Converting Rockhopper SS to 1x9

I'm not sure what ESP means but I do know that SRAM and Shimano use different ratios to move gears. Shimano's is a 2:1 and SRAM is 1:1 the shifters and rear derailleur don't cross (You can't run Shimano shifter with SRAM derailleurs). That combo that you have would work. I've actually been a Shimano person until my bro got a SRAM setup on his new bike. His isn't even the X9 but it still shifts very smoothly. A cheep 1X9 Setup would be

SRAM X5 Rear Derailure ($35)(From Price Point)
SRAM X5 Right Shfiter ($34)(From Universal Cycles (they sell just right or left)
SRAM PG970 Cassette ($27) (From PP)
SRAM PC-971 Chain ($18) (From PP)
of course with Cables and all the odds and ends and a N-Gear Jump stop.

If I were buying the parts I would almost go this route unless I had the extra money. Although the better shifting is nice I'm fine with X5 for the time being. The one BIG thing to check is if you have a single speed specific rear hub. If it can accept a cassette then you should be good to go but if it only accepts a single speed then you need to switch the rear hub. On the website it says "Specialized, cassette, forged alloy, double sealed, ground race, QR, 32h w/ conversion kit for single speed cog" So I'm not sure if it has a SS or 9 Speed Hub? Only way to check would be to take it to the dealer or host a picture for us to see. Good luck and if you have any more questions feel free to PM me or ask on here. I'll try to help as best I can.

SRAM X.9 Rear derailleur, short cage
SRAM X.5 Shifter, or whatever you prefer here (X.7 is identical internally to the X.5)
SRAM PG980 cassette, 11-32T (alloy carrier and within 10 grams of a PG990, 32T since no steep hills in FL)
KMC X.9 SL chain
MRP 1.X chainguide (superior in weight and performance to a jumpstop+bash)
Jagwire Ripcord derailleur kit

there's no reason to get anything less than a X.9 RD unless you are living off Ramen already. The majority of the shifting performance comes from the rear derailleur.

as for cable routing, see m setup below:


The white colored housing. Run it parallel with the rear brake housing (you can zip tie it to the rear brake housing) until the seat-tube. Then, split it off to the drive side and zip tie it to the drive side seat stay.

PSpuza said:

SRAM X5 Rear Derailure ($35)(From Price Point)
SRAM X5 Right Shfiter ($34)(From Universal Cycles (they sell just right or left)
SRAM PG970 Cassette ($27) (From PP)
SRAM PC-971 Chain ($18) (From PP)
of course with Cables and all the odds and ends and a N-Gear Jump stop.

If I were buying the parts I would almost go this route unless I had the extra money. Although the better shifting is nice I'm fine with X5 for the time being. The one BIG thing to check is if you have a single speed specific rear hub. If it can accept a cassette then you should be good to go but if it only accepts a single speed then you need to switch the rear hub. On the website it says "Specialized, cassette, forged alloy, double sealed, ground race, QR, 32h w/ conversion kit for single speed cog" So I'm not sure if it has a SS or 9 Speed Hub? Only way to check would be to take it to the dealer or host a picture for us to see. Good luck and if you have any more questions feel free to PM me or ask on here. I'll try to help as best I can.

Click to expand...

Where were you guys before I bought?!? You know, these days, people need instant gratification... I couldn't wait, so I went ahead & got all X9 gear last night + ordered the der hanger from Specialized. Here's what I got:


I've since been asked why gripshift; I thought I'd like it. I guess I'll see, I realize that most people use the trigger, and I may just take a look at the shifter & send it back in favor for the X9 trigger.

As for the rear hub, I think I can fit a 9-speed cassette on there. The most telling photo I can take is the one showing the hub spacers (as shown from the bottom, with the bike in the missionary position):



...also, here's a photo of the right-side rear dropout, flipped to rubber-side down, but taken from a strange upward angle:

CHSAD said:

If I had to choose, I would probably get the nicest shifter I could afford and skimp on the rear der. I say that because you will feel high quality shifting the most through the shifter and not the vulnerable rear der. I saw speedgoat has the X9 rear shifter for 59.00.

Click to expand...

I'll look at speedgoat if I decide to go with the trigger; any input on trigger vs. gripshift as it applies to this build? I'll do a search, too...

Lambdamaster said:

SRAM X.9 Rear derailleur, short cage
SRAM X.5 Shifter, or whatever you prefer here (X.7 is identical internally to the X.5)
SRAM PG980 cassette, 11-32T (alloy carrier and within 10 grams of a PG990, 32T since no steep hills in FL)
KMC X.9 SL chain
MRP 1.X chainguide (superior in weight and performance to a jumpstop+bash)
Jagwire Ripcord derailleur kit
there's no reason to get anything less than a X.9 RD unless you are living off Ramen already. The majority of the shifting performance comes from the rear derailleur.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I had initially decided to go with 11-32T for that reason; however, I went with the 34 because I figured I wouldn't be spending much time there, & if I ever wanted to go that low I would have it available. I have a 16T on the rear now & like that just fine, it just doesn't give me the "top end" I want. As for the short cage, I would have done that but it was an additional $20-$30 and I wasn't sure what I'd gain from it. (quicker shifts?)

I'll look into that MRP part. The Jagwire (like this one?) is a fully-jacketed cable? After I settle on a shifter, my next task is going to be cable routing. I found several solutions, and last night confirmed that I've got a threaded hole in my BB to accept a cable guide of some sort.

Any other tips before I buy more sh*t I don't need?

I actually like gripshift.. somewhat, but when you just run one it's hard to find a set of grips that has one shortened for the grip shift and the other one long. (You'd have to buy two sets of lizard skins logos one short and other long to have the same type of grips). Another thing is that if your climbing/descending you may accidentally change gears because it takes up part of your handle. On the upside it looks a lot more simple and clean coming from a SS to 1X9.
If you have full housing, under the BB should just be fine but if it's not then mud can get in there and make shifting harder. Another thing is that you don't have to have a MRP Chain guide although it's nice.

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CH409Z14-N+Gear+Jump+Start+Chain+Deflector.aspx

That would work just fine if you put your chain in the highest cassette ring and set it as close as you can without touching. Redline uses the N Gear Jump Stop on ther 1X9/8's. The 34 tooth cassette is a wise decision since you're only running one chainring in the front you can't just drop it into the granny gear (Unless you get a Hammerschmidt ).