[Craig Woodhall]

Hey guys, got myself a 2005 Rockey Mountain Switch S1 and am buying a bunch of Park Tools. Aside from the generic ones, im not sure about the chain break, crank puller, bottom bracket tool, cassette remover, and chain whip..

here is a link to the bike

http://www.bikes.com/bikes/2005/switch/switch-s1.aspx

the Park tools i chose were:

Park BBT-2 for the bottom bracket, Park CWP-6 for the cranks, Park CT-6 for the chain puller, Park FR-5g for the cassette, and Park SR-1 for the chain whip..

any help would be greatly appreciated..

Craig

 

[Craig Woodhall]

nobody wants to take a stab at it ??

 

[cdad_martinez]

Don't forget the park P-handle torx wrench!

 

[Craig Woodhall]

got that one, thanks man!

 

[Ratt]

Hey guys, got myself a 2005 Rockey Mountain Switch S1 and am buying a bunch of Park Tools. Aside from the generic ones, im not sure about the chain break, crank puller, bottom bracket tool, cassette remover, and chain whip..

here is a link to the bike

http://www.bikes.com/bikes/2005/switch/switch-s1.aspx

the Park tools i chose were:

Park BBT-2 for the bottom bracket, Park CWP-6 for the cranks, Park CT-6 for the chain puller, Park FR-5g for the cassette, and Park SR-1 for the chain whip..

any help would be greatly appreciated..

Craig

You have an X-type bottom bracket so you need a Park BBT-9 for the BB and the crank is self-extracting.

That CT-6 looks slicker than snot but breaking chains can be a pita that for in the "shop" a non-folding breaker maybe a better way to go.

Park makes great tools for sure but the FR-5g does not have a hole in the back to attach a rachet to it like a Lifu. When you are balancing a wheel trying to keep the chain whip in place and get a monkey wrench closed on the lockring tool in the just right 2 o'clock position it's much easier just to whip out the rachet and crank it.

 

[Craig Woodhall]

Ratt,

thanks for the advice, appreciate it.. so i will scratch the BBT-2 and the CWP-6 and make it a BBT-9 for the BB and nothing for the cranks.

I also changed the chain tool to the CT-3.

I last question, if i don't need the FR-5g, what tool do i need and do i need a lockring tool as well? sorry for the newbie questions.

Craig

 

[Ratt]

........I last question, if i don't need the FR-5g, what tool do i need and do i need a lockring tool as well? .....

The FR-5g is a lockring tool to remove the lockring that holds the cassette on the hub. I was just saying i have a preference for one that attaches to a rachet wrench like a socket. You will also need a chainwhip to make it work or the cassette will just spin around. Parktools has some good tech tips.

It's a good idea to have these handy if you need to service your hub or replace a worn or bent cassette.

 

[Craig Woodhall]

Ratt,

thanks for posting and helping me out.. I like the idea of attaching to a wrench like a socket. can you give me a model number for that style lockring tool that will work for me?

thanks again, Ratt,

Craig

 

[Ratt]

Ratt,

thanks for posting and helping me out.. I like the idea of attaching to a wrench like a socket. can you give me a model number for that style lockring tool that will work for me?

thanks again, Ratt,

Craig

Well there isn't a specific model i had in mind just a general design. You could go to your LBS and see if they have one. Performance house brand has a socket on the end, the Nashbar looks like the same thing but a bit cheaper.

 

[zapp]

Well there isn't a specific model i had in mind just a general design. You could go to your LBS and see if they have one. Performance house brand has a socket on the end, the Nashbar looks like the same thing but a bit cheaper.

I agree with that I bought one from performance years ago and it has served me well, and it does make life easy.