Which rims and spokes and nipples are you using? Spoke tension depends more on the spoke/nipples than the rims. Any Mavic rims *should* be able to take whatever your spokes and nipples can.
Not really, The rim does have a lot to do with it. Some of the lighter mavic rims will start to crack around the eyelets from to high of tension. even though you can tension a Dt competition to 185kgf there really is not much of a reason to. 135 to 140kgf is more then enough unless you are using superlight spokes then 120 to 125kgf is a good high number.Hardtails Are Better said:Which rims and spokes and nipples are you using? Spoke tension depends more on the spoke/nipples than the rims. Any Mavic rims *should* be able to take whatever your spokes and nipples can.
The 517 was actually notorious for crackly prematurely around the eyelets.Hardtails Are Better said:You're right, I didn't say that very well. Is hould have said that with a good, strong, eyeleted rim, the spokes are more of a limiting factor than the rim. At least that holds true from my experience. I've had Mavic 517's, 717's and 220's all at about 150kgf, no issues. That's using Ritchey Logic (DT really) 2.0/1.6/2.0 spokes. Aluminum nipples. Acually, I did crack a 717 once, but that was from an impact with a square edged rock, where the tube completely deflated instantly, and the rim hit the rock hard. I was going, oh, maybe 30-35. Don't think I can blame that on the build. The crack wasn't at an eyelet either.
You'll need to check the Park conversion table supplied with your tensionmeter to get a number that means something to non Park users. The 23 = 95 kfg and 18 = 56 kfg for a 2.0mm spoke.DOUBLEJ said:I just built up my first rear wheel with a mavic 517, xt non disc hub, dt 2.0 spokes, and dt brass nipples. I'm curious to see if I used the correct tension: drive side on my park tension meter is 23 and non drive is 18. Do you think this will work, I weigh about 185 if that is part of the equation.