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Squalor
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1,573 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To take my square taper quest/saga one step further, I have a chance to get some NOS Cook Bros square taper BBs and I wanted to get some info about them.

I believe some have ti spindles and some do not. They all have the "euro" designation and are not labeled for 68 or 73mm shells. They only have "euro" and then a spindle width (and most of them are pretty long by current standards in the 122mm range). The bearings are actually pressed into the cups as opposed to housed around the spindle a la Shimano UN72. They actually look pretty complicated in the package - lots of spacers and washers and things in there.

Are these BBs worth using or are they just old relics? Will they fit a 68mm BB shell (I do not know what "euro" means.) I have been using UN72s and 52s with no problem, but these BBs looked neat and I guess I am just a hold out for this old fancy stuff.

What do you guys think?

Also, any opinion on the Cook cranks? The ones I am looking at are similar to these but the arms are silver w/ an anoed red portion where the chainrings attach on the driveside crankarm.

Thanks for all the help, and sorry for all the newbie questions. It is just really hard to find info on these older (but seemingly nicer than many of the newer) components.

LP
 

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IVMTB & VMBEFG Illuminati
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1,493 Posts
sounds like you have a BMX bottom bracket. Euro means that they are a conversion from the large diameter BMX shell to run a normal 3 piece crank set up. i might be interested in them since i do have a BMX project here that could use a Euro bottom bracket.
 

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Mantis, Paramount, Campy
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4,734 Posts
My Biased Opinion

Step away from the BB and run........

I have owned 2 of these and they were the biggest pieces of junk on the face of the earth. I bought one and installed it and was thinking yay a reasonably light BB with tons of adjustability. But then the cups went out of round causing the collars that hold the spindle in to bind up. And this eventually led to the driveside cup unthreading (although unevenly which stripped the cup and my BB shell) durring a ride which pulled the spindle slowly to that side until the non-drive are bottomed out against the chainstay ending the ride and the frame for the most part.
The second one appeared to be fine but I removed it from the bike I got it with and sold it based on my prior experience.
Also the bearings aren't a regular size. The spindle is not 17mm like most other BB spindles of this style. Bearings aren't hard to find but if you go into a LBS the flunky behind the counter probably wont be familiar with the Cook Bros BB and give you the wrong bearings....happend to me twice...once when I even gave them the old bearing with the number still clearly visable.

The cranks on the other hand are pretty nice. They are still too pricey (most of the time) for me but if I ended up with a set they would deffinately get used.
 

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Squalor
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1,573 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You guys are amazing...

Ok - this info is good to know!

The BBs are pretty spendy as well (about $100 each) but I thought if they were one of those things that would last forever (like a Phil) it might be worth it.

I guess not.

I do still really like the cranks though. Is $100 for a NOS set (just the arms - no rings) too much? If they are of good quality, I could get those cranks, a set of RaceFace rings and a Phil BB and come out cheaper than a new XTR setup and not have those outboard bearings.

They would definately look better!

LP
 

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Mantis, Paramount, Campy
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4,734 Posts
Sounds Pretty Good

$100 NOS is a pretty fair price. Used arms sometimes go for double that on eBay.

And good call on the Phil BB. They are great and will last forever and will be cheaper than the Cook Bros you mentioned.
 

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Registered
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5,987 Posts
What year did the Cook e-type cranks come out?
 

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Squalor
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1,573 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Ok well, I went ahead and bought the cranks. Any info? Are these Cooks any good? My buddy said that Cook made some "dogbone" cranks that were better, but that these were good square taper cranks back in the day.

So what is the story on these babies. I have no idea what year they are or any of that.

FWIW - I looked more closely at the Cook BBs he had and we just could not figure out what shell they were for. Both lengths were 120mm and one had a ti spindle with what looked like a lockring in front of the cups, I guess to keep the spindle from sliding out?

LP (hoping these cranks aren't considered fragile as well)
 

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Of the Cook cranks, the E Type is nice though I like the F Type (wider arm) then the RSR's more. Great price though for a NOS set.

I actually bought Shayne's Cook BB remnants to complete one I had. I'll never use it becuase I know its a crappy design, but I was mising one of the lockrings. The ability to determine outboard position of spindle is nice but the lockring thinking sucks.

As a rule, $100 for any NOS high end 90's era crank is a good buy, with a few exceptions...
 

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On the BB width issue, they fit any width of shell as the bearing sit outboard and there are no collars on the interior to size things.

I have one in my brodie, think the bearing holders are probably fused in there as they have not been out in over 10 years.

The bearings are a crazt size-5/8 interior (hair smaller actually) and a metric outer diameter. Ended up getting good SKF's honed to fit the spindle.
 

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VRC Illuminati
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lanpope said:
Ok well, I went ahead and bought the cranks. Any info? Are these Cooks any good? My buddy said that Cook made some "dogbone" cranks that were better, but that these were good square taper cranks back in the day.
Those are the Cook Bros 'E' type cranks.

Pretty light weight, and are (for the most part) a pretty strong set of cranks.
I've never heard of anyone having issues with Cook Bros product.

The 'dog bone' cranks might be cooler, but no better or worse than what you have in your hand IMO.

I've got two sets of 'E' cranks. One does SS duty, the other on my race bike. Zero issue so far.

Here's some reading for you:
http://www.bikepro.com/products/cranks/cooks.html
 
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