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has training wheels
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
EDITED: New parts pics start here.

I'm new to the forum and relatively new to riding; this is my first MTB, anyway. I've got a bone stock 2009 Rockhopper Expert Disc 29 Single-Speed that I bought used a couple of days ago. I was most interested in the 29" wheels & low weight of the bike. Out riding yesterday on the 58,000-square-mile flat spot we call Florida, I ran out of gears pretty fast. I love how smooth the bike is, and I like the idea of single-speed, but I think I need more speed. Currently, the rear is a 16T (instead of the 20T stock).

Being new to mountain bikes, I don't really have a handle on what I need to get for a 1x9 setup. Here's my list so far...

My question is... what parts will I need? What's compatible with what? Here's my initial list:

* derailleur hanger
* rear derailleur
* rear cassette
* new chain
* shift lever & cable

Is that all I need? Now the part that I need some help with... I'm planning to buy piece-by-piece, and I want to be certain everything plays nicely together. Any thoughts? Things like cable routing I'm sure I'll run into along the way, but I'll burn that bridge when I get to it...

Thanks in advance!
 

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The Other Dude
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That looks like all that you will need, and you will have to get creative with the cable routing as there are not cable stops on the bike. You can get the drop out with the derailleur hanger from you LBS for around $24. And SRAM X.9 is always a solid choice for the shifter and rd. You may want to consider a 3rd eye chain keeper, and a bashring for your crank so you dont drop a chain.

I am running a 1x9 on my stumpy right now, and it works fine with just a bash guard, i havent dropped a chain yet, i would run the 3rd eye for some extra security, but it wont fit low enough on the tapered seat tube. But i have over 80 miles on it, and i havent dropped a chain yet. Or you could get one of the MRP, Phil Wood or E13 offerings.
 

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has training wheels
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Awesome--thanks. Will look into the SRAM components. Heard of them, of course, but don't know where to start.

Now, I'm pretty mechanical; I change oil, brakes, bearings, intakes, etc., and all things electrical on cars--but I'm not sure what a 3rd eye chain keeper is. A "chain guide" of some sort is as close as I can figure. I can guess what a bashring looks like. (Google is your friend!) So I'm just going to buy some components & dive in. What's LBS? "_____ Bike Supply"??
 

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has training wheels
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
OK, nearly there; but I have some questions about the SRAM X9 grip shift I found on Amazon.com. The description indicates it ONLY works with ESP derailleurs?? What is that? I can find nothing on the SRAM X9 der that suggests it's "ESP." The SRAM website is no help; as a matter of fact, the 'mountain' section under products appears to be broken.

So is the shifter above compatible with this midcage SRAM X9 rear der?? I'm ready to push the "checkout" button!!!

**no worries** Found a midcage der at bicyclebuys.com that indicated it was "ESP". I don't know what this is (ratio?), but as long as it works with the shifter I'll be happy.
 

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Not sure I would go grip, unless that is your preference. Seems today most people that run a gripshift only do so on the front der.
 

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has training wheels
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What does ESP mean? Google's not helping much... any difference between that & the rest of the X9 product line?
 

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I'm not sure what ESP means but I do know that SRAM and Shimano use different ratios to move gears. Shimano's is a 2:1 and SRAM is 1:1 the shifters and rear derailleur don't cross (You can't run Shimano shifter with SRAM derailleurs). That combo that you have would work. I've actually been a Shimano person until my bro got a SRAM setup on his new bike. His isn't even the X9 but it still shifts very smoothly. A cheep 1X9 Setup would be

SRAM X5 Rear Derailure ($35)(From Price Point)
SRAM X5 Right Shfiter ($34)(From Universal Cycles (they sell just right or left)
SRAM PG970 Cassette ($27) (From PP)
SRAM PC-971 Chain ($18) (From PP)
of course with Cables and all the odds and ends and a N-Gear Jump stop.

If I were buying the parts I would almost go this route unless I had the extra money. Although the better shifting is nice I'm fine with X5 for the time being. The one BIG thing to check is if you have a single speed specific rear hub. If it can accept a cassette then you should be good to go but if it only accepts a single speed then you need to switch the rear hub. On the website it says "Specialized, cassette, forged alloy, double sealed, ground race, QR, 32h w/ conversion kit for single speed cog" So I'm not sure if it has a SS or 9 Speed Hub? Only way to check would be to take it to the dealer or host a picture for us to see. Good luck and if you have any more questions feel free to PM me or ask on here. I'll try to help as best I can.
 

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If I had to choose, I would probably get the nicest shifter I could afford and skimp on the rear der. I say that because you will feel high quality shifting the most through the shifter and not the vulnerable rear der. I saw speedgoat has the X9 rear shifter for 59.00. The SRAM 970 cassette at pricepoint looks like a good deal, and I would also look at the X7 rear der. It is only a few dollars more then the X5 but is of higher quality.
 

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cougarbait
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SRAM X.9 Rear derailleur, short cage
SRAM X.5 Shifter, or whatever you prefer here (X.7 is identical internally to the X.5)
SRAM PG980 cassette, 11-32T (alloy carrier and within 10 grams of a PG990, 32T since no steep hills in FL)
KMC X.9 SL chain
MRP 1.X chainguide (superior in weight and performance to a jumpstop+bash)
Jagwire Ripcord derailleur kit

there's no reason to get anything less than a X.9 RD unless you are living off Ramen already. The majority of the shifting performance comes from the rear derailleur.

as for cable routing, see m setup below:


The white colored housing. Run it parallel with the rear brake housing (you can zip tie it to the rear brake housing) until the seat-tube. Then, split it off to the drive side and zip tie it to the drive side seat stay.
 

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has training wheels
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
PSpuza said:
SRAM X5 Rear Derailure ($35)(From Price Point)
SRAM X5 Right Shfiter ($34)(From Universal Cycles (they sell just right or left)
SRAM PG970 Cassette ($27) (From PP)
SRAM PC-971 Chain ($18) (From PP)
of course with Cables and all the odds and ends and a N-Gear Jump stop.

If I were buying the parts I would almost go this route unless I had the extra money. Although the better shifting is nice I'm fine with X5 for the time being. The one BIG thing to check is if you have a single speed specific rear hub. If it can accept a cassette then you should be good to go but if it only accepts a single speed then you need to switch the rear hub. On the website it says "Specialized, cassette, forged alloy, double sealed, ground race, QR, 32h w/ conversion kit for single speed cog" So I'm not sure if it has a SS or 9 Speed Hub? Only way to check would be to take it to the dealer or host a picture for us to see. Good luck and if you have any more questions feel free to PM me or ask on here. I'll try to help as best I can.
Where were you guys before I bought?!? You know, these days, people need instant gratification... I couldn't wait, so I went ahead & got all X9 gear last night + ordered the der hanger from Specialized. Here's what I got:

Amazon.com (free shipping--and I had a $50 gift card, thanks sis):
SRAM PG 970 Bicycle Cassette, 11-34T, $26.76
SRAM PC 971 P-Link Bicycle Chain 9-Speed, $20.15
SRAM X.9 Gripshift 9spd right shifter, $29.47

BicycleBuys.com:
SRAM X.9 Rear Derailleur Medium Cage, $69.99

Specialized.com:
right-side frame-specific hanger, effing $37 after tax & shipping!!​

I've since been asked why gripshift; I thought I'd like it. I guess I'll see, I realize that most people use the trigger, and I may just take a look at the shifter & send it back in favor for the X9 trigger.

As for the rear hub, I think I can fit a 9-speed cassette on there. The most telling photo I can take is the one showing the hub spacers (as shown from the bottom, with the bike in the missionary position):



...also, here's a photo of the right-side rear dropout, flipped to rubber-side down, but taken from a strange upward angle:



CHSAD said:
If I had to choose, I would probably get the nicest shifter I could afford and skimp on the rear der. I say that because you will feel high quality shifting the most through the shifter and not the vulnerable rear der. I saw speedgoat has the X9 rear shifter for 59.00.
I'll look at speedgoat if I decide to go with the trigger; any input on trigger vs. gripshift as it applies to this build? I'll do a search, too...

Lambdamaster said:
SRAM X.9 Rear derailleur, short cage
SRAM X.5 Shifter, or whatever you prefer here (X.7 is identical internally to the X.5)
SRAM PG980 cassette, 11-32T (alloy carrier and within 10 grams of a PG990, 32T since no steep hills in FL)
KMC X.9 SL chain
MRP 1.X chainguide (superior in weight and performance to a jumpstop+bash)
Jagwire Ripcord derailleur kit
there's no reason to get anything less than a X.9 RD unless you are living off Ramen already. The majority of the shifting performance comes from the rear derailleur.
Yeah, I had initially decided to go with 11-32T for that reason; however, I went with the 34 because I figured I wouldn't be spending much time there, & if I ever wanted to go that low I would have it available. I have a 16T on the rear now & like that just fine, it just doesn't give me the "top end" I want. As for the short cage, I would have done that but it was an additional $20-$30 and I wasn't sure what I'd gain from it. (quicker shifts?)

I'll look into that MRP part. The Jagwire (like this one?) is a fully-jacketed cable? After I settle on a shifter, my next task is going to be cable routing. I found several solutions, and last night confirmed that I've got a threaded hole in my BB to accept a cable guide of some sort.

Any other tips before I buy more sh*t I don't need? :D
 

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has training wheels
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Lambdamaster said:
Run it parallel with the rear brake housing (you can zip tie it to the rear brake housing) until the seat-tube. Then, split it off to the drive side and zip tie it to the drive side seat stay.
NICE, thanks for the photos. Is there any reason to go this route instead of under the BB? Is the BB typically used because the cable isn't housed at that point?

EDIT: ordered Jagwire Hyper in black. I also noted this morning that my bike has a factory bashguard that's integrated with the right crank; that means that I can't install a typical chain guide like Paul's or the MRP part unless I get new cranks. I could install the single-sided (inboard) piece like the K-something-or-other I saw earlier.
 

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I actually like gripshift.. somewhat, but when you just run one it's hard to find a set of grips that has one shortened for the grip shift and the other one long. (You'd have to buy two sets of lizard skins logos one short and other long to have the same type of grips). Another thing is that if your climbing/descending you may accidentally change gears because it takes up part of your handle. On the upside it looks a lot more simple and clean coming from a SS to 1X9.
If you have full housing, under the BB should just be fine but if it's not then mud can get in there and make shifting harder. Another thing is that you don't have to have a MRP Chain guide although it's nice.

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CH409Z14-N+Gear+Jump+Start+Chain+Deflector.aspx

That would work just fine if you put your chain in the highest cassette ring and set it as close as you can without touching. Redline uses the N Gear Jump Stop on ther 1X9/8's. The 34 tooth cassette is a wise decision since you're only running one chainring in the front you can't just drop it into the granny gear (Unless you get a Hammerschmidt :p).
 

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has training wheels
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I may actually go up to 39 in the front... using a gearing calculator, I figure my current 16 rear & 32 front ratio would be more or less in the center of the range provided by a 11-34 rear cassette with a 39 front. If I can pick up a decent used or new crankset I'll probably do that.

Or maybe I'll just ride it first. :D
 

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Yea it's different when you have 9 to choose from and not 1. :p I saw the pictures of the rear hub and you shouldn't have to replace it. Its just got a spacer so you should be good to go with your parts. The SRAM 11-34 goes from 11t, 13t, 15t, 17t, 20t, 23t, 26t, 30t, and 34t so your SS be a little over the middle of the Cassette. If you don't like the gearing then just throw on a 34 or 36 tooth chainring. But it is your bike so do as you like. I do want to see some finished pictures though.. and they better be quick! Oh and the only tool you may need is a cassette removal tool, you don't really need a chain whip, as wrapping a towel around the cassette works just as well.
 

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has training wheels
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Tools?!? Crap. I have boatloads of general tools, but nothing bicycle-specific.

I guess I can get one at my LBS for my Spec hub? I'll look tonight.

YES, pics will follow the arrival of the parts... hopefully I have everything I need to do it in a night. I have a knack for starting a project only to find out halfway through that I'm missing something--like a cassette removal tool.
 

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Yea a lot of shops would just switch them out for free it takes all of 10 seconds. But sometimes they charge you like $3 bucks it depends on the shop, It's still cheeper than buying the tool.
 

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cougarbait
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yes, that jagwire kit
a short cage X.9 RD is $65 at pricepoint, so it would have been $4.99 cheaper. You get increased tension which means better shifting and less chain slap. also, it has a lower profile which makes it less vulnerable to impacts. it is also lighter.
There is a threaded hole in the BB shell, however, that setup works only if you decide not to run full-length housing, which I think is a bit silly.
 

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has training wheels
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Lambdamaster said:
yes, that jagwire kit
a short cage X.9 RD is $65 at pricepoint, so it would have been $4.99 cheaper. You get increased tension which means better shifting and less chain slap. also, it has a lower profile which makes it less vulnerable to impacts. it is also lighter.
There is a threaded hole in the BB shell, however, that setup works only if you decide not to run full-length housing, which I think is a bit silly.
Yeah, I saw that last night. I think I'm just going to go the full-length housing, top-tube route.

I may check into the X.9 short-cage der. I couldn't verify that it was compatible with this "ESP" shifter, so I didn't even consider it (aside from the fact I didn't see that price first).
 

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cougarbait
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DeltaNu1142 said:
Yeah, I saw that last night. I think I'm just going to go the full-length housing, top-tube route.

I may check into the X.9 short-cage der. I couldn't verify that it was compatible with this "ESP" shifter, so I didn't even consider it (aside from the fact I didn't see that price first).
in case you did not already find out, there is no shifter compatibility differences between derailleurs with different cage sizes.

You should consider investing in a cheap set of tools, and performing work on your bike yourself as it is a very rewarding experience.
http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/14...ools/Sette-Torx-ST-21-Tool-Kit---21-Tools.htm
this will have most of the things you need for any work on a bike.
(in addition to the cassette tool and chain whip, you will also need a chain tool to shorten the chain as it will be far too long stock. I trust you already have cutters, screwdrivers, and a set of metric allen wrenches.)
 
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