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Ride or Die!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone done it? How does it ride? Would you recommend it? I have a 2011 HD 160 that is just too much bike for me that I've been trying to sell. I recently started thinking about converting it to a 140. Just looking for any advice on what the guys that have done it think.
 

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aka dan51
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6,022 Posts
Yody went from 140 to 160 and did a write-up about it. It's in the Ibis forums here somewhere.
It may be the opposite of what you want to do, but there's likely some comparisons between the 2.
You'd need the limbo chips for a 140 and a different shock. Maybe a different fork too if you don't want a slacked out bike.
Care to sell just the frame?
 

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You need a new fork and shock, and limbo chips. The fork will save you about 1lb of weight.

What do you mean by too much bike? bobs too much? too steep a head angle? Have you just tried tuning your suspension for a more cx feel? Try putting the rear shock on propedal and firming up your front shock. You could even get an angleset to steepen the head ankle.
 

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Ride or Die!
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776 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You need a new fork and shock, and limbo chips. The fork will save you about 1lb of weight.

What do you mean by too much bike? bobs too much? too steep a head angle? Have you just tried tuning your suspension for a more cx feel? Try putting the rear shock on propedal and firming up your front shock. You could even get an angleset to steepen the head ankle.
What I mean is I'm not riding the bike to it's potential.
 

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aka greyranger
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507 Posts
I am not sure but could you change the internals of the fork to float internals, set the travel internally to 140 or 150, change the limbos and the shock. That way if you ever have the need for 160 you have everything you need.
 

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www.derbyrims.com
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Yes, I've used both 140mm and 160mm travel, and now back to 140 for the sharper handling for tight and rough singletrack.

If my local trails were all rock everywhere or faster and steeper downhill, I'd use 160 full time. 160 is easier to manual and climb through rocks.

I'm sure I'll be swapping the suspension often for different rides.

Using a Lyrik u-turn which works great with the same coil at 160 and 140, it's 5 minutes to change out the shock to lower or raise suspension, and twist damping adjusters a couple clicks softer for the longer travel.

It feels like two different bikes. Both travel set ups work great.
 

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Yes, I've used both 140mm and 160mm travel, and now back to 140 for the sharper handling for tight and rough singletrack.

If my local trails were all rock everywhere or faster and steeper downhill, I'd use 160 full time. 160 is easier to manual and climb through rocks.

I'm sure I'll be swapping the suspension often for different rides.

Using a Lyrik u-turn which works great with the same coil at 160 and 140, it's 5 minutes to change out the shock to lower or raise suspension, and twist damping adjusters a couple clicks softer for the longer travel.

It feels like two different bikes. Both travel set ups work great.
Derby is running coil shocks front and back and is running 27.5 (650b) tires. So his set up is different. with bigger tires it helps to have a steeper head angle. The latest 29ers are at 71 deg.

Derby, I love your posts, I am thinking about going 140 with 650b.
But you often fail to mention you have non stock coil shocks and larger wheels on your bike. It's a lot of variables to take into account.
 
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