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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wasn't sure where to post this so mods can move if necessary.
Approximately what can I expect to pay for mid range (except XT brakes) complete build on a hard tail w/140mm fork,29 wheels? Basically everything but the frame and headset.Also,given the option on the frame should I 100% go for a tapered head tube? It's a $200 + option over a straight tube on this particular frame.Thanks in advance for the help as I have absolutely no idea what to expect or what all I would need.I would most likely have my bike shop order everything and pay them to assemble it.They have always treated me good so I wouldn't want to just show up with everything and have them build it.
They(Kingdom Bike) don't offer the bike as a complete build as of now.
 

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Actually the standard straight option is 44mm. Would you mind explaining why I should go with the straight in this instance?
.westcoasthucker is correct. A 44mm headtube will fit any modern tapered fork. A tapered headtube simply uses a different headset, functionally they're the same thing. 44mm headtube uses an external lower headset cup, a tapered headtube uses an internal lower bearing. That's all.
 

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Well, the range varies tremendously depending on taste and spec. I'm building a raw frame right now, doing all the labor myself, trying to find used and parts bin where I can and that $ is around $1500. $500 in a used Lyrik with rebuild kit, and $350 in wheels. $200 in brakes, and $100 in tires, I'm using a parts bin drivetrain and cranks, but that could be $350 to $1000 easy. The rest is the small parts, which could be $$$ (a Brooks seat? Chris King Headset? Wheels Mfg BB? $200 dropper) or could be all generics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, the range varies tremendously depending on taste and spec. I'm building a raw frame right now, doing all the labor myself, trying to find used and parts bin where I can and that $ is around $1500. $500 in a used Lyrik with rebuild kit, and $350 in wheels. $200 in brakes, and $100 in tires, I'm using a parts bin drivetrain and cranks, but that could be $350 to $1000 easy. The rest is the small parts, which could be $$$ (a Brooks seat? Chris King Headset? Wheels Mfg BB? $200 dropper) or could be all generics.
I did specify a mid-range build.
 

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Actually the standard straight option is 44mm. Would you mind explaining why I should go with the straight in this instance?
The external cup headset will add about 10mm to your stack height, so be aware of that, unless the frame is designed to take that into account. Hardly any new forks are being manufactured with 1-1/8 straight steerer tubes, so unless you are building the bike with an existing 1-1/8 straight steerer fork or plan to purchase a used one, I'd opt for the tapered head tube.

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The external cup headset will add about 10mm to your stack height, so be aware of that, unless the frame is designed to take that into account. Hardly any new forks are being manufactured with 1-1/8 straight steerer tubes, so unless you are building the bike with an existing 1-1/8 straight steerer fork or plan to purchase a used one, I'd opt for the tapered head tube.
Huh?

Pretty sure anyone building a frame with a 44mm headtube is taking into account the external lower headset cup. No frame builder would not account for that.

There's nothing wrong with 44 headtubes. I have them on at least 6-7 bikes. There is no benefit to me in having a tapered headtube. I have bikes with those too, only I have more headset spacers on those bikes, which just looks worse.
 

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a few answers:
  • If you have to ask to can't afford it
  • your Kingdom frame + parts (you won't get all the parts you want anyway due to availability) + shop's labour, will likely be 30% greater than buying a complete mid range bike from some other manufacturer that is available
  • just buy a mid range bike and add 10% to the cost for every component you want to change
  • $10 for your shop supplies if you already have all the tools, know how, and a big parts bin(s)
  • $20,000+ to assemble all the tools, mechanicing know how (which involves the cost of wrecking parts over the years and learning from your mistakes), plus the big parts bin(s) (your big parts bin will not be just the exact parts you need right now, but include a collection of all your previous bike parts that will not be usably for your current build)
 

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Huh?

Pretty sure anyone building a frame with a 44mm headtube is taking into account the external lower headset cup. No frame builder would not account for that.

There's nothing wrong with 44 headtubes. I have them on at least 6-7 bikes. There is no benefit to me in having a tapered headtube. I have bikes with those too, only I have more headset spacers on those bikes, which just looks worse.
I never said there's anything wrong with a 44mm head tube. I have one as well.

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I never said there's anything wrong with a 44mm head tube. I have one as well.
You specifically recommended a tapered headtube. Why?

The external cup headset will add about 10mm to your stack height, so be aware of that, unless the frame is designed to take that into account. Hardly any new forks are being manufactured with 1-1/8 straight steerer tubes, so unless you are building the bike with an existing 1-1/8 straight steerer fork or plan to purchase a used one, I'd opt for the tapered head tube.
Am I misreading this?
 
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