #2 · Jul 8, 2010

Mr Pink57 said:
So my front brake is still rubbing like crazy. Even more now at a brieft CPS bolt adjustment. I read the pdf file on avid's site about this and I just want some insight on how others have doen it to align the rotor.

The instructions basically are to tighten the inboard/outboard until it is tight against the rotor and you cannot move the brake lever, once done tighten down your CPS bolts, and then back of the inboard/outboard about 2 to 3 clicks. After doing this my front rubs more now then ever before. I bought the brakes online so I do not get much shop help nor do I really want any from them, I'd rather do this all on my own.

Thans for any insight. The brake noise is a high pitch almost metal zing sound. I am using G2 clean sweep rotors 185/160 which came standard on the bike with the Juicy 3s originally installed (got rid of them due to turkey gobble).

Just try again. You can not loosen the bolts too much and you have too loosen them just enough.

And do not take the 2-3 clicks as absolute. Adjust as needed.

I tend to loosen the bolts. Set the inner pad to ~halfway in the caliper (centering the rotor). Then wiggle the caliper slightly as I pull the brake lever. Lightly hold the caliper with the inner pad flat on the rotor, then then tighten the outer pad. Now tighten the bolts.
Sounds more complicated than it is. I can do it in under a minute.
Also make sure the rotors are true.

Save

Redley78

· #3 · Aug 13, 2010

I upgraded my avid rear rotor from a 160 to 185. (I needed a new mount bracket to properly install it.) However, after installation i found that i am not getting the proper braking power. Am i missing something, becuz i would expect the larger rotor to have greater braking power and i am receiving less. Is there a way to properly adjust or tune the calipers to get more power out of them? I have slight rubbing on the rotor, but it shouldnt be causing me less power.

Save

shiggy

· #4 · Aug 13, 2010

Redley78 said:
I upgraded my avid rear rotor from a 160 to 185. (I needed a new mount bracket to properly install it.) However, after installation i found that i am not getting the proper braking power. Am i missing something, becuz i would expect the larger rotor to have greater braking power and i am receiving less. Is there a way to properly adjust or tune the calipers to get more power out of them? I have slight rubbing on the rotor, but it shouldnt be causing me less power.

The pads need to bed in to the new rotor.

Yes, you do need to tune the brakes properly. There are dozens of threads here outlining the method.

Save

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month